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prs

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Everything posted by prs

  1. And there will be another one next Saturday 😬
  2. So how was the box performing before you changed the oil? If it were me refill and monitor its performance
  3. June 2006 Low Flying has got Paul's Bump Steer article
  4. Sure did Mark, catch you on the Chippy run. Phil
  5. Thats a different setup to the S1, looking at that photo if it were me I would undo the one oil pipe with a container ready for the oil leakage and then plug the openings, then continue with the job good luck
  6. Have changed all the wishbone bushes on SWMBO S1, you should be able to undo the bolts without them fouling on anything. The oil filter housing is nowhere near the upper wishbone mounts? Any pics/ Edited by - prs on 1 Apr 2011 16:42:08 Edited by - prs on 1 Apr 2011 18:12:55
  7. Same as Spiderlane, drove it for 15mins to get the oil fully up to temp and then gave it the beans. I used Millers running in oil. 230BHP K and it doesn't use oil
  8. That does sound rich to me, my 230bhp 1.8k easily returns 30mpg when autoroute cruising in France. A road driving is about 25-27mpg. Had mine mapped by Dave Walker.
  9. The oil will dilute it away without any issues, its designed to do this and will not harm your engine.
  10. I also had these fitted but when I rebushed the whole rear end last year I left them out. Can't feel any difference and nothing is obviously wearing, as you say can't really see the point.
  11. Simon, just been posted via Royal Mail
  12. prs

    Polishing Webers

    Have seen the very same casing, great finish. See, keeping up with you 7WOTW
  13. Well at least that 'old retired bu99er' was able to keep up you 😬, must catch up with you both soon
  14. My wifes daily driver is a non VVC S1, shes done well over 50k proper driven miles in it and never had any problems, gets 44mpg, never uses oil, tyres give 20k plus, she loves it and I service it! Great car.
  15. I've got some 100mm Carbon Fibre ones, these will fit inside the bonnet with a suitable filter. Can email pics if you like Phil
  16. I,ve got 15" R1R's and have now done just over 3.5k on them. I used to have 13"MB's with 888's but got fed up with the poor mileage. These tyres compare very favourably with the 888, the big advantage is in the wet - awesome! I drove through France last summer from Le Havre to Bergerac in torrential rain all the way and it was possible to cruise at 75 on the autoroute and that was with standing water, had I been on 888's then no way. They grip in the dry the same as 888's but I only use my car for road use, how they would be on track i don't know. They also grip from cold unlike 888's. The wear rating is 140 compared to 100 for the 888. They also have 6.5mm of tread compared to 5mm with the 888. My rears have now got 5.5mm tread left, the fronts have got 6.2mm. BTW my power output is 230. Basically very pleased and I doubt I would go back to 13" unless they bring out the R1R in that size.
  17. K series cam seals should always be replaced dry
  18. Put a jack under the gearbox and remove the gearbox mounting. Then partially undo all the engine to gearbox bolts, don't forget the two sump bolts assuming this is a K. You should then be able to move the box back slightly and hopefully enough to remove your knackered scewdriver. If it works resist the temptation to throw it across the garage, chances are it will bounce back onto your car
  19. I used Millers running in oil on my 230bhp K. Got everything up to temp and then gave it the beans. Great engine now and it uses approx half litre every 1500mls. Previous rebuilds I've used mineral oil but oil consumption not so good. The Millers is specifically designed to prevent bore glazing.
  20. I've got a pair of polished alloy stanchions
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