Pete-B

Thanks SM25, do I keep the tube immersed in fluid whilst pumping the old out and refilling?

Hi, I would appreciate it if someone could run through the best procedure for a numpty on how to drain and refill the brakes on my Roadsport. Thanks in advance.

I don't think you should accept TADTS as an end all and be all, Iv'e got the same gearbox and there's no rattle at all. If it were mine I would treat it as a winter project and change the box then perhaps? I'm sure if there were any club members in your area they would be only to pleased to give you a hand.

Had my Sigma 150 MOTd yesterday. The guy who did it was Steve Hall who runs a garage locally and who also races MGs. He's a great bloke who understands our cars and is also very helpful. On the first go the car failed it's emissions test but Steve said don't worry and got me to run the car and to get the engine a lot hotter then explained it was important to keep the revs steady between 2500 and 3000 on the fast idle test otherwise you get a false reading. Anyhow it went through the second time with no problem but he said the engine was running very weak and would possibly benefit from a rolling road session. He showed me on the emission test result sheet that the CO (%vol) should read somewhere under 0.20 mine read 0.00%, and looking at last years results it was then 0.13%. Now, being a numpty on such things and not understanding what all this means does this create a problem or is it easily solved, I should be going over to CC Midlands in near future, but I do remember him saying dont worry to much for normal road use it will be more noticable when you get into the higher rev band. Many thanks if anyone can explain alll this in layman terms.

Or even the new V8 Caterham 7 being developed whilst we speak, with 600 BHP and a proposed price of £20000.

I have, surplus to my requirements, a set of high quality speakers for sale. One Aegos Evo Acoustic Energy centre speaker in black ash. Two Aegos Acoustic Energy rear speakers in black ash. These can be shelf mounted or wall mounted and come with wall brackets. And one REL Acoustic Quake sub woofer in Teak. This is capable of shaking the very foundations if you want it to (good for not very nice neigbours or if someone has outstayed their welcome). It is of course very adjustable with low level input volume control, high level input volume control depending on whether you use phono or Neutric input. It also has Roll off control to adjust and set the upper frequency of the sub base system. A four position mode switch one for in phase and using the internal filter/roll off. Two for in phase but bypassing the internal filter/roll off and Three and Four as one and two but 180 degrees out of phase. There's also a Slam/Depth control which changes the characteristics of the filter/roll off. Depth mode 20-100 Hz. Slam mode bass emphasized 50-150 Hz. This is all quoted from the book, I tend to twiddle the knobs until it sounds right but the book does explain how to set it up in layman terms to your own individual choice and requirements. All the speakers are in excellent condition and totally unmarked and I still have the original boxes. When I bought them the centre speaker cost me just over £130 the rear speakers £110 and the REL subwoofer £310 in total just over £550, I'm pretty sure we still have the receipts somewhere. Being a bit of a numpty where PCs are concerned I wouldn't know how to upload (if that's what they call it) photo's of the speakers but I would be happy to send them to anyone who is interested. I'm looking for £100 for the set of four with buyer collecting!

My son and his partner have just moved into a grade 2 listed farmhouse. The kitchen has a beautiful genuine oil fired Aga cooker, which, unfortunately, doesn't fit in with their new plans and designs and so is regrettably for sale. It's cream with chrome lids and has a double oven. It's been valued and described by the local AGA dealership as roughly 6 or 7 years old (a baby in other words) and worth between £2500 and £2750, will accept £2000 with buyer collecting. A new one exactly the same as this model would be circa £7500.00 The Aga is still connected and can currently be viewed working until the flue is removed shortly. I'd be happy to send photo's showing said cooker in situ to anyone who’s interested.

Wot he said

Thanks Fil, yes they are Ford Platinum tipped!

Need to replace the Ford plugs on my Sigma 150 do'es anyone know what the gap should be, thanks.

Sigma 150

Plain washers and locknuts.

