oilyhands

In my experience of around 300 sets of TBs, you would normally expect an 1800 to draw around 5-5.25 kg/hr through each barrel, lower airflow can sustain an idle when hot as the ECU will ramp up advance to kick the idle up, but you may have trouble with the cold start if airflow < 4 kg/hr. Dave

Hello Andrew, the solid followers are heat treated when made which gives the upper surface the dull grey patina, in operation the cam lobes wipe the contact surface and in so doing remove the surface layers leaving them silver and shiny. The width of the remaining ring will depend on the cam lift, higher lift cams will leave a thinner ring. Converted hydraulic followers will appear identical to regular followers.

Definitely mechanical, the dull grey patina on the outside edge is confirmation. Oily

Yes there is, examine the tops of the followers, if there is a dull grey ring around 1.5->2mm in width around the periphery then it is likely they are mechanical, if they have the same silver colour uniformly over the whole top surface then they are likely to be hydraulic. To confirm, use a 6 thou feeler gauge between the cam lobe and the follower top when the nose of the cam is pointing up and away from the follower, if the feeler gauge can be slid between cam and follower then they are mechanical as hydraulic followers run with no clearance. Oily

According to my data that profile is a supersport mechanical profile, 260 degrees, 9.10mm lift , how well it will run with hydraulic lifters will depend on the lift ramp and valve acceleration. Oily

That's a scraper plate. The later oil rail requires modification with just about every sump I have fitted it with, in the area you show and around the semi circular nacelles at the ends. Removing some material from the sump internals around the pickup hole will reduce the required material removal from rail and keep maximum surface are around the clamping centre (the bolt hole) which will lead to less compromise on clamping and block stability. The situation is far worse with the Pace dry sump pan. Oily

I would trade up your cams as wel as fitting the TBs/ECU as the results will be disappointing with the cams you have. Oily

<> Given the amazing work done by Revilla creating his mapping tool is the Emerald still necessary on a car with MEMS3? Can the IACV be used with the Jenveys, do they have a port for idle control? <> Idle control is built into the Emerald, I don't think the Mems would handle throttle bodies too well as it's load sensing is MAP based, throttle bodies and bigger cams do not offer a stable MAP signal at lower RPM while off cam. Oily

FYI, the stock K series rings don't fit. A ring pack is on it's way to Andy. Oily

Bilt Hamber wheel cleaner is very effective.I have tried a large number of different cleaners over the years and this is the best non acid type. Oily

The most sensible next upgrade would be Jenvey DTHTBs, Emerald ECU and decent 4-2-1 manifold. If you push too hard with hotter cams them your pistons would be at risk. Oily

If the car is designated as a supersport then it will have SS cams fitted. The rated output would also be shown as 138BHP. Looking at the cams profile then I can confirm that they look very much like SS cams, they are certainly not standard 1.8K camshafts. The followers look hydraulic, hydraulic SS cams are 256 degrees with 8.87mm lift. Oily

Add a little more air by opening the throttle using the idle adjustment screw, don't add too much or the hot idle will soar. This in conjunction with the ignition trim should give a pretty stable cold start idle. Oily

It's a solid one piece manifold and it can be quite tricky to access some of the bolts because of the IACV rail. ISTR a single plug at the front underneath for a stay. Oily

Lean fuelling due to air ingress.. what a pain. Make sure you get a decent gasket too, I dont think the KV6 type support brackets are available anymore so ti will need something fabricating. Oily

There is no guarantee that the new block will be any better WRT liner height than the old unless the old block has obviously softened. Crank geometry is the same, so provided it is in good order it can be retained. Oily

Trim the fuelling at idle and see what transpires. Check the TPS to ensure it is reading correctly, if it misreports throttle position it will be lean on transients. Oily

Normally the sneezing is most noticeable on the induction side. Popping from the exhaust is unburnt fuel igniting well along the exhaust, a little of the flame front exiting the exhaust valve is normal. Oily

Sneezing like that can also be caused by lean fuelling or the ignition timing hopelessly retarded, both result in incomplete / slow combustion so the the charge is still burning/expanding when the inlet valve opens. Oily

Uneven heights can happen not just because of an underlying problem with the block, but also because liners from different sources and manufacturers are not necessarily made to the same tolerance. There have been 4 different liner sources used by Rover and a 4 or 5 more after market. Before you scrap your block, try measuring the liner height with a singe control liner in each position, if you see a gradual decrease from one end the the other then this can be corrected by linishing the block carefully. Some blocks suffer from 'Queen Mary' syndrome where the liners slope away from the vertical like the funnels on the eponymous liner. There is no hope for those. If you have sufficient protrusion but anomalies from liner to liner this can be corrected by linishing the tops of the liners either in or out of the block. I have corrected liner heights this as a dozen or so times. I have corrected the liner heights by linishing the block on around 150 blockswithout issue, taking into account the caveats mentioned above. Oily

Is it carburettored or injected? Insufficient idle advance can cause issues as can poor fuelling at idle. I have engine with 300 degree cams and 3kg flywheels that idle happily at 1000RPM. 1400 RPM idle is an act of desperation. Oily

Stu, that can be a factor especially with TBs where there can be a lot more flow through the de-gas spout. Improving radiator efficiency and cooling capacity is all very well, but if you are not effectively circulating the coolant, the engine temperature (measured at the rear of the head) may not reflect this. Restricting the flow through the bypass radically my help. Oily

The phenomenon is exacerbated by relatively poor efficiency of the coolant pump at low engine speeds. Whenever I warm up an engine following an upgrade the temperature tends to soar with the fan engaging and staying on, the recorded temperature stays quite high seemingly indefinitely. If I hold the RPM at round 2500 for 10 seconds or so the temperature starts to fall back and the fan stops running as the coolant circulation is much higher. Oily

Is that a MAP sensor or a Baro sensor... Oily

As you say, it looks like either LPG or NOx to me. I've seen a hybrid system where you can switch between LPG and regular petrol.. Oily