Drumster

So I have to ask why you purchased them in the first place?

I've been using Mintex 1144 for 16 years (c.40,000 miles) for road, track & hillclimbs and have never noticed excessive dust or any squealing but then I did follow the bedding in procedure as recommended by Mintex. I changed from EBC Greenstuff which (from memory) produced a lot more dust. IMO the bedding in procedure is hardly onerous; 3-4 light applications from 30-0mph and 6-7 steady applications from 70-30mph and leave to cool completely. Then will then work well from cold. Surely it's a simple case of when buying a product follow the manufacturers guidelines....

Yep, entries full by 9.20am!

It must be so tempting to unload it when he's not looking

Tony, did you resolve why you entered Class 2 as car no. 56 for both days? Was this so you could secure a 1st place as the only entry on the Sunday

My 29 year old fuel sender and gauge seem pretty reliable.... Full down to 3/4 the needle is steady 3/4 to 1/4 needle is trying the break free from the dial as it swings about 1/4 to E needle remains steady again and it means I have 14 litres left.

Many years ago my silencer was bouncing off the tarmac going over the Pont de Normandie on way home from Le Mans. Temporarily repaired with stainless steel wire. Since then I've used a rather large bobbin that has yet to show signs of failing (oops,that's done it). Bobbin size is 50mm h x 40mm w

Fair point well made... Caterham use tends to be either sprint/hillclimb in UK or touring abroad and very little in between

I thought you wanted the weight of the tool box......

I fitted a small tool box in front of the bulkhead secured by 4 rivnuts/screws in the shelf and 2 long bolts/penny washers through the bulkhead. (rigidity and security has been accident-tested) In this I used to carry an over-the-top number of spares (see list below) which I haven't used but have helped a number of others over the years. [attachment=21927:name] Throttle cable inner Alternator belt Alternator strap Spark plugs Oil/water sender Fuses Various relays x 3 Ignition switch Battery master switch Bulbs Radiator cap Oil Thermostat Paper gaskets Brake light switch Fan switch Exhaust & radiator bobbins Exhaust bracket Sump plug Wheel nuts & washers Cable ties (all sizes) Jubilee clips Duct tape Miscellaneous fixings, wire & connectors Insulating tape Velcro roll Quicksteel Glue WD40 (small aerosol) Front wheel bearing kit Tyre repair kit Aluminium tape Spanner roll (metric) Mini spanners Allen keys (metric) Tyre pressure gauge Tyre valve tool Magnetic pick tools x 2 Mini pliers x 5 Then in a tool tube (secured on the cross-member under the nose cone): Towing strap Leatherman/Gerber tool Mini, medium & large adj. spanners Ratchet handle Short & long extensions 16,18,19mm sockets Mole grips Water pump pliers Stubby screwdrivers x 2 Screwdriver & bits And finally in the boot: Halfords mini pro tool kits x 2 Multimeter Goodness knows how much that lot weighed

When I rebuilt my '93 Supersprint there wasn't anything like that aluminium hoop so not sure it's necessary..... Sorry, can't help with the wiper motor as that was ditched tenty years ago.

The red lens also disintegrate as a result of petrol spillage, leaving 2 polo sized bits of lens surrounding the screws. Been there done that

In 20 years of touring abroad I've never bothered with beam deflectors on the 7, just tweaked the bowls.

Alan, yhm

Alan, remember every day's a school day

Alan, I have a set of instructions at home I'll dig them out tomorrow. From memory it's just a few suitably sized o-rings that need replacing and, of course, some jack oil

Alan, I can't specifically answer your questions but I fitted a Sterling Excel/Toad immobiliser in 2007 and to date I've not had any problems.

Entry system is up and running now.......

Yep, Error code 4722

2nd thoughts, can we stick with T2

Alan, Some of us (maybe all of us) had a T3 on Sunday and the times haven't been included. Is this correct?

You're welcome

Excellent 'slimline' version of the brackets compared to mine

#7 now I understand . I simply use this Ring fog light and its reversing equivalent and dispense with the metal bracket supplied and then use one long bolt to join the barrels on the chassis and the respective light.

Interesting, as when Arch added these to my car in 2007 they simply brazed on two small barrels (rather than flat steel with a rolled end) so assumed it was always done this way?