Ferrino
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Everything posted by Ferrino
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But if it's an Ital axle with the disc conversion then you may have either PCD! Can you upload a piccy? Edited by - Ferrino on 21 Nov 2006 12:27:09
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I have a flatshift (Translogic EZEshift) which cuts the ignition on the upshift - I can use it with either my mechanical shift or my electronic shift (triggered by little paddles on my wheel) as it senses from the combined gear-linkage with a potentiometer. The ones that blip the throttle on the downshift are supposed to work really well, though they were out of my price range. It's really good fun to use - both hands on the wheel and right foot planted on the loud pedal, flick through the 'box with my right hand on the 'up' paddle 1-2-3-4-5-6 😬 It does need setting up though (you need to teach it where to start and stop cutting the ignition for the smoothest change and to avoid false-neutrals - yep, had a few of them!) and I am still tweaking it. Will hopefully get to test it on track at Keevil on Monday. It also comes with a nice LED display showing which gear you are in. Yamaham @ Keevil
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Cheers guys, will probably nip down to the camping shop and see what they have..... Doesn't look like Lidl have any waterproofs currently - shame as I have one of their waterproof jackets and it's superb. Yamaham @ Keevil
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Having never driven the 7 in proper rain before, and with a trackday booked for next Monday and more potential for a downpour than the one I did in August, I was wondering where I could get some cheap waterproof trousers? Any recommendations or other wet-weather tips gratefully received!!! Also, do you find that you need to make any drainage holes in the floor panels, or is that OTT? Yamaham @ Keevil
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I originally bought the Lifeline 8-pin removeable boss, but changed it for a non-wired one and some curly telephone cable when I couldn't find anyone to reliably weld the splined section onto and gun-drill the column (I have never noticed the curly cable at all and it's easy to plug in the connector). Curly cable (15-core) was about a fiver and then the male and female connectors plus terminals were about 20 quid I think. Wiring up the wheel end of the wires was an absolute pig of a job though, so I can understand why you want someone else to do it! Yamaham @ Keevil
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I decided to put the breather through the tank alloy - somewhere near the sender hole so that I could get my fingers through to tighten up the nut which fixes the valve. Had to be careful to wash the tank of any swarf (was rebuilding car, so tank was out & empty anyway). I think I used TBV45 in this picture. Yamaham @ Keevil
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After much examination of the filler on my carbed tank, I couldn't figure out how on earth air could escape or enter the tank, so I bought a fuel tank vent valve from Think Automotive and placed it on top of the tank, for peace of mind. Yamaham @ Keevil
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😬 Yamaham @ Keevil
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Not a problem using the factory ECU with the 98-03 R1 engines - there are a few little tricks you need to do in order to satisfy the starter circuit logic and for instrumentation but nothing challenging. If you are seriously contemplating installing the latest generation of R1 engine then I would ask people in the know and who have considered this engine, as I think there are some issues. I think it has been discussed on the Yahoo BEC list and there are some gurus on the DSR forum. Edited by - Ferrino on 25 Sep 2006 23:59:39
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I have converted my 1989 Live Axle to R1 power - I used the carbed 1999 engine (carbs was from 98 to 01, then EFI) to keep things cheaper and to ease the installation - it really is a stonking little engine I have written about my installation previously and there have been many threads discussing bike engine conversions on Blatchat - I would suggest you make a brew and do a search of the archives I am not sure that anyone has installed the very latest R1 engine in a BEC though - I remember reading that they are quite different beasts to the 02-03 EFI units. I think there were issues with electrickery and that the power curve wasn't exactly ideal, or something along those lines. Yamaham @ Keevil
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But doesn't the underside of the Tillett seat have a bulge in it, which would touch the floor before the start of the captive nuts? Not sure, never tried it myself. Yamaham @ Keevil
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If the play is all in the QR mechanism and it is not affecting driving, I'd be tempted to just swap it out for a fixed wheel & column for the MOT and then replace. Regarding the steering rack, you can buy little extensions which screw onto a standard-track rack when you go wide. Yamaham @ Keevil
