garybee
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Everything posted by garybee
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Fordy's box will presumably have a long input shaft if it's been fitted to a k series. I'd expect you to need a short input shaft to mate to a zetec. You can make this work but worth knowing it won't bolt straight up.
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I'd like to buy this please. Is there any chance you would consider delivery? Hermes have lots of drop off points and are very cheap. Happy to pay the extra of course.
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I prefer the way you did it actually. The only reason I suggested the 'stud' was that it wouldn't require you to modify the rad'. I tend to avoid fitting parts in a way that could potentially give suppliers a 'get-out' in the event their product turns out to be junk. That's just the pessimist in me though. It's good that Oakmere are happy for you to modify it to allow easy fitment.
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Assuming the bobbins have a female thread... make a stud, thread stud into bobbin, use a nut behind the bracket.
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I'm not sure what you mean by 'hub face to flange'. That would be 0 surely. Also, are you measuring with the tyre fitted and resting on the ground? If so have you taken account of the amount the wheel is raised by the tyre?
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patibbitts - don't get worried about it being referred to as 'click of death'. As I said, it's nothing worse than a failure to pass sufficient current in part of the starter circuit or a sticky starter solenoid. It's an extremely simple circuit that's very easy to test. just make sure you're using a test light that draws a good bit of current (headlamp bulb in a holder is ideal) as a multimeter may lead you astray (just because you're receiving voltage doesn't mean a connection is good enough to pass current).
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There's nothing 'death' about a K-series 'click, no start'. It's just a failure to get good power to the starter, not a sign of anything more serious.
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The remaining items wouldn't be anything I'd suspect anyway. At this point I would be inclined to cut the car's supply and earths out of the equation by temporarily splicing into the loom to supply good powers and grounds with temporary separate cables.
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Very surprised it's not the ECU after what you've shown but agree...almost sod all chance of 2 duff ECUs. Apologies if this has already been answered but... Does it occur if you run the engine with various sensors unplugged? Can you run with the minimum connected, see if it still happens then introduce sensors until it starts (assuming not present with minimum inputs connected)? Edit: PS, I don't like this approach but without knowing more about the IACV strategy it might be the best way.
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Didn't you make a crank sensor simulator recently? Can you hook up the powers and grounds on the bench then feed it an increasing crank signal whilst monitoring the IACV pin?
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I expected so but just wanted to check you weren't measuring the voltage diff between the ECU power and the battery post. You're clearly too clever for that but it's easy to get focussed on something and miss a fundamental. I had an ECU failure a couple of years ago that caused erratic operation of the IACV. This was only when running open loop on warm-up though. This happened immediately after I'd removed the loom from the bulkhead area. I'd missed the earth connection near the ECU and it must have caused an internal failure. My point is if you've verified the inputs and the outputs are erratic maybe the next step is to swap out the ECU. This was easy with my EU3 1.6 academy car of course but might not be with an EU2 supersport.
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Where are you probing for the voltage being supplied to the ECU? Are you measuring the power and ground at the ECU connector?
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Just give it a blast of easy start next time it's been stood for a while. If it's a fuel problem it will start straight away. It'll save you a lot of time guessing and wondering if it's fuel or spark. If it is fuel you're then looking at losing fuel pressure or the ECU not triggering the injectors. The 1st is easy to rule out with a cheap fuel pressure gauge (a very handy tool worth owning). The 2nd is starting to get a little more in depth but don't worry about that unless you have to. I would suggest starting your diagnosing with the easy start.
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You don't have to. Leave them broken and keep buying new ones if you like, makes no difference to me.
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It's a very easy job to solder in a replacement microswitch when it starts to play up. The original one has a big disc on the top of the button but you can replace it with a normal one for a few pence.
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Hi Steve, I have lots of K Series install bits, PM inbound.
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That's an interesting email, nice to see they're not treating you like a moron with their questions.
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Will remain a mystery then. I'd only just seen this thread, I presume you are no longer interested in sensor types. In case you are I have standard EU3 1.6 and EU3 VVC engines and looms in my workshop. I removed these myself so am certain that they are unmodified.
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Surely that can only have been functioning as a blank.
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There are loads of sealants (Doublebond might do Elie) that would seal that up for a while. I'd expect that crack to propogate though so it would likely be a short term solution. If it was an older car and I wanted to wait until the end of the summer I'd probably give it a really good clean then glue on an aluminium patch with a fuel-resistant sealant.
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Doesn't that mean it could just be turned down to fit the 1600 ring gear though?
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What changes have you made to your charging system to accommodate an AGM battery?
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The weep from the bottom hose won't be causing your airlock. The pressure is greater in the coolant system than where it's leaking to, so the flow will only go one way. If your system is airlocking itself I would suggest a chemical test for combustion gasses in the coolant.
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Carbon would be a bad choice to make a floor out of (particularly on a 7) due to it's poor impact resistance.