rpaulgreaves

Hello Everyone, My 1.8 K-series developed an engine oil leak towards the end of last year. There is no oil dripping down when the car is just sat in the garage, but after a run there are drops spattered on the outside of the drivers footwell and the back of the sump is wet. Oil appears to be coming out around the joint between the sump and the block just next to an opening to the flywheel. I assume that air passing this opening is drawing out leaking oil onto the back of the footwell when the car is driven. So, I've dropped the sump and oil appears to be leaking down from the gasket joint at the back of the engine into the small cavity at the back of the sump (see photo below). I have have had a good look around the rear crankshaft oil seal which I understand can develop leaks, but it all looks nice and dry as is the flywheel (see next photo below). The engine is the original one supplied with the car. It was manufactured in 2004, but has only done just over 3000 miles from new as it took me nearly 10 years to get the car on the road (long story!). It has had annual oil changes since it went into service in 2013. I know this topic has been covered before on Techtalk, but I was surprised that this has happened at such a low mileage. It looks like a simple gasket change to fix the leak, but I would really appreciate it if anyone can offer any thoughts or advice. Thanks.

Thanks again everyone. Currently researching alternatives to the standard set up as per your suggestions. I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers Paul

Thanks for your feedback everyone. RJ, your comment that the thread is tapered did make me check. It isn't and presumably the sender would not be supplied with a copper washer to seal it if it were. It would make fitting simpler though if it were! Sounds like these senders can be troublesome and they are quite expensive. Mine's only done 1800 miles! I think I'll investigate a remote sensor/mechanical gauge. Does anyone have any experience of the bespoke Demon Tweeks kit to fit a mechanical gauge and low pressure warning light, complete with all the fittings and hoses, to a Seven? Thanks again. Paul

Hi Everyone, I'm having a problem replacing the oil pressure gauge sender on my 2003 K-Series 140 X-Power. It all started with a flickering oil pressure reading, particularly when hot. Occasionally, the reading disappearing to zero! From all the background I read, it seemed that the sender was a good place to start. I duly ordered a new unit from Caterham, but, when I tried to fit it in to the oil filter assembly, it would not screw in far enough to clamp the copper washer supplied with it. It would have needed about 3 washers to close the gap. Obviously, not a good idea! The problem appears to be that the new unit does not have a thread cut all the way down to the hexagon section. This can be seen in the attached photo in comparison with the old unit. I returned the new unit to Caterham and, apparently, all of the rest of their stock was the same so they have returned them to the supplier. They have now placed an order for a new batch of correctly made units. I have also tried a couple of other suppliers. One had stock the same as Caterham's. There was a more promising unit from the other one which had more thread, but it was stiil around 1mm short of screwing fully into the oil filter assembly. It looks like I need to wait for a replacement unit from Caterham, but in the meantime I wondered if anyone else had had a similar experience with this oil pressure gauge sender and, if so, how did they fix it. Cheers Paul

Hi Colin - Thanks for the update. Some experimentation this weekend I think! Cheers Paul

Thanks everyone for your replies. Colin - Like your idea of using the slings in conjunction with the load leveller, but could I ask where underneath the engine you position them? The bottom of the engine is pretty flat so what is to stop the slings slipping off when it's tipped up at 40 degrees ready for installation? Cheers Paul G

Just done a trial lifting of my complete 'K' series engine and gearbox prior to installation in the car for the first time. I'm using a Machine Mart Load Leveller as seems to be recommended by many with the two chains at the front and the two at the back each fastened to the standard lifting eyes using a shackle. It all worked well whilst the engine was level, but when trying to tip it to the recommended 30-40 degrees gearbox end down, the front chains pulled on the front lifting eye at an increasing angle. Eventually the lifting eye bent in-plane quite severely and I abandoned the trial for fear of it breaking. It all seems to be caused by the fact that the load leveller is too long. As lots of people have reported success with the load leveller, I feel I must be doing something wrong. Did anyone else have a similar problem and if so how did you fix it? Paul G ☹️