oilyhands

Calibration of progression (idle jets) is not an easy thing to master, the jump from 45F9 to 50F9 need not affect the idle mixture since it can be trimmed using the volume adjustment screws but it will affect light throttle driving. Perhaps a 50F8 which has a larger air drilling than an F9 will give you a halfway house. Quite often the progression holes for the critical off-idle and light throttle are not ideal for the characteristics of the engine which means that you have to over compensate with an over-rich idle jet. The first step *has* to be to trim the idle mixture and balance correctly / check for air leaks and see if the problem goes away, if it does.. worry no more, if it doesn't then a change to 50f8 or 50f9 idles might be an idea, you will then need to re-trim the idle mixture. Oily

Spitting normally indicates that the barrel in question is running weak or the timing is hopelessly retarded, the fact it spits more when cold indicates weak mixture. Weak running could be an air leak or it could simply be that the idle volume screw for that barrel needs adjustment, these are on the top of each barrel near the manifold flange, they screw anti-clockwise to richecn, clockwise to weaken, only adjust them gradually. Oily

Sounds like a bargain, you'd be hard pushed to make one for that price.. oily

A shift light is normally driven from an output of a rev limiter or ECU, some are sequential and have several outputs to drive a series of lights like an LED scale which light up as you approach the rev limit , others just provide a switched earth which is tripped when the pre-set shift light speed is reached. I think you need a processor of some kind to drive a sequnetial system, some simpler electronics could be used to drive a single light system. Oily

Unless the electronics dance the HT cut-out around the cylinders then there is a chance of plug fouling ( a small chance granted) but there is also the affect of unbalanced torque loads on the crank which wont do the crank any good if sustained, since the rated maximum continuous engine speed for a stock xflow (I think) is 6500, 6200 is probably a bit low for a rev limiter, normally they are set at about 500-750RPM above the power peak, if the device doesn't have a shift light then consider rasing the limit by 500 or so RPM. If you can connect a shift light set at 400-500RPM below the limiter this will help you to avoid battering into it all the time. Oily

Isn't the Lumenition one a rebadged Gems?, if so you can adapt the raw map from an Emerald box to the Lumenition box, the igntion values will be the same, but the injector times will need adjusting for the difference in injector period per bit between the two ECUs, this is a straightforward operation, I think the Lumention is 30Mu per bit and the M3D is 61Mu per bit.. obviously you'll need to verify those values, all you then need to do is to take the fuelling values and divide by the M3D rate and multiply by the Lumention rate, a simple Excel macro will do it. Interpolate these values across the load cells and RPM gradient and this should get you a base map which should be within a spit. Oily

Make sure the TBS are matched at the flange face to the profile of your inlet ports, as cast they are fairly small, you may need to open them up a little, you may also want/need to drill the front body to take the water spout that leads to the header tank. The linkage as supplied sometimes needs some judicious bending to allow proper freedom of movement or it can be inclined to catch on the casting. Make sure you mount the throttle pot on the correct TB (the rear one) or it will open the wrong way round. I have a collection of maps here to suit the K engine in its various guises but only for the Emerald M3DK. Oily

Do you have trumpets underneath the filter(s)?, if you do then you need sufficient clearance between the trumpet end and the filter to allow unimpeded flow into the trumpet, I'd say you need a minimum of 30mm twixt end of trumpet and filter if its a foam filter and 50mm if its a solid backed one. Oily

darn thing... Edited by - oilyhands on 15 Apr 2001 22:26:48

D'oh! and again Edited by - oilyhands on 15 Apr 2001 22:26:08

database error again... sorry Edited by - oilyhands on 15 Apr 2001 22:25:26

please ignore, database error was posted Edited by - oilyhands on 15 Apr 2001 22:24:42

Tha accepted way of manually checking belt tension is to grasp the belt half way down the longest run and see if you can twist it 90 degrees, when the tension is correct you should just be able to do this with your fingertips, a bit 'rule of thumb (or fingers)' but it works. Oily

Offset dowels and keyways are all very well (and encouragingly inexpensive) but you have to remove the pulley to fit them , this usually involves removing the belt and tensioner which can be a ball-aching job. Well I remember filing that little slot in your cam sprocket Mr Windbag.. Oily

I suppose this comes down to the *extent* of the problem, modern EMSs do tend to dampen a closing throttle using the IACV in order to reduce hydrocarbon emmissions, if the soaring throttle has always been there and its not too excessive it may be the ECU doing what comes naturally, if it's a recent phenomenon and is *excessive* then it probably isnt normal and may warrant further investigation. oily

The K is renowned for sticking throttle bodies, the plastic body can easily distort and stop the butterfly from closing properly and rapidly, this can be exacerbated by the clip which attaches the filter to the TB, if it is overtightened it can pull the TB out of round. There are a variety of other possible causes, sticking throttle cable, sticking IACV, air leak, duff connection to TPS or other sensor, but I would check the TB first. oily

The reason for the difficulties in obtaining M3DKs until recently has been the complete redesign of the box to 32 bit operation and incorporation upgradability of the firmware for traction and launch control (coming soon) and control of the VVC mechanism (coming soon) all the new ECUs will be field upgradeable using flash ROM. The new M3Ds are now into production and should be generally available in quantity in the next 2-3 weeks. Oily

You dont just need them if the crank/cam relationship has changed, they are pretty much essential if you have changed the original cams for those with a different profile, its common for replacement cams to use a different lobe centre and for the profile to be ground innacurately WRT to the cam dowel. This can lead to valve timing well away from the manufacturers intentions if the standard pulleys are used. It's very rare indeed for an after market cam to be correctly timed when using the manufacturers standard pulleys and dowels even when the new and old cams share the same lobe centre. The vernier allows the timing of the cam to be accurately set to the optimum value in a controlled manner. Anyone who has set up a K engine on a dyno or rolling road will trstify to how sensitive the K is to cam timing, especially on the exhaust, without a vernier it would not be possible to make these changes. Without a vernier the minimum change is 18 degrees of rotation.. which is of course a large variation in timing and in terms of lift around 1.5mm. Oily Edited by - oilyhands on 11 Apr 2001 22:36:34

Strictly speaking most oil seals are directional, if you look carefully at the lip you will see some small raised ribs like a very loose spiral which are designed to encourage any oil which makes it past the lip straight back in again, these are similar to the oil retaining scrolls fitted to cranks before the days of reliable oil seals. These worked like an archamedian screw and moved the oil away from the seal point. Depending on the direction of these small ribs the turning oil will either be encouraged back to the seal or spun out of the seal, hence the need for a change of direction for the ribs depending on which end of the cam they are fitted. In practice if the cam surface is good, the seal is new and square in place it makes very little difference on a seal of that size, on a crank seal with pressurized oil just the other size and a larger diameter it can make a difference. Oily

Try this number 0207 274 5057 and this email KarlPaton@aol.com Oily

The anodised spacer is the blanking plate to cover where the VVC mechanism was, in order to mount a regular distributor cap it is necessary to rotate the cap a few degrees away from its normal position and move the distrubutor drive insert by the same amount. For what it's worth I have already asked Warren if it would be possible to premark the VCC blanking plate with a suggested position for the two holes, he says that it shouldnt be a problem, he will also give details of the number of degrees of movement necessary on the rotor arm holder. Oily