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No you don't need a low brake fluid warning and I don't have one fitted - I usually do a visual inspection of the MC now and again. For my 4 analogue channels/sensors I have: AiM thermoresistive sensors for water and oil temp (had to tap relevant areas to M5 to fit) - these are about 15 quid each from the US (way cheaper than the UK dealers). I then bought a VDO 0-10 BAR oil pressure sensor (ebay bargain for a tenner), which you need to fit a 1.8 k-ohm resistor to. And for the 4th channel I used the existing Caterham VDO fuel level sensor - I used a 2 k-ohm resistor and then measured the resistance while adding one litre at a time to an empty tank (you then use the software to input values and draw a curve). The signal is not damped, which just means you need to check fuel level when stationary or on level ground - not an issue at all. For road speed I use the AiM magnet sensor - the sensor is attached to my wingstay and I glued a single tiny magnet to the o/s wheel. Matches a GPS reading incredibly well Yamaham @ Keevil
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Like I said, you don't need a brake test light to pass MOT, and I just fitted the fog light for the MOT and removed it straight after, transferring that switch control to another function. That MXL unit is velly velly nice indeed, but I decided against it in the end as it would require either a big diameter wheel to see the display properly (giving the bus effect) or one of the 'cut' D-shaped wheels (which I don't like and would prolly need a 22% rack to use). The Mychron 3 is cheaper and has a smaller display which is all clearly visible with a 260mm MOMO. I think you can download templates from the AiM website which you can print, cut out & stick on to see how it would look on your dash...... would definitely do that before committing - I did it with the M3. Will also tell you how much dash tubing you will have to remove in order to fit it in there. Yamaham @ Keevil
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Hi Phil - I used these switches from VWP and they are excellent and well-priced (I'm not too keen on shiny stuff - black power!!!) - they have an integrated LED so no need to have an extra LED above the button. You can see them on my dash here. However, I made my own loom and so only needed on/off type to keep things simple. I also have 2 LEDs to indicate when left and right indicators are on - but then again I use a non-standard self-cancelling unit for indicators which allow me to use buttons on the wheel, so not sure about the standard CC setup (I use the Signal Dynamics unit which cost around 40 quid from the US and does indicators and hazards in one matchbox-sized box). You don't need the brake test light to pass MOT. Do a search on MOT and instruments (or something like that) as I think I raised the question when designing my dash..... For LED holders, I bought some nice black convex metal ones from Maplin - much nicer than the crappy plastic ones. Yamaham @ Keevil Edited by - Ferrino on 21 Sep 2006 15:39:41
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Can attest that this is a very nice and well built car! Yamaham @ Keevil
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Measure thrice, drill once!
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How bad are they? Personally, I would get them blasted and powdercoated in satin/matt black as I think painting looks crap unless it is done really well - and yeah I think POR-15 gives a glossy finish. Yamaham @ Keevil
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pool table light has gone too ☹️ Yamaham @ Keevil
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Now why didn't Wacko Jacko just buy a Caterham then......... 😬 Yamaham @ Keevil
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I've done this mod to the front of my 89 Live Axle and it's quite straightforward - you will need: A pair of DeDion upper wishbones (you can often find them 2nd-hand here) A pair of pivot brackets (these provide the front pickup for the upper wishbones and you will need to make a hole in your sideskin to allow them to poke through) - can buy these from Redline A standard-track De Dion front ARB (again, easy to find 2nd-hand here) A new pair of ball-joints (part no. QR1118S off the top-of-my-head but please check archives) which have the correct taper for the trunnion-type uprights which you should have fitted - about 7 quid each. Think that's about it. Definitely look at Phil's website (you'll need to edit the above link as it has some crap at the beginning). Difficult for me to comment on the difference it made as it was part of a major rebuild, but it makes sense over the Classic front suspension and it is nice to be able to adjust camber and have some control over ARB stiffness (you can even fit the Freestyle adjustable ARB like Phil Yamaham @ Keevil
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Hang on, will just check....... Nah, found a stack of half doors, some old widetrack wishbones and some Tillett seats but no pool table light 😬
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Oh the joys of going backwards . And people chuckle when I say I don't have reverse! Hope you get it sorted in time for Tuesday Ashley Yamaham @ Keevil
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I use Redline synthetic oil, as comes highly recommended by many BEC owners. Yamaham @ Keevil
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OK, the bonnet, scuttle and nosecone have gone. I've just found a large stack of old Low Flying mags which I would like to pass on to someone if they can collect - these were given to me by Sam M. Any takers? Yamaham @ Keevil
