greg

Don't listen to Kevin, his Xflow is far too clean.... 😳

I did not bother getting mine from Proven Products as they told me it was "too heavy to post". My arse, they could not be bothered sending it royal mail - fantasitic customer service ..... beware.....

I have some whelers (sp) in good condition. Wheels are in brighton. Make me an offer.

234

nah.... you want a 244!

I do not bother with the oil cooler as removing 95% of the oil only leaves a bit arround.... and I cannot be bothered to get it all out, prefering to change often.

Search the archives; but here is how I do it; a) empty tank by either suction hose or remove outlet and let it drain. b) drain sump c) remove oil filter d) Leave everything to drain for a while. e) Replace all the bits f) Refill tank to required level g) Crank engine with/without plugs until you get oil pressure (a while!) h) Recheck tank level i) Cross fingers and start engine j) Check oil presure k) recheck tank level l) Go for blat ....... m) recheck tank level

Rollers usually increase the ratio and hence lift. When you fit a high lift cam there may be too much lift (and mr valve may meet mr piston). Some engine builders may also question thier strength compared to normal rockers on steel posts. Having said that, people are getting very good outputs on the 234/A6's that although not huge on the BHP are probably more trackable with a wider/flatter/lower torque curve, and hence a better "drive" than a higher bhp xflow. Sig: If it is such a big issue why are the WSCC, Piston Heads, SELOC, BBC, Channel 4 ... not members only?

Peters car is very nice, and that is a great BHP figure for a 234.... fancied a 244? Although I suppose you'd have to lose the roller rockers. I looked at specing a Zetec and the budget before labour was nearly £3K so tunning what you have is sometimes cheaper, and more fun!

Dry sump tank design seems to be steeped in mythology. Basically they need to be tall to de-airate the oil. They need to hold enough oil to always have the base covered (how much is that?) and the outlet (usually at the base) needs to be the same height (ish) as the pump to avoid it labouring. The inlets should be low to avoid loading the pump also! Where is your battery? Is it under the carbs? In which case moving it back might help. On the DS tank front you can either have a special one made that fits elsewhere like above the bell housing or a spcial brise on that fits over the footwell extension (gains nothing in moving the weight compared to the normal position) or somewhere to the rear. Moving the battery or the tank would result in nasty long heavy cable/pipe runs.....

Phil, I think the issue with wamring a car by leaving it ticking over are: a) You do not wam anything esle (like Driver/Brakes/trans) b) some engines (like the xflow) have oil issues at tickover speeds - the xflow suffers from very bad cam oiling at low revs, to the point that they can be worn excessively if left to tickover (compared to ware on the other parts of the engine). PS I use 5w50 Mobile 1 on a race spec Xflow..... from what you've posted this would seem to be a good grade. I notice that it has the same A/B ratings as Halfrauds Synth oil. PPS I try to avoid letting it tickover..... sounds its best at 8000rpm when warm!

YHM

J'ai une culasse (Cylinder Head) 1600cc d'un Sprint (année) 1998. Il sera cher de le poste en France d'Angleterre, Non? j'habite à Brighton (East Sussex) mais travaille près de Douvres (Kent). Je veux environ £100

Rob, Are you planning to fit a hyabusa?

ok. How can we get it from Brighton to you from Friday afternoon/Satuday? It is presently wrapped up in my loft in Brighton. However my Partner is neither able to get into the loft (pregnant) or capable of spotting a Rocker Cover (bad training on my part) Would it be easier to give me call on 07769907533?

Kent (Caterbury) / Sussex (Brighton). Can you define quite quick - as I am working away from home at the mo, and will not be able to post it before Friday.

I have one - VGC Me an offer, say around £30 (ex p&p)?

Peter's post sounds a bit like Train Spotting (or adminspotting for geeks). Althought you missed one Pete - K's are rubbish 😳 Undersquare engines are rubbish. I recon that anyone who say's Xflows are rubbish should be burnt at the stake for being a heretic

I've seen 3 sumps and the windage plate have all been "adjusted" by a few mm at least. Be gentle and test each time. A new (thick) gasket might also help.

The sooner we have id cards the quicker heritics like this can be identified and burnt at the stake. Yes CC Xflow design might be comprimised, but then again it was designed by a few people, in their spare time, in a shed. The K series was designed by a big team, over a long time, and it still seems to break head gaskets! If you want reliability go japanese. If you want a cheap(ish) caterham, that can (sort of ) trace it's roots back 40 years, and can acept it might not be perfect then get an Xflow.

I think most pan's are hand finished with a hammer.... is it that far out?

Dave, I am doing both. No need to wrap the exterior bits of the exhaust, and a soldering mat from B&Q will do the starter. It is not a simple job, and takes a while to do well. Do not bother with the silly fixings they sell, just get some jubliee clips.

Seems to last ages, most issues revolve arround damaging it when removing the bonnet - have to be carefull as little rips spread. The previous one on my car had been on for a few years at least, so must have done 3,000 odd miles, mostly races (not by me). So must have sucked allot of air!

k.russell Would titanium be insultingly expensive, or just rudely expensive? What about nylon?

I have a pipercross 600D long 6" sausage thing that just fits within the cutout. This allows longer trupets, but would not fit on a car with Clams. I think it also offers greater area, but that is just opinion. I think it looks smart too.