Ian Mackenzie

Just had a further look, here is what I have. But it comes with a health warning - some are not absolutes, but they can be easily confirmed with a test meter back to the ECU pin out using the above diagram. 1 = ecu 2 = mfru 3 = to the purple +12V feed on the main loom? 5a = ECU Temp 4 & 6b = look like earths from the wiring diagram I have 6a = Lambda 7&9 = look like oil and water temp for the STACK 10 = Could be the fan relay control – if so it should go to pin 33 on ECU plug 11 = Crank sensor 12 = Coil 14 = Loom plug (Grey) 15 = Manifold Air Temp Sender 17 = Alternator 18 = Alternator 19 = Oil pressure (STACK Sensor) 58 = mfru 13 Injectors (last on the line should be No1) 16 = TPS

Here is the wiring for your loom, it can be found here: https://www.lotus7.club/sites/default/files/images/Docs/Guides/73414%20Engine%20Harness%20K-seriesR3_4_5.pdf Cheers Ian

Brake fluid does have a different smell to oil... While not the best practice for your hands or the ultimate test....if there is enough to get some on your fingers and rub them together, oil will be smooth down to the last drop, with brake fluid you'll have some friction.... With that amount of fluid I'd expect to be able to find it at the union if it is brake fluid, run a dry finger past each joint and check your finger after each pass. I've also used toilet roll round unions to check for leaks if that helps.... Cheers Ian

It may be worth a check, but I think some parts are common with the elise rack?

green purple from the wiring diagrams I've seen is the rear brake light. Cheers Ian

I have a refurbished rear brake calliper (No hanger) which I never fitted..... (Turned out there was nothing wrong with my existing caliper and it was a sticky cable). Just in case anyone is looking for one, £65 and it is yours...

When I did my Duratec conversion, I ended up machining the bell housing to get the correct clearances as I had non standard set up. When the clutch wears the finger will move outwards, so ideally you want around 1mm (2mm max) free in the slave before it hits the fingers at full compression. That was the measurements I went with..... Stuart no doubt will be able to provide further advice. Cheers Ian

Don't know the reason for the change, but I agree, if it worked before...it will work again...I'd stick with a like for like replacement for simplicity Cheers Ian

Interesting.....

I feel the need for a couple of pics of Garth's set up.....

Here we are: http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/slave-cylinder-for-duratec-engine-to-ford-gearbox-hydraulic-clutch.html Hope this helps.....

Hi Garth I've just seen this picture, you need to look at a ford mondeo clutch slave cylinder, there are 2 different sizes (circa 10mm as you’ve just discovered, one for the 2l and then there is the one for the V6). I’ll have a look at my notes when I did the Duratec conversion as I used one of these…. Cheers Ian

Hi Garth There will only be around 10mm travel or less to release the clutch with the slave. So if the new one was 10mm longer is will of been the same as the old one at full stroke, only with no pressure. Most likely is the new one was now fully compressed and jammed with no mechanical movement left, hence the firm pedal. The other thing to note is the concentric slaves do not like being compressed before the are installed as you can damage the seals. Cheers Ian

If it is a Titan, which it should be for that year it would be a plate diff, so if you lock the prop shaft and try and spin one wheel, the other will go in the opposite direction as previously started, however.... - If is is an LSD there will be resistance in spinning the wheel (unless the LSD is in bad need of a service and there is no pre load....) - If it is open then there will be very little / no resistance in turning the wheel. RE oil, here are the details here for Titan diffs: http://www.titan.uk.net/products/details/bmw-limited-slip-diff I hope this helps Cheers Ian P.S Looking through the casing the view will be the same as the ZF. Here is a pic of my Ford Titan, though you can't see through bearing......

The easy way to check is to look at the valve clearances, for 1444 cams they are: 0.25mm inlet 0.30mm exhaust If they were hydraulic they should be 0mm. I'm still sure they need to be solid lifters... Oily is the man to confirm this. Cheers

My understanding is that 1444 cams should have solid cam followers, are you sure yours are hydraulic?

Hi there The normal recommendation for maximum duty cycle is normally around 80%, max at 85%. If the duty cycle was at 100% this would mean the injector would be open 100% of the time. cheers Ian

I've used these fefore, stock on the inside of the bulkheaqd near the furebox https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-2-Way-Car-Charger-Cigarette-Lighter-Power-Socket-Adapter-Dual-2-USB-Port-UK/222424553692?epid=2216904612&hash=item33c98958dc:g:FrgAAOSwmqZazus1 Cheers Ian

Hi there As the title now says, all sorted, thanks for looking. I'm after a favour all in the name of a good cause. I'm taking passenger rides at the Supercar event at Rockingham for the Childrens Trust on the weekend of the 7th July. I need a trailer to take my car to the event and back and I was hoping to borrow a trailer to save the cost of hiring one. If anyone is able to loan me a trailer I'd be very grateful and I would obviously look after it well! I'm based in Oxfordshire if that helps. Many thanks in advance! Cheers Ian

Sounds like an earthing issue somewhere.... I'd double check all the wiring that you've touched as discussed, it may also be worth checking the voltage regulator for your instruments you have one fitted, given some of the issues with your gauges... Cheers Ian

I had a Westfield with a Fireblade engine and it was a visual inspection. There are a couple of key point in the current manual ( https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/mot-inspection-manual-for-class-3-4-5-and-7-vehicles) - Q plated vehicles are to be treated as being first used before 1 August 1975 for emissions purposes. Therefor there is no emissions requirement. (see here: https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/m4s07000301.htm) - "Regulations do not require vehicles to achieve CO or HC readings below the original capability of the engine when new. A very few vehicles may never have been able to meet the MOT limits. Where a vehicle owner claims that this is the case, and has sound supporting evidence (e.g. a letter from the vehicle manufacturer), the vehicle should be considered exempt from the CO and HC emission requirements.If the owner does not have sound supporting evidence, a Test Certificate should be refused." (see here: https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/m4s07000304.htm ) The new manual has similar wording post 19th May on page 105. In the above you need proof of the engine age, I believe a quick search on the internet will help. I know that Honda UK have issued letters before. I'm assuming your blade engine is a 998 (I meant 893, oops!) which will be pre 1995 and therefor exempt from emissions. So in short currently you are exempt both pre and post 20th May, but you may need proof of your engine age for the tester.....and a copy of the appropriate page of the testing manual to help persuade the tester, they will also have access to the manual at the garage....I went through all this with another car..... I hope this helps. Cheers Ian P.S. I managed to get a ZX9R on carbs through a BET test with a CAT at an SVA Test, but that is another story....

So now that it is external, what are the differences in temperature?

Yes, I've dealt with Jon as well and I can recommend him....

Following on from Jim's point... I have a high ratio pedal and uprated master cylinder and the push-rod did fowl the bulkhead, so it is worth checking that the master cylinder push-rod is not rubbing. There is a shim that can be inserted to prevent this....https://caterhamparts.co.uk/fittings/6304-high-effort-brake-pedal-shim.html?search_query=shim&results=28 This may be the case as well for you if you have the high ratio pedal. In the short term you could pack with a washer and test... Once this is OK, then reset the rear caliper.... Hope this helps...

I've previously bought quite a few fittings from here: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/torquesuk inc AN fittings and hose. Cheers Ian