garybee
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Everything posted by garybee
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As it's broken in use (as opposed to snapped during removal) there's a good chance that the remaining part is free in the threads and just needs spinning out. I'd try a blob of araldite on the end of a piece of dowel. You may find it just spins out with your fingers. If that doesn't work pilot drill it (carefully) through the hole then see if you can get a big left handed drill bit to bite.
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As it started happening at the same time as you fitted a new alternator I'd be wondering if it was related. Have you checked the voltage with the car running? Have you disconnected the alternator (run just from the battery for a short while) to see if it runs the same?
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The GPS in a gopro is pretty good, I believe the sample rate is about 15 Hz which is plenty for any of our needs. It's also nice to have a track overlay on your videos which the gopro does without any syncing of files afterwards. I also have a separate GPS receiver which pairs with an android phone/racechrono app. This has sector times, lap times etc etc with all the major tracks (and lots of minor ones). You can use this app to start logging and start the gopro all from one place. I figure it's all ok so long as it's fitted somewhere where you can't see it whilst driving.
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Maybe a good solution would be to add a zipped or velcroed opening to the boot cover. That way everything could be secured down properly at the front and your harnesses could go wherever you liked. If you get an opening added that is roughly 'L' shaped then access would be better than current too. In fact I think I'll get this done to mine, a zip would be better than faffing with poppers. Edit: can't see this costing more than £20 or £30.
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They've all probably taken a huge hit this year and are continuing to do so. Assuming their costs haven't gone up (big assumption) I would imagine things like this are most likely to be a desperate attempt to reduce losses for the year. I've booked a couple of track days at Cadwell and am ignoring the slight price rises as I would imagine they could do with us cutting them a break right now. So long as they don't kick the arse out of it I don't mind.
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Yes, once up to temp the reading should oscillate between lean and rich with the [narrow band] sensor in your engine. I would also check Air Inlet Temp figures (do this before starting your engine) are realistic and roughly reflect the actual air temp. Have a look at your long term and short term fuel trims at idle and at 3500(ish) RPM. This will give you evidence of intake leaks. Don't get hung up on the heater code, all that will be causing you is a slight delay in going between open and closed loop running. I can highly recomment the 'Torque' app (android phones) and a compatible bluetooth OBD2 adaptor.
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The heater is there for start up to get the sensor working quickly. Once it's up to temp the sensor stays hot regardless of engine load. If the sensor heater was at fault you would only have problems for the 1st couple of minutes after starting from cold. As yours is EU3 have you plugged in to an OBD diagnostics to see if the ECU has recorded a fault? That may give you some guidance. Don't just look for fault codes though, you need to look at the output from the sensor once it's up to temp. Can advise once you have a fault code reader. What spec is your car?
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OCD does seem to be an issue.
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I never refitted the knee panels, there're sharper bits under there that I'm much more likely to make contact with in my opinion. In fairness though once you've fitted the captive nuts for the aeroscreen/windscreen there's no reason not to put them back. I'd fit them with screws instead of rivets though for easier access. The fuse box cover on mine is just a plastic box on some velcro tape, is yours more elaborate? I'd look at the blue book for advice on the kill switch shroud/eyebrow.
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That's exactly what I've ordered for mine too.
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'Presto' book at post #61 is a good reference, the ZEUS book is also handy to keep in your toolbox and what I've used for years:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/RDGTOOLS-ZEUS-CHART-LATEST-REVISION/dp/B00S9SVESM/ref=pd_lpo_60_t_0/260-1572486-7530339?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00S9SVESM&pd_rd_r=a1df8e18-30ae-43e6-ad28-a10f24e0b434&pd_rd_w=o8wFt&pd_rd_wg=krFYT&pf_rd_p=7b8e3b03-1439-4489-abd4-4a138cf4eca6&pf_rd_r=2ZSYQYGCA9SWR5REANRS&psc=1&refRID=2ZSYQYGCA9SWR5REANRS I wasn't aware of an android app, sounds interesting.
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Thank you
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Mine's an ex academy car, seems odd that it had a heater. Maybe they all did for all I know
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Mine has a removable section (about 18" wide, L-shaped when viewed from the side) that gives access through the bulkhead. Gives some limited access to the wiring without removing the scuttle. I thought they were all like this until I saw the pictures above.
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I usually just put a large crowbar or breaker bar across the studs when doing hub nuts on cars. Never had a problem doing it that way.
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For sale - a pair of black 7" headlamps. Good condition, some small marks but no damage. No idea what these are currently worth so will start at £60. No longer available, now listed elsewhere
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I hadn't even thought there was a possibility of them being metric, was sure it would be an imperial thread pattern. I've just checked and they are an m5 thread. It also appears that the edge of the glass starts between 6 and 7mm from the surface. With the stanchion being 6mm thick and the heads slightly recessed it should be safe to use a 5mm x 10mm long countersunk screw (in case anyone is looking for this in the future). Thanks Stu.
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Does anyone have any details for the size of the screws that attach the windscreen to the stanchions please? I've searched but had no joy despite finding a few threads on the subject.
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This is the listing I purchased from on ebay:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-mm-Carbon-Fibre-EFFECT-ABS-sheet-600-mm-x-400-mm-Car-trims-Dashboards-models/361721851782?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I went with 2mm but I'm only needing to curve it in a single plane. The bow protectors in brighton's post are a compound curve so it appears that it's possible with 1mm ABS. I'mm heat up an offcut of the 2mm sheet when I get it and see how much it will mould if you like.
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Like it. As a result I've just ordered some to make a couple of rear wing protectors. I was going to buy or make some in carbon but that'll be far quicker and probably better for impact resistance.
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I think it's better if I just hand it over to you then. I have no desire to tread on any toes so it's all yours.
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A 3D printed part wouldn't have the strength required with such little wall thickness. The bonds between the layers would fail.
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I see what you mean now. That would mean the new part would need to be a loose fit on the rod though. It might need a redesign to do that as there isn't much spare material to open the hole out.
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Appreciate that but I'd rather send them out with that bit done so it's ready to just be bolted on.
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Well, the stl files being hosted makes things easier. I printed one off earlier, took about 1h30min. Damned if I can upload a picture though, it used to work but doesn't seem to want to at the mo. edit: if there's enough call I'll buy some brass rod and fasteners and send them out as kits.