garybee
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Everything posted by garybee
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You won't cause an explosion with a cheap endoscope for the same reason fuel pump electrical connections aren't insulated. I've also used expensive endoscopes in explosive environments. Most of the time they're only required due to rules/procedures, not risk.
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Found a few K series parts when clearing shelves in the garage. May be of use to someone as spares so before I bin them... SOLD - Alternator, grubby but was working fine in a ZR160 that I stripped for spares a while ago. £10 + postage if anyone would like it. - SOLD Also a 48mm throttle body complete with throttle position sensor. £10 + postage
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The bushes on the body end of the damper look difficult to replace. It's not a straight bore but a lot narrower in the centre than the outer ends.
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I disassembled a broken one recently and was very surprised by the state of the insides (very clean, no noticeable wear despite being 16 years old). I'd be interested to know if these are pre-charged or if the pressure in the gas chamber is raised purely by the reduction in volume during assembly (you have to push a cap down the cylinder to fit a retaining circlip). There doesn't appear to be any provision for charging the gas chamber (valve etc.).
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Thanks Dave, I suspected that's how it was supposed to be but the difference between that and the VVC plenum had me doubting it. I suppose that plenum is the performance version though so they put a bit more effort in. I'll probably just make up a couple of bushes with an offset centre hole (eccentric top-hat) so that they can be rotated to align for 'best fit'. Appreciate the extra info too, very generous of you. Ta muchly
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Yep, misfire will do the same too eventually. And you already know that you had that issue.
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Yes I have a spare, PM inbound shortly.
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No specialist needed then. Although a car mechanic that knows how to do more than replace components until the fault goes away is almost rare enough to be referred to as a specialist
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Probably one in my garage. Can you post a picture of yours so we can make sure we're talking about the same part?
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Should there be a spacer/bush in the mounting holes of the inlet manifold to ensure decent port alignment? I have a couple of spare aluminium plenums in my garage and they have holes only slightly larger than the 8mm mounting bolts. The plastic plenum has a brass bush that is far larger than the bolts and looks like it would allow a huge degree of movement between it and the head with no guarantee of reasonable port alignment. Is there something missing?
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Has anyone tried to run the plastic plenum on a VVC 160 engine? Obviously the inlet tracts would need opening up (could be borderline on material to do so without encroaching on the seal groove). Interested as it could allow the VVC engine to be fitted without lowering/reducing ground clearance. I'm unsure if the VVC actuator would then foul the bonnet instead of the plenum.
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What ECU do you have fitted? Makes a big difference to who you need.
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K series emissions are no different to any other modern petrol engine. As yours is EU3 it'd be easiest to just get a fault code reader and work it out yourself. There is a lot of information in generic OBD data and looking at fuel trims/lambda is often very revealing. You shouldn't have to but good mechanics are so rare that that's the reality of the situation.
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I've just nipped out to the garage to look at my spare engine. It has a water rail and manifold on it and I can't see the water rail stopping the manifold coming off. It's a little close at the rear but not in the way. Even if yours is there's no reason not to put a couple of nuts on it and see it it turns out. Why assume it's corroded into the head when you can check in seconds?
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Have you tried running without the alternator drive belt to rule out it/the alternator?
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Ian, Thank you for clarifying. I probably should have added a smiley or two, post was in jest. Gary
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Well, you've already been offered the one you don't want a couple of times so I'd like to get in on the action too. I have 2 spare silencers from K-series short primary systems. Can't let you have the manifold though as that's on my spare engine. I'd send you a BM but I feel bad enough about posting this on your thread and can't bring myself to do it. Cheers Gary
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Great as an interim solution but it would frustrate me having to do that instead of re-plumbing to allow the thermostat to function correctly.
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OG - do your current straps have the link that allows you to strap the car down by the wheels?
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PHOTOS ADDED - Fuel hose - time to check yours !
garybee replied to 7 wonders of the world's topic in TechTalk
Are you sure it's rated for constant contact at high pressure? edit: Well, it's been a couple of days and he's gone strangely silent so I'll answer this for him. For anyone reading this that's thinking of using that to plumb your fuel system, please don't. It isn't rated for high pressure or constant contact so it's likely to let go and spray your engine bay with petrol. -
PHOTOS ADDED - Fuel hose - time to check yours !
garybee replied to 7 wonders of the world's topic in TechTalk
Yes, the Gates hose you linked to is a much lower price per metre. I linked to that one in case someone needed a shorter length. Also, I'm not saying that there aren't any counterfeits of Codan hose out there but all the disintegrating hoses I have seen seem to have 'Gates' marked on them. It could of course be genuine but still junk but I suspect it isn't. I wouldn't use the silicone hose because I don't believe it's suitable at all, not just because of its handling properties. -
PHOTOS ADDED - Fuel hose - time to check yours !
garybee replied to 7 wonders of the world's topic in TechTalk
I wouldn't suggest using that for fuel hose. You'll be safe with this one:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mocal-Codan-SAE-J30-R9-High-Pressure-Rubber-Fuel-Hose-7-9mm-ID-per-Metre/303349613164?hash=item46a10bc26c:g:9uMAAOSwZf5dzQqT -
Big, sharp flat-bladed screwdriver against the side of the cap near the hub. Angle it so the tip is pointing a little away from the car and give the other end a whack with a hammer. It'll bite and make the cap tilt a little. Repeat on the other side.
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I'd expect his car to run open loop only so no lambda required after mapping.
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I'd expect it to run fine at 11.7v but I suspect you're zeroing in on your problem here. I certainly wouldn't be looking at anything the ECU is doing until you've got to the bottom of what's happening with the alternator.