Ferrino

Can I please clarify a few things? When you refer to a "Rover" tank, are you talking about this one: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/tanks/1484-fuel-tank-injection-aluminium.html So this would have the early in-tank pump that inserts from the side and fuel is returned from the rail to the tank (eternal regulator). And then the "Ford" tank is the new one: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/tanks/2537-fuel-tank-assembly-sigma-2006-onwards-suzuki.html Which does not have a return and the in-tank pump mounts from the top and is designed to be used with a "dead head" rail. Questions: 1. The pump for the new "Ford" type tank: someone suggested it may need to be controlled by the ECU - is that correct? 2. The pump for the old "Rover" type tank: can you still source the pump carrier/cradle new? Sounds like it's discontinued?

Thanks all. The car is a 2002 (de Dion, imperial/Arch) and currently there is no tank at all - just a pair of lines running through the tunnel. I am planning to use the Raceline direct-to-head throttle body kit, but I'm not sure if I will use a rail with injectors in the throttle bodies, or the stock arrangement with the Ford rail & injectors in the head. I will see which Raceline recommends, but I think I prefer the sound of injectors in the head, which sounds like it would require the "dead head" configuration? Haven't decided on ECU yet, but it seems Raceline likes the Omex kit. I'll probably end up with whatever my local rolling road/tuning company likes to work with (I'm in the US). To be honest, I wasn't even aware of the "dead head" setup, where the rail terminates! And I didn't even know there were in-tank pump! I assumed I'd take an early injection tank and mount a high-pressure pump on the rear bulkhead, with a regulator after the rail, sending fuel back to the return line/tank. I believe the early tank is still available and the hole in the side where the old in-tank pump was mounted could be blanked off (for using an external pump). Not sure about ECU-driven pump controllers. Sounds like there are different flavors of in-tank pumps?

My only experience of Caterham fuel tanks is the carb variety, which operate with a low-pressure external pump and a separate fuel sender. I am now building a 2.0 fuel-injected Duratec 7 and have no fuel tank or pump parts at all (I do have the tunnel plumbed with supply & return plumbing, though). I was wondering what I should order, please? Am I looking for the ali fuel tank with an in-tank fuel pump? Is there a particular pump I'm after? From the pics on the Caterham website, it looks like there is an assembly which combines the in-tank pump with the sender/float unit? Thanks!

Mark, what did you end up with: ATB or Plate LSD? I'm having the same discussion with Road & Race, who favor the plate type. I am predominantly road use, with a couple of track days per year. The ATB is commonly recommended for road use, but it's not clear to me if that's because it's cheaper/quieter/maintenance-free or if the behavior of the ATB is more predictable/progressive when it does engage. I've seen some folks remark that the ATB is progressive, while plate-type is more on/off.

Yep I run those with UL4's up front Thanks - which piston sizes do you have on the 4s and 2s, please? They have a range available... And are you running the plain, 232mm discs all around? Full archive search, about 34 hits. Thanks!

Is anyone using the Hi-Spec "SVA Ultralite 2" calipers as replacements for the Sierra rears on a De Dion? http://www.hispeccalipers.co.uk/svaultralite.html These have a mechanical handbrake mechanism that uses a separate handbrake pad. I've heard conflicting accounts of whether the handbrake mechanism clears 13" wheels - can anyone please shed some light on this? I'm thinking of using Ultralite 4s up front and Ultralite 2s on the rear (stock, plain discs). Anyone running the full Hi-Spec setup? Thank you.

Thanks all. I was leaning towards the ATB because the consensus seemed to be it was better suited to road use, quieter, and maintenance-free (compared to plate LSD). Might chat to Steve about Re. the Tracsport semi-helical ratios, which 1st gear ratio do people like? There is a choice between 2.29 and 2.48. The 2.29 seems very long to me, but it would probably bring 1st into use on slow corners. I would plan to use a 3.92 final-drive, so I guess I should crunch the numbers with the different ratios... Another choice on the Tracsport is whether to upgrade to needle-bearing on all mainshaft gears (I think standard is just 1st and 2nd). Apparently this is designed for high-RPM setups that spin 8 KRPM+. I was aware of the non-keyed crank pulley, but wasn't sure if it was of concern to a stock Duratec. If I'm tearing down the engine anyway, it might make sense to upgrade. Is there a kit to convert to a keyed setup?

I recently bought a used “rolling chassis” project: it’s a 2002 Arch/imperial De Dion chassis with a bunch of parts (LHD, as I’m in the US). There is no powertrain at all (it used to have a 2.0 Zetec with Type 9) and despite running a bike-engined 7 previously, I’ve decided to go with a 2.0 Duratec this time around. I’m planning to run it with throttle bodies (eg. Jenvey) and am told it should make 180-185 BHP, which is my goal for a road-focused car which will make occasional trips to the track. What I’m less clear about (coming from a bike-engined live-axled 7), is the best gearbox and diff to pair with the Duratec. It seems that everyone who has fitted the SPC/Tracsport semi-helical gearkit in their Type 9 5-speed loves it to bits and this is currently my first choice. I’ve spoken to a couple of shops who will build a Type 9 with this kit (First Motion & Road & Race) and ship it out to the US, since Steve no longer builds gearboxes with his kit. For diff, I was planning to go with a 7” Sierra diff with a 3.92 CWP and the Quaife ATB. This seems to be the “LSD” of choice for road-going cars that periodically go on track. There is also the Tracsport plate-type LSD, but I’m not sure how well suited it is for road use. I’d love to get some feedback on these choices, please. Is there anything I’m missing? I must admit, when I heard Caterham was now using MX-5 gearboxes, I thought this would be a natural choice over the older Type 9 setup. But it sounds like it would take some work to fit to my imperial chassis and the custom ratios are not as available as the Type 9. I think I’ll miss the sequential from the bike engine, but the Quaife/SADEV offerings are at least double the cost of a freshly-built Tracsport-based Type 9. Thanks!

