oilyhands
-
Posts
4,389 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by oilyhands
-
Marry your sister.. to hell with the consequences. Oily
-
It's in the internal rover k series engine manual which I have somewhere around, as I recall the differences in the rod grade sizes are *the same* as the differences in the grades of the crankpin sizes. As it is, at the moment *genuine* graded bearings are near impossible to source, there are many that purport to be size graded, but they are just after market 'std' bearings reboxed as a size grade. All after market bearings are effectively 'blue' grade (intermediate), in my experience around 80% of bearing requirements are blue. I nornally use Mahle Motorsport big end bearings (blue grade), the difference in sizing is minimal so bearing clearance is normally within acceptable limits. Oily
-
If it doesnt work then I'll happily buy it off you :) Oily
-
Armour all is effective but short lived, Gtechniq ceramic permanent trim restorer is excellent and pretty much permanent. Oily
-
I would be aiming for 5.5kg/hr+ or your cold start will definitely struggle, at 5kg/hr the advance will need to ramp up significantly when cold to maintain idle. On an 1800K series I aim for 5.5kg/hr and this consistently gives perfect idle when hot and reasonable cold start, this is over around 200 engines with TBs/Emerald. Fuelling has a large part to play in cold starting... Oily
-
Carcoat rubberlife if you can get it, or a similar Pu sealing product (PU flex, Sikaflex). Oily
-
My guess would be a true 145BHP , a touch more if you are lucky. Oily
-
The cams in the 140 are very tame compared to the supersport cams with a lot less duration. You may get to 160BHP but it's a pricey way to do it, probably around £2800-£3200 by the time the TBs and ECU are installed , cams timed and ECU mapped. If you going to spend that much, cough up a little more for a decent set of cams and you would have a far more exciting engine. On a 140, a decent set of cams, properly timed, a match of the inlet manifold to the head and a Kmaps remap would probably get you to around a true 145-150. The '140' engines are the same as the Trophy 135 which makes around 130 in the MGF and Elise both of which have a superior exhaust manifold. They don't make 140BHP. Oily
-
This^^, without trading up the cams, results will be disappointing for the outlay. As a guide.. Jenveys are around £730, Airbox kit £599, ECU £715, adaptor £159, then there is fitting of the TBs, airbox and ECU and calibration of the ECU. Cams are £595, Verniers £268, then there is fitting of the cams and verniers and cam timing. it's a slippery slope. Oily
-
It's 3/8, I linished a 10mm hex bit down to fit. Oily
-
I would also look carefully at the cam timing as this can have a profound effect on the way an engine delivers its power. Oily
-
A 30mm socket is the size perfect to drift home a cam oil seal or front crank seal on a K series. Oily
-
Wrap is probably more effective and a little cheaper,but it's a b$gger to put on and has a habit of disintegrating into a powdery mess, it also increases the dimensions of the exhaust which can sometimes be a problem if spacing is tight. Oily
-
Mmmm, I'm sceptical about those figures, with that much duration and low lift, peak lift would be reached very quickly and there would be a much wider plateau at the top of the lobe, 286 degrees is massive duration , that is 6 degrees more than the 1227 and 12 degrees more than the 1444 profile, it is the same as the BP320 race cam. Looking at the side of the profile, ?I'd be surprised if the duration were more than 250 degrees. Oily
-
Mmmm, I'm sceptical about those figures, with that much duration and low lift, peak lift would be reached very quickly and there would be a much wider plateau at the top of the lobe, 286 degrees is massive duration , that is 6 degrees more than the 1227 and 12 degrees more than the 1444 profile, it is the same as the BP320 race cam. Looking at the side of the profile, ?I'd be surprised if the duration were more than 250 degrees. Oily
-
They look a lot like stock cams to me, they are most definitely not Supersport cams, nor are they TF135/Xpower/PTP140 cams. Oily
-
They look stock to me, publish a photo of a cam lobe from each cam from the side so I can see the shape. They don't look like supersports. Oily
-
Minister power serial number 128. Prepared by Minister who are no more. Oily
-
M10 x 1.5 flange nut, I keep them in stock, the rearmost stud is often replaced with an M10 x 30mm socket headed capscrew rather than a stud and nut. Studs are M10 x 1.5 x 35mm. Oily
-
I may have a set of TF160 or equivalent injectors kicking around.. or you could increase the fuel pressure to delver the same fuel volume as the 160 injectors.. that's what Caterham did on any number of EU2 SS 1800 engines , the ECUs were calibrated for a 1600 and the fuel pressure increase kludged them up to cover 1800cc. That is why some SS 1800s have a different fuel rail and an adjustable FPR. Oily
-
The R300/R400 and R500 exhaust primaries are in the wrong configuration to be converted to a 4-2-1; the primaries for 2/3 and 1/4 are diagonally opposite one another in the cluster so they cannot be siamesed into a 4-2 section. Check the primaries to ensure that 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 are alongside one another either horizontally or vertically, if they are and your exhaust can is far enough back then a 4-2-1 collector can be fabricated and fitted. Oily
-
I think that was the point of avoiding £175 (the cost of the plug and play adaptor..). Oily
-
The K6 can drive the EU3 IACV with no issues, has been able to for some time. The advantages of EU3 are close coupled coils and HT leads rather than distributor cap and leads , these give better protection in adverse conditions as they are totally enclosed giving a modicum more reliability (no moving parts) and sequential injection which can improve emissions. You can hardwire the connector and save the cost of the EU3 adaptor, a bit of patience and a crimper/soldering iron and 2-3 hours poring over the connectors and you can do a workmanlike job. I have a wiring schematic here. Oily
-
Jenvey Throttle bodies for K series Air box or filter
oilyhands replied to david nelson's topic in TechTalk
The airbox kit also provides the means to retain the existing fuel rail, injectors, FPR and throttle cable as well as the airbox itself and trumpets. The airbox kit is available through me, Oily -
No it isn't normal, I would check your flow meter carefully, some have air bleeds which by pass the metering flaps and give a lower reading, this allows for more sensitivity when a lot of air is being drawn through. Ensure there is not an air bleed that is exposed. Oily