garybee
-
Posts
1,127 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by garybee
-
I make and sell a few parts that are 3d printed. I wouldn't feel comfortable selling someone else's design though. Maybe I could make a few for cost (for club members). Is Eccles still around on here to ask if it's ok? It'd probably be a couple of weeks before I could get to them (due to work), but the design looks simple enough so probably not a long job.
-
Yes, just unbolt and throw away (or preferably save it to throw in the aluminium pile at the skip). If you google DVA power I'm sure Oily's site will be well up on the first page. Last time I looked he kindly had a very well written and informative page for lots of the most common K-series jobs.
-
Does nothing in a Caterham. It's fine to get rid and blank the remaining hole.
-
Or just say "sod it" and blow torch it out. Do it quickly and the powder coat on the outside of the cup will still be fine. Even if it isn't, won't take long to paint it.
-
I'd spin it until it was sideways on then pull it out with a pair of pipe pliers. Hopefully it'll be fairly loose as it's been running dry. You could also drill it and wind a screw in to give you a bit more purchase. Drill off centre to avoid the ball spinning.
-
Angle grinder will have those lugs off in seconds. More specifically an angle grinder with a cutting disc.
-
No trouble, glad you're sorted.
-
I have a spare Alan. PM inbound. Gary
-
Wow also! In fact wow seems a significant understatement. That's a lot of work and I look forward to sitting down and getting my head round it, thank you.
-
It's a good idea to check the voltage at the post of the starter whilst cranking. Not sure from what you've written if you have already done this. Checking the voltage at the battery leaves potential for poor connection between starter and battery. The connection can be poor even when it appears good and is tight. I've had leads corrode and crack under the insulation. In that case the connection at the terminal would appear sound and the battery voltage would remain good whilst cranking. if you measured the voltage at the post however it would immediately show where the problem lies.
-
I also welded nuts into the channel and bolted from underneath. Zinc plated steel washers should be fine in that area but you could always use a thicker aluminium washer to spread the load. That way you're reducing the contact area between the steel fastener and the aluminium floor.
-
A battery cut-off is a good idea to allow you to easily remove parasitic loads. That way you're only concerned about its self discharge rate. When my Banner died (impact damage, not the usual) I replaced it with an AGM battery, they tend to have a lower self discharge rate so are better for my (sporadic) usage. I think mine is intended for use in a large mower actually. it's lighter, smaller and cheaper than a banner. it's been in for 6 or 7 years now and has no trouble starting the 7 after being ignored for 6 months in the winter. i don't leave it on a tender.
-
Chris, Thanks for the response. I have no difficulty understanding the difference between C of C breaches, general obnoxiousness and differences of opinion. Thanks for the answer ref. Drupal/block facility, suppose that rules it out then. Cheers Gary
-
As with any engine component, warranty will cover replacement of the of the purchased part but no consequential losses. Effectively warranty on components like this is pointless, you need to satisfy yourself that they are fit for purpose.
-
Bumpity-bump. Is (almost) 2 years long enough to wait to submit another request for a function to remove visibility of posters that are repeatedly unpleasent? The forum seems to have taken another turn for the worse again recently, seemed an appropriate time to ask.
-
I hadn't heard of it either, searched for Range Rover after reading the OP. Wow that's ugly! I suspect I'm not their target customer though.
-
Yes, thank you for the info' Malcolm and Wrightpayne. I shall have a look also and see what mine looks like. I have had a look at Caterham parts and one of the lowered floors available has the description: LOWERED FLOOR PANEL LHS - SERIES 3 DD (NOT 96.5-01.5) That suggests to me that something changed mid 2001.
-
I'd like a passenger side for a 2004 S3 if that has ang bearing on your decision Ralph.
-
As nobody's jumped on this yet, don't waste money on 'Fuelcat' or similar items (can't even bring myself to refer to them as devices). There are dozens of these scams around, from mesh bags full of monkey metal to drop into your fuel tank, to inline tubes the fuel passes through. Aside from being mildly amusing as the adverts explain how magnets will magically make your fuel higher octane they do absolutely nothing. The 'science' in the adverts bears a remarkable resemblance to that you see in shampoo commercials. Obviously if you're one of those guys that wears a copper health bracelet ignore the above and fit the Fuelcat
-
Your coupling only provides a moveable link between the car and trailer. It doesn't try to slow the rotation of the joint with friction (the damping that Bricol is referring to). You're fine to grease yours, it should reduce wear and corrosion making it last longer. They're not disagreeing with each other at all. I think you're just misinterpreting what Bricol means by a 'damped coupling'.
-
Wiggling loads of electrical connections when you have an electrical fault is a terrible idea. If it starts working again you won't know what fixed it. In this case, as others have said, it's likely the battery at fault so the obvious test is to hook a car up to it with jump leads and see if it starts.
-
Blast of easystart down the intake. If it starts you've ruled out ECU/spark etc. and know you're looking at a fuelling issue.
-
Does the engine have keyways on the crank and cam pulleys? Most modern engines I've worked on rely on the clamp of the pulley bolt(s). If you've not had the pulleys off I do the same as SM25T. If I feel like being a smartarse and the tensioners don't need replacing (and it's my engine) I like to do the cut it in two with the engine running trick. Can't mess the timing up that way.
-
I don't think 50kg is going to give you enough compression for an accurate calculation. You're only going to get about 1/2" of compression so any error in your measuring will be quite large relative to the travel. Never mind the hilarity you'd have trying to actually line a rule up with the top of the spring with someone's foot wobbling around on it. On second thoughts it's a great idea, can you post the video on here please?
-
I was thinking about suggesting something similar with a cheap hydraulic press (bottle jack type) but thought he was unlikely to have access to one. I hadn't thought about using a drill press. As long as you're confident the spring has a linear rate I suppose you only need to compress it an inch. In that case you're only looking at about 100kgf and even a chintzy drill press should do.