garybee

That's a good bit cheaper than mine will be. He should buy that.

The crimped hoses aren't an issue. Under the crimp is a barbed connector so once the crimp is cut off you can secure the hose with a standard hose clip. SM25T - Does the installation include a swirl pot after the pump?

ACE was one of the 2 suppliers I ordered from. The worst aspect about selling anything on an internet forum Mark w is people who want to complain about your advert. They don't want to buy but decide that for some reason they don't want anyone else to either. Colin - my apologies for the derailment of your sale, hopefully Mark w will let it continue without further interference.

Apologies for the wait. Just been out to check a moment ago. I have a spare spare LHS mount which you are welcome to but unfortunately only 1 RHS mount. Well, I have 1 dry sump and 1 wet sump mount but I presume you require one or the other so both of them equate to 1 mount . If you want a RHS mount and are willing to wait a little while I can knock up a jig from the one I have and make you one. I've been meaning to get round to this for a while so don't mind an incentive to move it further up the list.

I ordered 2 sets from eBay, both from reputable companies. Despite what the listing said an alternative pad was supplied each time. Using eBay listings to adversely criticise the OP's price isn't fair on him. It seems a fair price to me knowing that the linked listing is probably incorrect.

Sorry, was busy all day today and have now sat down to drink beer. Will definitely check tomorrow. Nearly definitely.

What counts as 'budget'? I've just replaced the engine in a 2008 Pathfinder. I only bought it as it was nearby and cheap and haven't decided what to do with it yet.

I'm sure i have at least one set of spare engine mounts. I'll dig them out tomorrow and get back to you.

Haven't done it on a Duratec myself but have on other engines. Injector blanks are easy to make on a lathe, I've made quite a few of these for Duratecs. Just a small 'top hat' piece of aluminium with a groove for an O-ring. For the ignition it's way easier than finding ways to drive a dizzy. Do a quick google for Megajolt. Other alternatives are available but this works fine and is very well priced. You can use it to drive your current ignition components.

I wouldn't bother looking for noises if I knew the engine was touching the chassis. As you've said though, It'll be fine to run for a short while without a rad' so long as there's water in it. The engine mount must be really trashed if it's allowing the engine to sit that far out. It has to be worth changing that before looking further. Or is it touching because it's bent?

I also have mine mounted beneath the bar. I made a bracket to attach the gopro to the front of the cage cross, gives a more 'driver's eye' view (with Tillets and lowered floors).

Are you sure they're not just the normal Tillet spacers that have become stuck to the floor?

It could potentially be that they just didn't do a good job flushing it and some of the previous coolant is still in there. As above, oil in the coolant would emulsify and have mayonnaise-like mess in there. Unless it dumps the lot in in which case it turns into a giant chocolate milk shake. You'd know if that happened though. I've had good luck with Forte engine flush for cleaning out cooling systems. Manky systems that have been a mess of emulsified oil and water have run perfectly clear after running a bottle of that through them.

That's been 3d printed. You've got to be careful designing 3d printed parts to ensure that the layer bonds aren't put in tension. It looks like Woog haven't been.

You'll struggle with the tubes that come with it. They're all too flexible so you can't tell when you're at the bottom of the sump. You need something semi rigid ideally that you can attach to the inlet side.

You could always go about this the other way. If you're approaching a time where you won't need the car for a while remove the current floor and measure the opening in the chassis. I'll get round to making a lowered passenger floor at some point and this is probably what I'll do. You know it will fit then.

Very easy, just swap the battery no programming required. From memory I believe it's a CR2032. Very common button cell available anywhere. Worth keeping a couple of spares.

No audible continuity tester on that one. That is a feature that's a real pain if absent.

Not a fan myself, too easy to miss that it's changed its units when you're upside down in a footwell trying to keep a contact on the probe tip. If two meters were otherwise identical I'd avoid the auto ranging one. Personal preference of course.

For general automotive use this takes some beating:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNI-T-DIGITAL-UT210E-100Amp-600V-AC-DC-CLAMP-METER-Multimeter-True-RMS-VFC-diode/283882488770?hash=item4218b703c2:g:CWgAAOSwXHhdkA1E It incorporates a 'low amp' DC clamp meter which is very handy for fault finding parasitic current draws. Also has audible continuity test and voltage measurement. These are a steal at £30.

Hard to tell from that picture, does the pad contact the disc right to the edge? It isn't that unusual for that to be the case with aftermarket calipers and if so you won't get a lip. It's easy to miss how much a disc has worn if that is the case.

It wouldn't. Anyone finding the thread in the future through the search engine who had similar symptoms could have a different setup though. I've also made comment on other potential suggestions that it won't be with an explanation why.

Ta, was fairly confident an SLR would vent to a catch tank but not 100% so seemed worth asking. Overfilling could change the oil properties due to the crank thrashing around in it but I don't believe that it would cause the symptoms you describe. You'll probably get people telling you it's valve stem seals. People always blame oil burning on valve stem seals but that tends to be more on startup (trickles down the valve and pools in the cylinder). I think it's one of those things that many say because they've heard someone else say it. It could potentially be an oil control ring on one of the cylinders that's got a bit stuck in its groove and freed itself but there'd be no way to prove that. I can't think of anything else that would cause an intermittent heavy burning of oil after warm up on an engine with an external crank case breather. I'd just run with it and monitor its oil usage closely for a while.

Strong smell of oil and misfire after topping up oil. I'd usually suggest you've overfilled your oil and it's breathing into the intake but would expect your car to have a catch tank system. How is your crankcase vent routed. Does it go back to the intake?

Common sense would agree with the people saying "don't" but common sense isn't the only route through life. If that were the case 200BHP motorbikes wouldn't exist, skydiving wouldn't be a pastime and we'd all look out onto our driveways at our beige VW Golfs. Do it! And let us know what it's like please.