Joe 90
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Everything posted by Joe 90
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If you look at this photo here you can see the factory original arrangement for a 1988 chassis. Is yours different? SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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If it's beautiful to drive, then it isn't too racy. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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I think you might have a poor electrical connection to the battery. It would definitely give these symptoms. You can test it by measuring the voltage drop between the battery terminals and a load (such as the heated windscreen), remembering to test both live and chassis connections. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Nope, that's how they are supposed to go. The tunnel is double skinned and you need to cut through the top skin only. The heater draws in air from the space above the tunnel and blows it into the footwells. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Or the 4 speed box? SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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9 times out of 10 it will be stuck because there's a foreign object in it. If so, you may want to consider where it came from. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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It's a reasonable DIY proposition, but I would do it in conjuction with an overhaul kit. IIRC you need some small pin punches and new bolts for the butterflies. The usual solution is to untwist the shaft though. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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As you've described it, even healthy cylinders would give less pressure due to seal friction. I don't know of anywhere that you can reliably get repair kits from as I think they went obsolete some years ago ☹️ SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Happened to me. Caterham said it was production tolerances, but it seems too common. I packed it up until everything fitted again. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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You can't escape the basics. If the pedal slowly goes to the floor then there are only two possibilities, a leak or a knackered master cylinder. If you're really sure there's no leak, then the master is SNAFU. If the rears lock before the fronts, then your brake balance is wrong. This seems to be quite common with the standard rear disks, and can be solved by a pad change or a brake bias valve. I would solve the pedal issue first though. Don't bother with bores, IDs etc. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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The caterham side exhaust is probably your best bet. Unfortunately they've put the prices up because they're not getting the volume discounts any more. If you go for the whole 4 into 1 side exit setup the pros are: Known system, good for resale. Significantly better power, in the region of 10 bhp, which makes it really good value for money. Cons are: Cutting a bigger hole in the sideskins. If, like me, you want a really small tight hole it can take a long time. The carbs may need re-jetting. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Well done SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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I've managed it successfully using a large vice. As the jaws are parallel, there's not much danger of wedging. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Vaseline for electrics SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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4.5% CO at idle is good to aim for. There's not usually much you can do about HCs. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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The headlight brackets are held by a couple of pinch bolts. These sometimes don't grip tightly enough, and I've resorted to a couple of packing pieces. You can also swap the brackets for later ones which have an extra support which picks up on the shock absorber top bolt. As for the vibration, they all do that sir. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Hmmm. Link here I wonder if anything will come of it? SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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I think that's the bit of pipe that replaces the cat. They don't want to release too much power, because then everyone will need one. The rationale is that racing burns out cats, so you might as well remove it for racing and replace it for MOT. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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You don't need to replace the fluid. If you screw the switch in loosely a gentle push on the brake pedal will force any air out. It's best done with two people because you want to do it up tight at that point, and you will want to catch the excess fluid. I really hate getting brake fluid everywhere SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Or you could just replace the switch every 20 years. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Must admit to favouring wet cells, as they are more rugged and forgiving. BMW R100 bike battery works for me, and has done for over ten years now. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Less ignition advance? SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Graeme, YHM SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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You can still get the battery out with the engine in-situ, but it's a bit of a fiddle. The next time mine goes I'm going to put it behind the passenger seat to get a more rearward weight bias. I put in a box for a toolkit, which I don't bother with, and I just hope it will go past the chassis tubes. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan
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Judging how many times to pump the accelerator requires some practice. Have you got a mechanical fuel pump, and is there any fuel in the carburettor float chambers. Assuming there is, I would give it 5 full strokes on the accelerator before cranking it. If it doesn't start after about 10 secs of cranking, or coughs and dies, I would give it a couple more pumps. It's then a matter of experience to decide whether it's flooded or not. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan