Ferrino
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Everything posted by Ferrino
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I need to select a battery for a mainly road-based 7, running a 2.0 Duratec. It will have heated windscreen, wipers etc. I'd love something as compact as possible (relative to the standard Caterham anchor), but it doesn't need to be lightweight at the expense of reliability. The Odyssey PC680 seems a popular choice - is it still the "go to"? Thanks.
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Thanks all. I'm going to go with the 5/8" as I like to have more clutch control (and a lighter clutch) for road use: theoretically the smaller cylinder should give me that.
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Grant - thank you. This 2-way valve looks ideal. I live in a warmer climate, so there is definitely potential for a positive pressure condition when leaving the car in the sunlight on a hot day. If anyone else is looking, it seems that is available rebranded as a Mocal at DT for even less than then Caterham 1-way valve: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/us/mocal-fuel-tank-pressure-relief-valve-moctpv8/
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Jonathan, thanks for the link! I have read the "371" notice and it appears to describe a one-way valve that allows air in, but not vapors out. I was wondering if there is a separate valve that does the opposite, but I'm thinking that it doesn't exist, presumably because it's not an issue.
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I have an injection tank and the Caterham aero filler neck assembly. My understanding is that (on the smallest of the ports on the neck assembly) you connect a small piece of hose, which has a one-way valve attached. And that this valve allows air to enter the tank (to prevent a vacuum forming as fuel heads to the engine), while not allowing fuel vapors to escape. Is there not a requirement for another valve which does the opposite? i.e. allows air to escape when the tank gets hot (presumably while idling on a very hot day). Or is this positive pressure condition not really a problem (compared to the negative pressure condition)? I guess I'm a little confused as I've seen some folks are using a 2-way valve, while Caterham uses a 1-way valve. Thanks!
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Thanks! How confusing! Surely if you fit a well adjusted clutch stop, you can avoid the over-extension problem in either case?
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Trying to figure out which clutch master cylinder size to use for a Duratec conversion. I will be using the standard Ford slave cylinder. There appear to be two options: 0.625" and 0.7". What would be standard fitment by the factory on a Duratec car, please? My understanding is the smaller cylinder will give a longer throw for the same movement of the slave cylinder and it sounds like this would give more feel for the bite point? Thanks.
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For my Duratec 2.0 conversion (stock motor with Jenvey throttle bodies), I was wondering which injectors are typically used, please? By my calculations, 275cc would allow for up to 220BHP, so should give enough headroom for potential upgrades (I'm hoping to be at around 180 BHP to start with). Are there any particular injector models (spray patterns etc) that work well? I'll be using the factory injector location in the cylinder head.
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7 wonders: the Nitrons came supplied with top hats with an inner diameter of 1/2" (just like the Bilstein rubber bushes on the stock dampers). I believe the intention is for them to be used with the Bilstein sleeves which reduce the 1/2" to the bolt size of 5/8". I guess it would have been neater to make the ID of the top-hats 5/8" in the first place...
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7 wonders: Nitron dampers come with spherical joints, not rubber ones.
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Curious what the outcome of this sleeve experiment was, please? Did you end up have some custom made to tighter tolerances? I'm also fitting Nitron dampers and have currently ordered Caterham sleeves... Cheers!
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Thanks! I'm at the stage where I need to withdraw the pinion and I was confused because people refer to having to pull the Caterham pinion out through the "top", whereas on my rack the only way it's coming out is by being pushed out the "bottom". I now see that it's because mine is a LHD rack! It would be good to know if those Titan Elise parts transfer to the Caterham rack, since Caterham only sells the little nylon cups as part of a kit which includes the track rod arms etc., which I don't need. And I understand Titan will not sell parts for the Caterham rack. I am going to guess that the nylon cups are the same...
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I have a used 22% Titan steering rack, which I would like to check over and replace any worn parts. Does anyone have a write-up on this, with pics, please? It seems that Titan will not sell parts directly (and Caterham are not willing to either without buying a new rack), but I notice that Titan also made early Elise racks with a similar design - do the parts on this rack fit the Caterham Titan design? From crawling some previous posts, it seems that: i) The white nylon cups (that link the tie rods to the rack) should be replaced. ii) The nylon thrust pad (which adjusts the pressure on the rack) is either smoothed out or replaced. iii) To inspect, clean and relube the rack, it seems that the pinion needs to be removed in order to withdraw the rack. Does that need a puller? Thanks!
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Strangely: can you please share your dimensions for your Protech shocks on a 96+ widetrack? I’ve not heard of using extenders on rear before. Sounds like the open length was too short or spring too short? Front & Rear open damper length (bushing center-to-center) Front & Rear Spring length Also, do your rear dampers attach to center or bottom of the DD tube?
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Would you go 225/130 for a road-focussed Duratec? Also, do you know the appropriate spring lengths and open-damper lengths for a post-96 widetrack with the "under-the-tube" DD pickup point, please? Is the spherical bearing option OK for the road?
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Looking to order some Protech shocks for a widetrack De Dion S3 project. Duratec motor. Mostly road, but occasional track. What spring rates have people spec’d on their Protechs, please? Last car was a narrow-track, bike-engined, live-axled 7, so chalk and cheese! Thanks!
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Thanks - now in touch with him!
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Looking for a set of 13x6 Caterham "8-spoke" wheels. Will consider a pair or a set. Preferably in the original anthracite color. No tires. Thanks.
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Thanks for all the feedback! I am currently looking to pair the Duratec with the following: Tracsport semi-helical gearset (in rebuilt Type 9) with ratios: 2.29/1.61/1.225/1.0/0.82 (so the long 1st and 5th choices) Quaife ATB (in rebuilt 3.92 Sierra diff)The ATB-vs-Plate LSD has been the toughest decision, but I think the ATB is the best choice for me as this car will spend most of it's life on the road and I don't want to worry about servicing the Titan/Tracsport. The main criticism of the ATB seems to come from those who have become more serious about trackdays/racing and don't want to spin away an airborne wheel when they encounter kerbs or off-camber tight turns. It seems that the action of the ATB is also a bit less abrupt. Comments?
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Do the pads on the Ultralite 2 SVA calipers match the standard 232mm Triumph solid discs well? I ask because these calipers are just a generic Sierra caliper and I thought the Sierra use slightly larger discs. Is the pad therefore not close to the edge of our smaller discs?
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Does anyone have a rebuildable set of Ford Sierra rear brake calipers available, please? I thought I had a good pair, but they are damaged and my preference is to rebuild a set of Ford OEM calipers over the new Chinese reproductions. Thanks!
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Do you have the Ford part number for the pump that is internally regulated to push out 3.8 BAR, please? i.e. the non-Ecoboost one. Thanks.
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Thanks! It wasn't clear that there was any return port at all on the new Ford tanks. So there is a short return line that goes from the regulator back to the tank somewhere. I presume this means that Caterham does not use an electronic fuel pump controller, since there is a regulator...
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Thanks all - very useful. I'd like to use the latest Ford tank/pump arrangement, but since I already have both tunnel fuel lines in place, I'd like to regulate fuel pressure right next to the rail (either in a "dead head" or traditional return arrangement). What is still not clear to me is how much pressure these Ford pumps make with no electronic pressure controller (as appears to be used in their native configuration on production cars). And just to be clear - these new Ford-style tanks have no return inlet port on the bottom, right?
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Thanks. So are the basket-style pump/sender units for the new Ford tanks generic Ford parts or are they somehow Caterham-specific?
