garybee
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Everything posted by garybee
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I've worked on a Hurricane and have done quite a bit with Sevens (obviously). Have carried out quite a few repairs on BBMF's aircraft. Back on the spotted subject, there's a few Sevens out this way but realistically I've always considered the whole 'spotted' thing more for the areas where there're a lot more owners.
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If you're just after flashy laptiming (accurate speed at any point of your lap etc.) I can recommend Racechrono (android app) with an external GPS. I have a 10Hz bluetooth GPS I use with an old android phone. It's very reliable and overlays your position on track onto a map. It even has most tracks built in so it gives correct sector times. I don't know how to upload screenshots so can't show you an example but I'm sure you can find it on Google play store. You're welcome to borrow my GPS unit if you want to give it a try. I just put it in the tail unit of my bike and leave it running all day so there's no faff before sessions.
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Testing will focus on the ability of the coolant system to carry heat away from an engine. I don't agree that using an engine is the best way to do this. I'm leaning more towards a more consistent heat source, possibly an electric heating element, much easier to measure how much heat is being dissipated that way.
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I think this is the source of a lot of the difference of opinion. We all look at the coolant gauge as that is our only source of information about engine temperature. What we really care about however is the temperature of the block and cylinder head. I suspect that we will find that this is higher with Evans.
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Auyt - Thanks for that. I will make sure to post details of my intended setup for comment before I do it. I think it would be nice to hear any comments about shortfalls/oversights beforehand. I don't think the type of radiator is too critical however, so long as it is the same for all coolant tested. I'm quite looking forward to doing this actually, maybe we can have a bit of fun with it and hopefully avoid the usual internet unpleasantness.
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I'm looking forward to leaving my current job next year. That'll give me lots of time for other projects, one of which will be measuring how effective this stuff is as a coolant. I figure a couple of big lumps of aluminium (preheated and with a few thermocouples mounted), a small coolant circuit (also with measured temp) and pump will quickly show how good a coolant it is. I have a very strong suspicion about what it will show (even their claims are mostly obvious nonsense) but it's always nice to test for definitive proof of course.
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If you generally only work on a couple of types of engines (therefore not needing to cope with lots of different sized pistons) it would be fairly easy to turn a tube of the correct diameter with an internal chamfer near the end to help get the rings started. If I was doing this I'd want to start with a large, thick-walled pipe. Edit: ^ That's a better idea.
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I thought about going the casting route but low numbers make that route a bit uneconomical. If I go with a fabricated design I can incorporate the shelf (in the Caterham gasket) into the top flange. That way you'll be able to use the cheap Rover gasket. Obviously I'll also include the standard mod of a couple of holes to help oil return to the sump. There are a couple of other improvements I'll make at the same time to guard against surge (not a big block of foam).
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Thanks for the link. I had spotted that but as it's leak free I thought I'd leave it for someone who needed a good one. A ruined one will do for my purposes so was hoping that there would be a smashed one hanging around in a garage somewhere. Ta though
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Thanks for the message Tom. Still looking for a knackered sump if anyone has one available.
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If anyone has a damaged K-series sump they'd like to sell for a reasonable price I'd be interested in buying it. I'm pricing up having a batch of parts plasma cut and it would be nice to have a template without taking the one off my spare engine.
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A bench test for that failure would be a little tricky as it hasn't actually snapped. I suppose it wouldn't be too hard to knock something up using an old cam pulley and see at what torque the teeth stripped off the belt. Edit: Any signs of overheating on the plastics on the front of the engine? I'm sure you've already thought of all this of course but had to ask.
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Yes, I was struggling to find that one to post a picture of though. I figured that nobody would have any difficulty with spotting this one as it's separate to the main can. Here it is:- There's also the option of 'cat in can' aftermarket exhausts too of course but there's no standard with these so more difficult to tell. Unlike the exhaust in the top picture you will be able to see by looking down the front of course.
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It's under the heat shield on a K-series car with the single pipe through the side skin. The catalyst is welded to the front of the silencer though so it's pretty obvious. I'll add a picture in a mo. Edit: Ta-daa! The obvious section that is welded on at the front of the wider portion is the cat'. Edit 2: Does this mean it's a good time to advertise the couple of spare ones I have in my garage?
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If I was somewhere with one from each manufacturer on the shelf I wouldn't pick a Continental belt, probably because I don't think of them as a manufacturer of car parts (other than tyres). If they were the only option available however I would have felt perfectly safe fitting it. I wouldn't expect a big name like Continental to release a product that wasn't up to the job. The rev limit's a bit higher than standard of course but nothing silly. I presume you've checked the bearings on the cams, tensioner and water pump and there's nothing funny going on there?
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What brand was the belt? Also interested in what your rev limit is set at?
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All the flow needs to go through the ports on the sandwich plate. If you block them with sensors there'll be no flow to your engine. Easy way is to use the spare port on the filter take-off. I steered someone that way a few months ago on here.
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There is oil in the gearbox isn't there? Only asking as you haven't got the prop fitted.
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Fuel issues are easy to rule out with a blast of easy start down the inlet. As you have no spark I'd be looking at loom/coil/ecu connections and earth straps though. The best way to start would be to ensure the coils are receiving a signal but you'll need an oscilloscope for that. If in any doubt about the spark, start with the easy start.
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I have a spare Caterham Duratec lightweight flywheel if you're interested.
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"I would have thought that if it was propshaft it would be noticeable in lower gears at high revs. It would not necessarily be road speed related ..." Why's that? The prop increases speed in direct proportion to road speed.
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Thank you very much. With the offset figure coming from a different person to the pictures I'd be concerned of the possibility of ending up with the wrong thing. I appreciate the offer though
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7 wonders - What offset do you have on the rear please and is there any chance you have a picture?
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I've found a company that do very similar looking wheels to the minatour 'minilight' wheels. I was planning to get a pair of wider rears to match the fronts in an offset to fill the arches a bit more. I could look at buying a set if anyone else is interested in the other pair.
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What does the hose that goes forward from the cam cover terminate at? Does it go to the throttle body? I can't see all the bits in your pictures to be sure but I expect all you need is to connect your cam cover to the inlet plenum. There's usually a small S-shaped hose that does this in the Rover install (where your plenum is blanked off). I'd need to see a little more to be sure though. The K-series system is simpler than most as it doesn't use a PCV valve, it has a restrictor instead to limit the vacuum draw on the crankcase at idle (when vacuum in the plenum is at its highest). Revilla posted a good diagram a few years ago that I can't find.