Ian Mackenzie

Yes, I hadn't accounted for the cams or the injectors.....so CC is quite reasonable.....

I got 210hp out of my Duratec with stock internals and a standard Caterham Exhaust. The changes made were good throttle bodies and new ECU and mapping... By the time you buy throttle bodies you'll pay out around £1000, another £600 for an unlocked MBE ecu, Then you'll need a session on the rolling road..... So the home upgrade path will be circa £2,000....With that in mind unless your lucky with second hand parts then the CC option is not far off cost wise and it's a factory upgrade which would help with any resale value nad warranty. Cheers Ian

And here: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/d-plug-wire-connector-for-rocker-switch-rs-dplug

I used a colourtune on a BEC with a ZX9R and I got it through the SVA so it worked for me. Cheers Ian

Having seen this car as well, I have to say it is a stunning car and immaculate..... It will make the next owner very happy!

If John wants the wing stays I'll take the wings. Cheers Ian

Hi Stu Thanks for the update, the cams are currently out the engine as I'm re-shimming the followers as a couple were out of spec..... (On hold due to cold weather....) I've built a couple of ECUs before (Megasquirt II and III) which have run a Duratec and a K Series, so this is my first time with the Emerald. The last K series I did all the mapping myself (It ran well, though a session on the rolling road would have improved things further), I also did some porting and fitted some QED 375HK cams and got the car through the emissions with my map, all be it at the local MOT station with my laptop to do some final tuning.....though that was with a wideband sensor, which was a lot better than trying to use the narrowband sensor..... Once the engine is back together and the weather is a little warmer I'll have a look at the emissions....I may invest in a wideband sensor to get a better range of readings.... Thanks Ian

Great, many thanks. Just need to get the shims sorted....too cold for the garage so things on hold...must be going soft!

Yes, I've got an emerald K3, I was more concerned with the overlap in the cams and how much raw fuel would be pulled through to the exhaust.

My car is not road registered, but I am looking at putting it through the IVA, so it will need to pass the BET test (Basically the MOT emissions test for engines with catalytic converters). My engine started off life as a stock R400 with roller barrels, the head now has bigger valves and 1444 cams. My question is... will I be able to pass the BET test with 1444 cams ? Thanks Ian

Yes I would use the same place as RJ to include the override. My R400 had the same wiring as the video as well... Cheers Ian

Thin part to the rear for me too! Cheers Ian

For the main power feed to the fan I'd use 30amp (My own fan draws over 20 amps but it is a larger unit) and the relay coil wont take much at all so 3amp will be fine. Cheers Ian

Yes that is the one, this is also the fuse for the fan on this block. When you switch on the fan from the dash, can you check that the relay is switching....this is a big clue! If you can't decide if it is switching. With the fan off, pull out the relay out then try and switch the fan on with the dash switch, if no longer switches on then we should be a couple of steps away from hopefully fixing your problem.... Here is what the wiring should look like:

Hi there I just had a look at this thread.... I've got a wring diagram for the r300-500k, PM me your email address and I can email it over. The main thing is that it confirms the pin out of the ECU, but other are correct for the MBE, pin 33 in the fan control, this works by switching to earth, it is not a power supply and needs to switch a relay to earth. My R400 had a relay mounted on the bulkhead to control the fan. If the fan was being controlled by the ECU it must drive a relay, if someone has wired for the ECU to switch the fan directly to earth it is more than likely that the switching transistor will have blown in the ECU and will need replaced. If you have a meter test the continuity to see where pin 33 goes to, does it go directly to the dash switch (this may OK), if it goes directly to the fan and the other side of the fan has +12 with the ignition on (this is wrong and it will have blown the transistor). Regarding the senders in the picture in the thread, once send is the ECU and the other is for the STACK dash. I hope this helps. Cheers Ian

Spotted last night at the bottom of Headley Way at the petrol station...

Car park test No2....donuts.... 1/2 donut = no LSD* Full donut = LSD * Note even some torque biasing diffs can still spin the inside wheel if the traction is lost completely on the inside wheel. So an AP Suretrac as fitted to some Caterhams will behave like an open diff with the car jacked up...

I'd estimate £100-200 from a power coaters, similar from a paint shop......someone who has done this will give you a more accurate guide.... If sending away to be done I'd go for powder coating... Cheers Ian

I've painted a few cages, I agree with Jonathan 90% is in the prep. If you want a smooth finish you'll need to rub back any stone chips etc, if you can feel a chip by hand, you'll generally see still see it once painted. Any big rubbing then use 600 grit then smooth off with 800 grit for the roll bar to give a key to the paint. Then undercoat and top coat. If you then want to flatten the paint T-Cut scratch remover can be used as a rubbing compound which is easily available. Cheers Ian

Some nice data here of a couple of runs for comparison: https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=208938 Cheers Ian

Your chassis will be bronze welded if it is an imperial chassis, if so clean all the bronze weld off before welding, unless you were bronze welding it back on.... Cheers Ian

I've got this one https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ctj1250ab-1-25-tonne-aluminium-racing-j/ It fits OK under my R400 K which is still in a full race set up and sitting very low..... Cheers Ian

Hi Gary If I can take both parts, the main ARB and the blade end. Thanks Ian

Hi there I'd be interested in the Freestyle ARB please. Thanks Ian

Hi Mark I had the same coil set up on my Duratec... Cylinders 2 and 3 do seam to corespondent with the ignition coil management given the testing done. The supply is +12V is common to both coils so that must be OK, the ECU switches to earth, not knowing the ECU wiring, I'm assuming that pins 18 and 16 control the two coils switching to earth. If this is the case then I'd expect the miss fire to move to cylinders 1 and 4 if it was a coil driver fault.... though I appreciate that this can't be replicated without another session on the rolling road.... If I take the engineering point of view that there are no coincidences, i.e. the probability of a coils driver fault appearing at exactly the same time as some engine work being low (but not improbable and it could still be a freak coincidence), then the fault would be as a result of some work that has been done as part of the engine change....i.e. what wiring was disturbed? As mentioned above a weak spark may become more apparent under higher load or temperatures..... Were any other setting changed on the rolling road session such as the coil dwell (from memory this is around 3ms but I'd need to check, longer periods can overheat the coil and lead to breakdown) or any temperature corrections? The ECU may also run voltage corrections as well for both injector times and dwell this is may be another factor to consider....but I'd expect this to be across all cylinders.... Sorry nothing definitive here are there are many variations that could cause this...but I'd stay with the basics and what has been changed...It could have been as simple as a bad connection at the ECU if the wiring has been disturbed.....fingers crossed... Cheers Ian