oilyhands
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Everything posted by oilyhands
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Is that a MAP sensor or a Baro sensor... Oily
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As you say, it looks like either LPG or NOx to me. I've seen a hybrid system where you can switch between LPG and regular petrol.. Oily
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A K3 is not a simple pug and play, you would need an adapter (available from Emerald), but there is little to be gained by replacing the stock ECU with an Emerald unless the it is remapped by someone who knows what they are doing, You would do better to go with a remapped Mems from Kmaps. BTW I am an Emerald dealer... Oily
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Emerald K3 ecu compared to K6 - for a K series
oilyhands replied to Adam Godfrey's topic in TechTalk
You can hardwire the Emerald connector directly from your existing ECU loom connector, I have the wiring schematic here (and a spare Mems connector or two). It takes time but if you are methodical it can be done in around 2 hours a very low cost. Oily -
Emerald K3 ecu compared to K6 - for a K series
oilyhands replied to Adam Godfrey's topic in TechTalk
Pretty sure the K3 has VVC and VTEC support, Oily -
Emerald K3 ecu compared to K6 - for a K series
oilyhands replied to Adam Godfrey's topic in TechTalk
There are some advantages with the K6, but most don't have a dramatic impact , a good K3 will be perfect for your planned upgrade path. Some of the K3 ECUs can be upgraded to K6 if you want all the latest bells and whistles, but TBH you shouldn't need to . I have literally hundreds of older K3s and M3DK ECUs in the field all working quite happily on K series engines , EU2 and EU3 and at various different states of tune from stock to 250BHP+. Oily -
Idle should be controlled by the ECU. But.. there should always be slack in the cable, so I'd say via the throttle stop. Oily
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I have made a few Colsibro bushes as replacements for spigot bearings when I havent had them to hand. They seem to work just fine, they take a while to make though.. Oily
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Andrew, if the sleeve is loose then disrupt the surface all over with an auto centre punch, this will raise the surface a little (in a similar way to knurling), then fit with bearing fit. This will give it more purchase on the housing. Oily
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The Hillman imp engine is based on the Coventry Climax, how closely I'm not sure, but I have worked on both (many years apart) and a few bits were definitely interchangeable. Oily
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There is an article on my personal website which introduces the basic principles of engine management which may help with your understanding of the basics and with jargon busting. Www.dvapower.com/ems The site is not a commercial site, just information. Oily
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There is an article on my personal website which introduces the basic principles of engine management which may help with your understanding of the basics and with jargon busting. Www.dvapower.com/ems The site is not a commercial site, just information. Oily
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Thanks Nick, Could I put someone in touch with you? He is considering the same for the VHPD in his S1 190 Elise.. Oily
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Ideally yes, although just an idea of engine behaviour at idle and through progression/ light throttle etc. Oily
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Does anyone here have an SLR with an Emerald/vernier upgrade as I have an owner who would like some feedback on how it worked out. I have upgraded a dozen or so but don't have contact details to hand. Oily
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Does anyone here have an SLR with an Emerald/vernier upgrade as I have an owner who would like some feedback on how it worked out. I have upgraded a dozen or so but don't have contact details to hand. Oily
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A leak from the exhasut gasket cn cause a tick that sounds a lot like a follower, it's worth checking the exhaust nuts for tightness. Oily
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I have a couple of engine manuals for the 1.8K series, one from Lotus, one from Haynes, if you drop me an email i will try to find some time to send them to you. Oily
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BP285H and BP300H dont work too well with a plenum or the stock VHPD ECU, if you have TBs and programmable ECU then either would be fine. Oily
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The airbox kits for Jenvey TBs are now available from me, currently in dialogue about airbox for Titan TBs and Roller barrels. Oily
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150/125 thou lift at TDC. Oily
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They are the Piper 872 profile, 280 degrees, 10.2mm, the 285M mentioned above give better results. R500/1227 cams are 280 degrees, 11.73mm lift and a much sharper lift profile. If you are looking at similar profiles the BP285H is pretty close WRT to power/torque and Piper also do a hydraulic version of the VHPD, either of these profiles will save the expense and aggro of solid followers and give excellent results. Oily
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I tried the app around 5 years ago when I first heard about it, I found it near impossible to get a clear 'twang' as free access to the belt is not easy in many of the K series installations I work on and also for the reasons Andrew explains above, this is especially true of the auto tensioner on the K series where the tensioner is spring loaded and it's authority cn be overcome quite easily. Oily
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If you are replacing the rear seal, make sure you get a decent quality one, there are plenty of rear seals available cheaply that are the wrong material and will harden and leak fairly quickly, there are others which are dimensionally unsound. Make sure you cement the new seal in using a suitable silicone sealant on the flat flange, clean the flange of any residues and then use carb cleaner or isopropyl alcohol to make sure it is chemical clean, clamp in the new seal for a few hours to ensure the sealant has cured. It's a job you will *not* want to do again. Oily
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I've put together half a dozen engines using the Chinese block, two of them based on the EP package, the rest separately sourced using Westwood L1634 and a couple with Westwood ductile liners, none have given any issues so far, the block is structurally more rigid, but there are some small detailed differences between the new and old blocks, the main one being the crank sensor mounting which is allowed for in the EP kit. There are a small number of improvements one being improved drainage behind the rear crank seal (this is something I do on Rover blocks as a matter of course). You wont go far wrong , but the costs might be a bit rich for some. Oily