Ferrino

is this the pre-preg ac?

I worked out that the piston area difference between the standard Triumph 2-pots and the HiSpec Ultralite 4-pots was diddly-squat and therefore wouldn't need the uprated M/C - will see how it feels when I bed in the Pagids....

Thanks guys - after chatting to John at Performance Braking, I have decided to buy some Pagid RS15s, as I have only heard good things about them. Broke the bank to pay for them, but I can't see the point in scrimping on brakes! Will let you know how I get on......

I've got 4-pot ali HiSpec brakes up front and boggo Ital drums on the rear, on my BEC, and understood that EBC Greenstuff pads were ideal up-front in a lightweight BEC, and as they were fairly cheap I thought I'd give them a crack (boggo Ital shoes on the rear). I'm about 300 miles into the 500-mile bedding-in period and I must say I'm not that impressed so far and am not sure performance is going to improve vastly at the 500 mile point. There just doesn't seem to be much 'bite' to them. The pedal is pretty hard after a couple of rounds of bleeding (using standard M/C). Should I persevere for another couple of hundred miles, or try out one of the other pads such as Mintex 1144s or the famous Pagids?

No worries

Try Steve @ SPC - think the number is in Low Flying......

I have semi-permanently attached my half doors to the car (after seeing the suggestion from someone on here) using self-tappers on the top edge.

yeah, only clocked it was you at the last minute! popped into the science park - looks like it could be a good spot try some donuts etc...

Eh, are you saying that you have lost brake fluid 'cos there's a hole in your brake pipe, and the MoT man was happy with that?

It's insane

Nah they're 205s on the back (got some Pileup-class 185s for hooning!). Sean - cannot wait to come over to California (I'm gonna be in San Diego) - Brad sent me a link to the Pashnit website and the roads and scenery look absolutely stunning! SLR - the CX-Rs do look great don't they! Right, gotta learn how to drive the thing now

Cheers BBL - yep I'm aware of the California club and have been chatting to Brad - will probably make an appearance on the forum real soon Are you over there? Rob - the dash is the Mychron 3 Gold Auto (some info here). It's a great little unit for the money - does logging and very configurable etc... oh yeah forgot to mention you in my acknowledgements - for getting my Quaife ATB to Phil @ R&R - ta!!! I can hopefully tell you the weight next week.....

Good spot Noger - just been on the Proshift website and the throttle actuator looks identical to the Trickshifter one - may have to give them a ring. DSL - keep meaning to contact you about your Busa suspension settings, as I am getting mine set up professionally next Monday - can I drop you an e-mail?

Thanks guys Martin - will let you know as soon as I get the wheels aligned and the corner weights & rake corrected - my garage and drive floor are about as straight as dale winton and they are all badly out, so I'm taking it to a setup place ASAP (hopefully Roger Heavens Racing) - will let you know the weight too. From the brief trip to the MOT station I can say that it sounds mental though and I'm gonna need ear plugs ASAP! Simon - well spotted - yes I will eventually be moving back to Wilts at some point this year and next year I am upping sticks to California (with the 7)!

Re. automatic throttle-blipping - there is a unit made by Trickshifter which uses the idle-speed screw to blip when it senses a downchange - see here. I'd like to learn how to heel & toe first though......

Finally finished the Yamaham last week and passed it's MOT - just waiting for V5 to come back so that I can tax it and put some miles on the clock. Well chuffed. It has been a brilliant project and well worth it. Too many people to thank for helping me get through it (all 2 years), but some of the stars were (in no order): Dave & Pete Cherry (for lending me half their tools, welding and general mechanical help), Bruce @ Arch for the superb chassis restoration & mods, Tony @ TSK for the excellent paintjob and bringing the chassis back to HQ, Phil @ R&R for the diff build, Keith @ Kliktronic for several jobs FOC, Ian @ STM for making a lovely engine cradle at a sensible price (I will never forget the brutality with which he attacked my chassis with a hacksaw!), Richard Miles & 'Coose' for continuous putting-an-R1-in-a-car help, 'Robster' for help with the axle mod, the guys at our machine shop for helping me make so many bespoke parts from my crappy drawings (including the beautiful carb bellmouths and paddle mech), everyone on BC..........and many others..................... Some photos HERE. First appointment is to get the suspension & wheel alignment set up..........

Simon - how does your shifter remove the need to heel-and-toe on downchanges? Is this one of the systems that blips the throttle when it senses a downshift? Or do you mean that it is so quick that you can change down the gears really late? I am hoping to test mine on the road this week and am much looking forward to it 😬 Edited by - Ferrino on 16 Jul 2006 16:12:36

I am running an electronic gearchange mechanism on my BEC (Kliktronic) which is activated by some paddles on my wheel (much easier and more fun to use than prodding buttons). I dare say that this specific model would not be powerful enough for a car engine gearbox though. My paddle mechanism is half home-brew/half cloned from an offtheshelf product.

Is this the make with the gasket problem?

Once the Yamaham is MOT'd I am hoping to take it to Roger Heavens Racing for a flat-floor/track/toe setup (don't trust myself with the DIY methods!). I'm sure he will have plenty of suggestions on settings but I was just wondering what Fireblades are using for track/toe? Will be mainly running CR500s and will be road and occasional trackday to start with. I am a suspension numpty and wonder how the very light frontend has an influence on track/toe choice (eg. to counteract understeer)?

I don't have a pedal box cover - 1989 Classic chassis.

Balls, can't find it anywhere! Think I'll just chance it, unless getting a replacement is painless, which I doubt!

Spotted on my cycle in to work

Cheers Matt - will dig it out and velcro it on then

The little ali plate which displays the VIN and is usually placed on the horizontal piece of ali beneath the master cylinder: is it strictly necessary to have this present for an MOT or can you leave it off? Mine is still attached to the old ali panel somewhere in the loft and I'd rather not have to find it