Nigel Fox

That's great if alls well, I expect somebody can explain it but I'm not sure I can!

Well that might support theory of an alternator fault. How about connecting the meter to the non live side of the switch, start it up and see if you have volts there when you switch off.

Chris, With the engine not running, take the wires off the switch and check the voltage to earth. Obviously one side comes from the battery, is there something live on the other terminal. There could be a back feed from an unswitched live supply.

I should add that faulty toggle switches usually have a change in feel when operated. A meter across the switch terminals will soon tell you.

Hi Chris, I've had a number of failures of toggle switches used for the ignition. I've just fitted a new 40 amp one from demon tweeks. i once fitted a fan override switch which I later discovered back fed the ignition switch, couldn't stop the engine when fan override was activated. Needed a minor circuit redesign. Have you fitted any accessories? Mine car is of an age that doesn't have a relay in the ignition circuits, I'm not sure about yours but it must be a similar age.

Unusual tyre wear.

There is no plan. Most L7 members park in the field on the right after the building containing the toilets. i always park on the right of the access road before the toilets, the grass is shorter and your car can be on tarmac. the car park in front of the golf centre is reserved for single seaters. I'm car 47 class 2B by the way. Bring plenty of petrol. See you there.

I think the car is leaning too heavily on the front tyres on the predominantly right turning courses. (I.e. Understeering). If it was just a camber issue you might expect the rear tyre to be showing similar symptoms.

I would think that you have quite a bit of understeer in some conditions. I would try increasing the rear ride height. My tyres are noticeably cleaner since Simon drove the car at Curborough and adjusted the dampers. I'd give him a call too.

Chris, your compressions may well be higher if you hold the throttle open when conducting the tests. the difference between front and rear cylinder pairs may be the throttles are not quite balanced at tickover. i think garages have a check for combustion products in coolant. good luck.

Redline would be my first place to call.

I have had a machine mart one for many years, I keep it in my trailer for use at events and it's always been good. i bought another similar jack on eBay for use at home and it's poor quality all over. I'm not saying all eBay ones are bad, but.....

Modern chargers seem to contain electronics that prevent them charging very flat batteries. i would connect it to a vehicle battery via jump leads, then start the engine and charge it from the alternator.

The word is, that the business that runs 3 Sisters has gone into administration.

The Longton events on 1st and 2nd April currently only have 35 entries. They are definitely going ahead so if anyone fancies some extra practice, you should get plenty of track time. You would need to join the Longton club (£15), but will benefit from discounted entries. In fact any Lotus 7 member doing more than two of the four Longton events in this years championship would save money by joining Longton club. All details on their website.

It's used as carper underlay, any carpet supplier will have it by the mile.

Have you got LED bulbs in the side lights or brake lights? If so try some tungstens and see if it's the same.

Someone told be last night that Loton Park has been resurfaced.

I would find out what spring rates you have, then discuss the issue with Simon Rogers at Meteor Motorsport. Meteor are a Nitron agent and service centre as well as being a centre of expertise.

Good luck with the op Matt.

Try Fenner drives.

Atlas axle is from a Capri, its recognisable by the pigs nose casting and the access cover on the back of the axle. Quite a lot heavier than as English but the axle of choice for most Escort rally cars. Many rally car preparers an F2 stock car racers do a conversion do disc brakes ar a price. For a diy approach, choose some suitable calipers, mine are Peugeot 106/205. Early Fiesta top hat front discs. Make up caliper brackets, these can weld on, or bolt to the old backplate mounting points. If I remember correctly you need to retain the wheelbearings with some spacers. The flanges of the halfshafts need facing up in a lathe to provide a flat mounting for the discs. Its all pretty simple stuff. i fitted a balance valve in the rear circuit, but with 4 pot front brakes I have it wound fully off. The drive flange on my diff is Anglia which is smaller than Escort.

Eli, I think my axle brace is from Arch, it is made from flat steel plate welded horizontally across the back of the axle. I presume this is stop the axle casing bending under the load from the A frame mounting under the diff.

I think the perception that English axles are only good for 160 up comes from use in rally cars where the cars are a lot heavier and jumps and rocks give greater loadings. I've used an lsd equipped English axle with standard half shafts for around 15years with a 190 up Zetec, mainly for sprints and hill climbs. The only failure was in 2007 when I broke a half shaft whilst doing doughnuts. I don't do that anymore! I've recently upgraded to 250 bhp and haven't broken anything yet, touch wood. If I was speccing a new axle, I'd go for atlas splined side gears in the diff, and then group 1 atlas half shafts.

It's tight and twisty, Lots of corners, quite a few places where the Armco is close. you normally get lots of runs. I think there is video on the Longton and District web site.