Wow, 50-60K miles, that’s really impressive! Are you still running the Protech dampers? What’s the story with the engine replacements? A few weeks ago I bought a used LHD Arch chassis, which will be the foundation of a ground-up build, which I’m really looking forward to. Planning on a 2.0 Duratec this time.

Hi Clive! Yes I believe Arnie was the original owner, sold the car to Noger and then he sold it back after the BEC conversion!

I like the earlier suggestion of placing a bar under the feet of the jack stands (which support the ends of the bent tube) and then looping a ratchet strap around both the bar and the bent portion of tube. The only issue I see is that the bend occurs near a brazed joint. Is there a chance of damaging the brazed area? Should heat be applied?

Resurrecting an old thread. I recently picked up a 7 that has the same kink in exactly the same location! It’s purely a cosmetic preference for me to straighten it as the chassis has been measured nice and square at various pickup points. I was wondering what the correct way to straighten is, please? Do you need to apply heat? The kink is roughly where another tube is brazed on (leading to one of the A-frame to chassis pickup points). Tank is out, so no problem applying a torch, but I don’t know if it’s better to try cold first. I like the suggestion of putting a bar under the jack stands and using a ratchet strap to pull the kink downwards. Thanks!

Hi - I have a couple of shots of my bike-engined Caterham (currently for sale!), which has the under-dash handbrake and a RiF carbon tunnel top (and gear-lever surround). Handbrake works great for MOT time but is never needed while buckled up. I fitted an additional clutch spring (common mod on the R1) and the clutch is very controllable. I think the tunnel looks soooo much nicer: Pic 1 Pic 2

I am putting the 7 into "hibernation" for about 6 months or so (garaged) and was wondering what your tips are on avoiding problems with being laid up for so long? It's a carbed R1 BEC if that makes a difference. I guess I want to be giving the carbs a good draining/cleanup, in order to avoid jets etc. getting blocked with old fuel? Many thanks!

Oh yes, I will be bringing my road bike, although it will be relegated to the role of commuter! I intend to buy something a bit more 'special' for mixing it with Landis et al! Yamaham @ Keevil

Thanks guys! Will try some more configurations when I get the other bike - the 180 degree rotation sounds like a possibility. Thanks for the rollcage offer, but sounds overkill for a short trip and wouldn't have time to fit anyway. Chris, yes I'm moving to San Diego - was hoping to be there already but got delayed with work and am now arriving in early November - cannot wait! Remind me where you are please? Yamaham @ Keevil

Resurrecting this thread now that road trip time is fast approaching and I have only just got round to trying to mount my bike. Added complication is that I now have a second bike to mount! HERE is a piccy of my bike strapped to the rollbar, with some nice titanium-coloured pipe lagging from Wilko's and some straps. Just need to get a second one on there and a couple of wheels!!! If any of you guys managed to find electronic versions of those images you mentioned I would be interested to see them! I was just going to slap some kind of padding betwixt bike frames. Thanks! Yamaham @ Keevil

Thanks guys - Chris, your suggestion sounds like the easiest - I will give that a go first, considering the faffage required to fab a rack. Yamaham @ Keevil

OK, so I'm planning a Euro road trip in the 7 for August (heading towards Alps & Croatia and hopefully returning via the 'Ring) and I would like to take my road bike as I want to do some of the famous French Alp mountain climbs like Alpe d'Huez, Galibier etc... when I stop near Grenoble. I'm not taking a passenger. I was thinking of ways to mount the bike and was considering using the nylon clamps I used to mount the radiator - they are like ARB mounting clamps and come in various sizes. Was thinking of putting one clamp on each of the FIA bar struts, and then welding a short leg onto each clamp, which would then attach to a 2nd clamp which goes around the bike frame somewhere. That's a rubbish description, but I think you know what I mean! I guess the wheels could then sit in the passenger seat area. I guess I could even ditch the passenger seat, but it would be nice to take people out in it while over there..... Edit: these are the clamps I'm on about. If anyone has done this before, or has any advice, I'd be interested to hear! THANKS 😬 Edited by - Ferrino on 28 Jun 2007 12:24:29

Hi Alistair - is your leak from the axle casing coming from the circular mating surfaces between the diff housing and the centre of the main axle casing? If so, I had this when I rebuilt the axle and I simply cleaned up the edges with some white spirit (without disassembly) and smeared a big bead of silicone sealant over - no more leak! Be in touch about Llandow at the weekend 😬 Yamaham @ Keevil

Hi Phil - I am using this speedo sensor on my front O/S wheel for my Mychron 3 - it is picking up a tiny 'disc-shaped' magnet which I epoxy'd to the wheel rim. But yes I had to fabricate an L-shaped bracket which I bolted to the flat section of the wingstay (ie. through the same plate that the tapered balljoint goes through). Works great but yeah it's just another thing to spend time making. BTW, thanks for the tip on the Mychron fuel sender circuit. Yamaham @ Keevil

Completely agree - they will look like poo & you will cry like a baby. Yamaham @ Keevil

ooooh tasty! do they do them in walnut effect too Yamaham @ Keevil

Nick, does this mean you have permission from the Old Bill to reproduce the speed camera symbol on your car sticker? 😬 Yamaham @ Keevil

Looks like a very neat installation 😶‍🌫️ Yamaham @ Keevil