oilyhands
-
Posts
4,389 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by oilyhands
-
As with all mechanical profiles, the shim thickness has to set for each valve. Oily
-
Sent... Oily
-
£100 is a bit light, as old core for reprofiling they are worth around £150. New cams are £635. They will suit your engine better than the VHPD ones when on a plenum, when you graduate to TBs the VHPDs would be a better bet. Shims are £3 a pop. Oily
-
You use all the standard valve train, caps, springs and converted followers.they are currently on fleabay at around £100 oily
-
EU3 but mechanical profile (I have shims too convert hydraulic followers here). Oilly
-
I'll measure the lift later, that will tell me.. Oily
-
Thanks Jonathan.. Oily
-
Electric powered sevenesque Childs car, suit 3 to 7 year old Home built and constructed with proper Ackerman angle steering. Powered by 12v drill (dewalt) , supplied with drill fitted and 3 1.3AH lithium batteries, battery adapter and optional 16AH lithium power pack. Will run from any DC 12v-14v power pack/battery, lead acid/NIMH/Nicad etc. Configured with reversing switch and adjustable throttle pedal position so as child grows adjustments can be made. Finished in black and silver. My grandchildren have sent many a happy hour driving this little car , but they are now too big to fit. There are a few little marks here and there as you would expect but the car functions perfectly and looks smart. Oily
-
I have the following bits for sale.. Pair of VHPD cams in good order Pair of Supersport cams in good order TF135/VVC exhaust cam combo, easy upgrade for a stock engine 1600 crankshaft with spigot bearing Open to reasonable offerd Oily
-
You would need a substantial boss to support an bleed screw and ideally you would need to draw air from inside the air filter envelope which would be hard to arrange. The TBS would need to be removed to facilitate this. An alternative would be to make a subtle modification to the hole through the TB bar. Oily
-
You just need to undo the two screws that locate the TPS, then it just pulls off, it may require a ;title effort and some wiggling, you *dont need* to undo the plate on the end of the TB, Oily
-
You may need to file the mount holes in the TPS in order to achieve the correct alignment. Oily
-
Have you checked the TPS alignment? AFAIK the 5 depressions of the throttle are for the Mems, not the MBE. Oily
-
K RTBs dont have air bleeds AFAIK, the only way would be some subtle mods to the barrels themselves. It might be worth doing a compression test to see if anything is awry between the cylinders. If you cant resolve the imbalance in absolute terms, then it is worth opening the rear TB to 6.5KG/HR so that the overall draw is the same between the front and rear TBs. Oily
-
You can buy backplates to take a JC40/50/65 type deep filter that are blank on eBay or at ATPower , you can then cut the appropriate holes to suit the Jenveys.
-
The stock Rover TPS is pretty reliable, a good quality OE style replacement would do the job, Eliseparts ,Rimmer brothers, or Brown and Gammons should be able to supply. Oily
-
Top scavenge pump bolt and underside the TB near the trumpets rather than further down near the head face. Oily
-
An Apollo mitigates against the effects of oil surge, although the pressure drops, oil is still delivered to the bearings, if only by gravity, without an Apollo the bearings can be starved of oil. It takes some time for the Apollo to completely empty itself when delivery from the pump fluctuates , in my experience, most engines without Apollos show signs of stress on the bearings and most with Apollos do not. Oily
-
NMS know the Emerald very well, it'll be obvious what the problems are once the software is connected. Oily
-
Lift at TDC for SS cams (hydraulic) is.. 50 thou LATDC inlet, 44 thou LATDC. If the idle is heavy at those figures, then back off by 5-10 thou (reduce the LATDC on both cams, retard the inlet, advance the exhaust). Oily
-
Some factory built cars have solid followers, just check to see if the cam lobes have a clearance to the followers, take off the cam cover, find a lobe that is pointing up and away from the follower and see of you can get a 4 thou feeler gauge between cam lobe and follower, if you can they are solid, another good indicator is that solid followers usually have a dull grey ring around the peripheral of the top like a polo mint, this is the original patina left over when the follower was hardened. The cams do not wipe the whole surface but leave a tell tale ring. Oily
-
If you have hydraulic followers then those figures are as quoted, if you have solid followers (check if there is a clearance between base of the lobe and follower) then the values are 59 thou and 47 thou lift at TDC for inlet/exhaust respectively. I will be gobsmacked if the existing timing is anywhere near, please publish what you find for general information. Oily
-
Supersport cams (hydraulic profile), should be 50 / 44 thou lift at TDC, in my experience they are always a country mile out because they are designed to run on a different lobe centre than the stock cams and the stock pulleys are for the stock 110 lobe centre, the slack in the system also retards the cams by 4-6 degrees compounding the error. On average SS cams as installed have around 10 thou lift at TDC on the inlet and 65 on the exhaust which is around 8 degrees retarded on both cams. I keep 15 degree(1 tooth) offset dowels in stock, these can be rotated to give any offset between + and - 15 degrees, they are a pain to setup, but have the benefit of being relatively inexpensive. The tip to shim the bottom sprocket is a good one.. Oily
-
Ensure it has a metal impellor and an EVAP chamber, Oily
-
In my experience it is unusual for sump gaskets to leak, I would check the crank seal very carefully and the bottom of the bell housing to see if the oil is from the first motion shaft seal. If it's gearbox oil then you should be able to smell the difference. Remove the foam and if you are changing the sump gasket buy one with my suggested extra drain holes (I keep them in stock if you can't find them elsewhere). Looking at the sump at the rear, the section of mating flange on the sump that mates with the block looks mighty thin where the recess is on the left hand side... Oily
