oilyhands
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Everything posted by oilyhands
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One way to preclude the popping and banging is to use massive advance on overrun, start the burn early so that although slow, it is complete before the exhust valve opens. Oily
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The patch lock is fine, it is there not to lock the bolt, but to seal the threads and prevent wicking of oil down the threads onto the clutch, I would not bother with extra loctite. By all means clean the threads on the crank. Oily
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The patch lock is fine, it is there not to lock the bolt, but to seal the threads and prevent wicking of oil down the threads onto the clutch, I would not bother with extra loctite. By all means clean the threads on the crank. Oily
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Multiple injector events aren't uncommon, a friend who calibrates Diesel engines mentioned that in some cases there can be as many as 17 injector events per cycle. Pretty sure the Emerald adds transient acceleration fuelling by extending injector duration rather than additional events. Oily
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Cracking work Andrew, takes me back to the good old days of disassembling PC BIOSs and hacking them. Looks like it could be a very useful tool indeed. Oily
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Be careful to get the right paper gasket as there are 3 different types, if you have difficulty in sourcing I stock a gasket that I have specifically designed for throttle bodies. I have butchered an Allen key to allow access to the obscured setscrews. Once the manifold is off, a little material can be removed from the underside of the rail to allow easier access to the obscured setscrews. by undoing the 4 setscrews that secure the rail by a few turns you may be able to manoeuvre the rail up a little to allow unhindered access to the obscured setscrews. Oily
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K series Auto to manual tensioner West Yorkshire
oilyhands replied to Fridybrydy's topic in TechTalk
You need two holes, one M10 x 1.5 28mm deep, one M6 x 1.25 x 16mm deep , I have a template that I use to allow correct placement. If you don't get the holes perfectly perpendicular to the surface (particularly the M10 hole) then you risk the bolt/setscrew coming undone. Drilling and tapping isn't easy given the constraints of the installation and the positions of the holes and of course the possible damage caused by any dropped swarf. If you have stock cams or supersport cams then the autot tensioner is adequate and you can now buy metal roller versions that do not suffer the roller distortions prevalent on the stock plastic ones. Oily -
Yup, they are early supersports.. Start them at.. 50 thou lift at TDC inlet 45 thou lift at TDC exhaust Oily.
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Very early SS cams had 8.8mm lift but longer duration and faster valve acceleration. If you can take a photo of one of the lobes from the side I can tell you if the cams are stock or SS. Oily
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AFAIK there is no forged piston fitted to 80mm bore K series engines that has a raised crown, the normal Omega pistons have a shallow dish and larger pockets than the stock cast pistons. Some times these forged pistons are machined flat on the top when fitted to 1600 engines to prevent contact between piston and head. The size of the pockets is an obvious way to differentiate them. Oily
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The inserts should be an interference fit in the guide , there are various types , the most popular being K-line inserts, the insert on that guide will need re-doing and the others checking, if they move in service all manner of carnage can result. Oily
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Ally is fine if the brackets just see occasional use, they will soon degrade if they are used on a regular basis. Oily
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Fleabay do some very good cheap digital DTI gauges (see item no. 173943235933) you only need 12mm range, you really need an analogue gauge with a needle for the TDC gauge (see item no. 163744473614) or its very easy to get confused over where TDC is. Oily
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What he said.. in my experience (850+ heads), the collets are pretty much welded to the caps and require a sharp tap with a loosening tool (made for the job) to release them, my tool holds any collets captive if they pop out. A bent valve is unlikely if you give the cap a sharp tap, but it is always a risk. I would lift the head.. Oily
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Pretty sure the thread is M10 x 1.5, when I attach the ai temp sensors to an airbox backplate I have to reform the thread to M10 x 1.25 with a die as the threads are too coarse for a regular M10 x 1.25 securing nut. Oily
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Thank looks like a good solution, well done. Oily
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Pretty sure it’s one of mine so it will be correctly dimensioned, it is quite tight but then it has to be as the housing expands when hot and it is a large diameter seal, in addition the housing/nacelle tends to slacken a little over time. Cemented in with silicone sealant on the flange and clamped it should stay in place. Oily
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Phil, I have a seal clamp here I can loan you, I can pack it with the pulley, sprocket and valves.. Oily
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I have a new pulley here Phil, and a couple of secondhand ones.. Oily
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If you fit n MLS gasket with shim, then the CR will drop to approximately the same level as before.. Oily
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The circlips problems with Minis are due to incorrect orientation, if the clips were inserted with the circlip gap at the side then the accelerative and decelerative forces tend to close the circlips slightly allow them to mislocate, if the gaps are oriented towards the top or bottom, this cannot happen. Circlips are used commonly on most racing engines with few issues. I have never experienced a cirlcip problem with Omega pistons in the 40+ years I have used them. Oily
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I just use a very long 1/4” drive extension with 8mm socket and ratchet. Never given a problem. Oily
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I doubt that would work as the juxtaposition of each TB against the other will vary as will the opening, they need to be bolted to the head in the correct alignment. 5,5KG/hr is the correct airflow at idle.
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You say that altering the fuelling in live adjustments made it much worse, that doesnt make any sense. If you reduce the fuelling sufficiently the engine will run lean and eventually stop running. During this adjustment there will come a point where the hydrocarbons drop through the floor and the NOx goes up. It’s unlikely that the point you are at now is the lowest the HC can go. Balance the TBs and set them so you have approximately 5.5kg /hr. This is the correct airflow for idle on your engine, Then adjust the fuelling with idle control switched off, as you lean off you will feel the engine start to stumble, at this point the fulling will be on the cusp of Stoi/lean and HC will be lower. Oily
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With stock cams and valve springs the spring tensioning method may work, but with more aggressive cams and stronger springs kick back from the valve train will be too strong to overcome with the spring. I always set the tension so that the long throw of the belt between the exhaust sprocket and the crank pulley can be turned through 90 degrees. Bin the spring it is a demon waiting to strike. Oily