Jetto

I’m looking to buy a new Radtec radiator for my recent Duratec converted car. I’m looking at a 60mm core rad with larger 11” fan. The fan switch offered on this by Radtec is an 86-76 temp range however this seems low to me? Elsewhere on their website they also offer switches with ranges 82-88, 88-74 and 92-82. Opinions sought for fan switch choice please…

Hi Andy, my car is meant to be run on the dyno next week but once I get it back I’ll still have some prep to do then MOT it. Just saw the other post about a couple moving to class 4 from 5 which is a shame for the numbers in class 5. I’ve spent too much money on my engine to just run it detuned for class 4 though 🙁

Just put my entry in. Couple of queries: My car isn't quite finished yet (probably be ready a few rounds in to the season), I've applied for Class 5 and am hoping the new engine makes 250bhp on the dyno which I put on the application. Can I update the power in my profile once I've got the results? Also I put down on the application form that I'm running Toyo R888 tyres. I assume I can update this later on if I change tyre? Thanks, Oliver

Hi I’ll take these please. Thanks, Oli

Fuel system query - my car was originally carburetted and converted to fuel injection throttle bodies by previous owner. A swirl pot with lift pump, separate high pressure pump and pressure regulator setup was installed and retained the original carb fuel tank modified for a return line. As part of my rebuild I’ve spent a healthy sum of money on new AN hoses and fittings, new high pressure pump and new swirl pot to rebuild the setup as it was. Questions: 1) I’m now trying to decide whether I should ditch the swirl pot setup above and fork out strong money for a new fuel injected tank with an in tank pump to simplify to just one feed line? And therefore get rid of swirl pot, lift pump, hp pump, pressure regulator and the multiple hoses. This option is about £1500 minus some money I might get back for selling the old bits but would probably be more reliable setup. 2) Or if I keep it as is I would want to buy a new tank anyway because the one I have has seen better days. I would have to buy a carb tank as per the photo. This option would be about £300 for the new tank. Is there a reason the carb tanks don’t have the spigot to attach a filler neck overflow pipe like the injection tanks do? Advice welcomed on what route to take.

Just had my original Ford rears refurbished by Bigg Red, was around £150

Yeah I've got the spacers on the stub axles on both sides. I've also got a single washer between the steering arm and the upright to take up the gap where they bolt to one another which I believe is standard and was like that before I took it apart

New front brake discs and hub upgrade kit installed however my LH track rod end rubber boot contacts the disc to the point that it’s hard to rotate backwards. RH side is very close but at least has paper thin clearance. Anyone experienced this and have ideas on how to overcome the LH side clash? The old discs that came off were very worn so I guess that’s why I never noticed the issue before. Cheers ​​​​​

I’ve taken my Girling brake master cylinders apart to inspect and rebuild with new seal kits. The bores have a few glazed spots that I’d ideally give a light hone to clean up however I can’t find a honing tool for sale that goes less than 18mm diameter. My master cylinders are 0.625” (15.9mm) and 0.7” (17.8mm). Any one know of one that’ll go down to that size? Secondly my M/C pistons have some surface finish marring. They’re still smooth to the touch and are not scored. Reckon they’ll be ok to re-use? Thanks

Hi Rob, I'll buy your brackets please if still available. Will need postage adding if you can message me payment details please? Thanks, Oliver

Evening, what's the consensus on brake pad specs for a 260bhp Vauxhall XE S3 Caterham used predominately for hillclimbs/sprints. It will however remain road legal with the occasional track day. I think it's got Performance Friction PF01 pads currently but I'm renewing discs all round as part of a refresh so need new pads. I've not driven it in anger prior to the refresh so I haven't got a baseline to go from. Front calipers are the old spec 4 pot AP parts with vented discs, rears are standard sierra calipers with solid discs. Thanks

Update, with the knowledge that the joints are spring loaded I used the bearing carrier fixings to slowly and equally wind the bearing carriers up to the ear. They have mated up with some effort but I'm slightly conscious that there is now no more spring loaded play in the driveshafts, essentially they seem to be compressed to maximum. Is it normal to take up all the spring compression in the joints when fitting? The driveshafts seem to turn ok when the prop is rotated by hand with no clunks so it's probably ok. ChrisC I would have liked to have refurbished the tin can driveshafts however I couldn't find any replacement tin cans as they have been discontinued. As far as I'm aware they need to be cut off to refurbish. If I stumble across some I'll refurbish them and keep as spares.

SM25T, ok thanks for that info, sounds like that could be the fallback plan. I assume my rear track width would be increased by use of those spacers? Do they make them to match the camber of the current ears fitted?

JP, I too had the older tin can driveshafts and these new ones are the tripode type. Super frustrating having just spent £700 on them. They're seated fully as far as I can see. I trialled my old shafts and they seem fine

Mine's a Sierra diff with a TranX plated LSD just rebuilt