I know this as been mentioned before but thought it would be an idea to bring it up again. Whenever I service the car and sometimes in between I always check the engine mounting bolts for Tightness. I torqued them up last October to the correct amount ie 34Nm but when I started doing this years service I found one bolt quite loose. So I guess it's worth the warning, always check your nuts (ouch) otherwise it could be painful to the pocket.

Yea you're right mate, different sensor,sorry!

Rob, Nine times out of ten the sensor just needs a clean and gap adjustment. Wipe between the contacts and reset the gap to 1 - 1.5mm. Whilst the wheel is off switch the ignition on and spin the drum and the lttle sensor light should come on each time the castalations pass under it.

Macca, I had the same problem, mind you at that time there were various map updates as well but in the end Brett at CC Midlands sorted it and now it runs a dream. Mine also had the automatic cam belt adjuster which Brett changed to a manual one. If it were me I wouldn't play with it, It should run OK out of the box, it's not your fault if it doesn't. In my case CC picked mine up from home free of charge, about a fifty mile journey for them and I collected when they'd sorted it. Good luck, by the way, the problem with mine was indeed throttle body adjustment.

Any news about this diff yet?

I've just received this from Eward Roller who's the tech man at Powervamp;- Could I suggest that you add to the existing thread on the forum stating that you have spoken to myself and I have agreed that you can cut and paste the following… “The Powervamp range of racing batteries have different characteristics to a conventional ‘wet’ battery, and these need to be catered for to maximum your batteries longevity. The PVR batteries are of a much lower amp/hour capacity, which basically means that any load or drain on the battery whilst the engine is switched off, (ie. the alternator is not putting power back into the battery), will flatten it more quickly, which can lead to, if undetected, a ‘deep discharge failure which is unrecoverable. The fitting of a ‘kill’ switch in the positive line to the battery will isolate the battery when not in use and also act as an immobiliser once the key has been removed. This relatively inexpensive modification could save you the cost of a new battery and is recommended where at all possible.” Obviously, if you or any of the other forum members wish to ask any further questions I would be only too happy to answer them.

I put my name dowm earlier in the year to have the option of having the BMW diff fitted at the special prices if I wanted to. I've got a Sigma 150 Roadsport which I use for road only, I had my present Sierra open diff rebuilt by Phil at Road and Race last year and it's certainly quieter than it was, but as Phil said, " due to the very nature of the car, how they are built and the power to weight ratio it's never going to be silent so it's a case of learning to live with it". So what is the general consensus of the new diff, there must be quite a few people running with them now, are they quiet, are they just as bad, or somewhere in between or should I just stick with the devil I know?

Having got a Powervamp I've obviously got the same problems with parasitic loads but being a complete dumbo where car electrics are concerned theres no way I'm going to let myself loose on the wiring by trying to fit a battery master switch. Someone in search suggested the easy way is to use a quick fit battery cut out switch - Amazon do them for few pounds - but they all seem to come with post fitting, so how does one get over that with Powervamp screw type fitting?

What sort of cost Jason?

Anyone got any idea what a Powerspeed 4-2-1 or alternative exhaust would cost for a 150 Sigma and what difference to performance it would make? Edited by - Pete-B on 28 May 2011 19:27:41 Edited by - Pete-B on 28 May 2011 19:31:38

Enter "intercome purchase" in chit chat search in last 3 months and this should answer all your questions. By the way for my twopennies worth go Starcom, mine is brilliant but I'm sure someone will be along saying the same about Autocom, good luck. Edited by - Pete-B on 13 May 2011 14:02:36

Once you've fitted the bullet connectors the wire from the screen should be long enough to reach the other connector. I find I can get get my fingers behind the knee panels to fish the wire out. Don't forget to fit the little rubber grommet on the screen wire before you fit the bullet connector!

Sorry, another numpty question! I take it I would need to drain the system first before fitting the T piece? Or, as I don't have a problem at the moment would it be best to buy one and fit it when it becomes necessary?