Croc

Quoting weeman: THISis a very secure way of resting a CSR on stands. I got the idea from a friend who does the same with his S3. Apologies in advance for small thread hijack 😳 That looks very neat - where did you buy the cross bar and mounts? Or was it a solution you made up?

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: Was a little concerned when the girl who took my booking asked what a Caterham was I would take her out for a ride...go on....you know you want to! 😬

Hi Mick Good luck with the sale and move. When you get here, join USA7s and we can help you find another seven - prices here are pretty low right now and it is a good time to buy. Hope you are moving somewhere nice in the USA. Cheers mike

Quoting Pendennis: so you need to state whether the track is anti or clockwise. It really does not matter for Tom - he is slow in both directions Hi Tom Edited by - Croc on 22 Feb 2012 12:18:01

I have one (currently lurking in my dining room) that I could lend you from my CSR but my location makes it pain to get to you. Hope someone else pops up with one closer.

Paul's idea on bending the perspex deflectors in boiling water. Even an idiot like me could do it. Get it right and you can go on a motorway in a fair amount of comfort.

The specs I received from Caterham during the build process are contained in the attachment inside this Linky Fronts are marked ET13 but are machined to ET40. Rears are ET8 However, despite this coming from Caterham I think Weeman is right with the rears being ET30 as the CSR race wheels are: 7x13 - et40 - 139mm backspace 9x13 - et30 - 158mm backspace

Duplicate Edited by - Croc on 26 Jan 2012 13:14:17

Quoting tbird: Martin you might have identified the problem, yours is yellow and cool Mine is yellow and cool Croc's is silver and not cool obviously its yellow cars that are cool 😬 🙆🏻 😔 I want to be cool! Edited by - Croc on 26 Jan 2012 13:14:42

Quoting duffield: Now it seems there may be some difference in cabin heat temperature. Please can you guys post the years of your cars? I can see if the age has an influence. My car is very late 2010 but it looks to be 2011 spec (no under hoop) and has the extra diff struts. It is LHD in case that is relevant. I run it with a Cosworth 275 spec and not the 260 spec standard in the UK. As if I could notice any difference?

It is confusing to me as well as the hot spots are quite specifically localized on the tunnel around the gearbox and I cannot work out why the heat is not evenly spread. I have all the insulation installed plus some extra pieces. I did not wrap the manifold as heat transmitted from that direction is not a problem for me. So I live with it and accept it as the price of having a stunningly good car. It does not help that it looks like I am the only one within 5500 miles with a swoopy dash CSR.

Quoting Paul Jacobs: I'm wondering if the swoopy dash transfers more heat than the flat dash? All those extra exposed tubes in direct contact with the heat source. Anyone got any thoughts? I think you are right. I melted my fleece jacket elbow on a swoopy dash chassis tube down the central tunnel. In summer I cannot touch some parts of the tubes. My old seven with old cockpit layout never transmitted such heat through the centre tunnel.

It's ok....As Mike knows, I am probably the one of the tubbiest drivers to ever grace a seven 😬 Some little grunt sniggered "muffin top" when I was seated in my seven last year. 😬

They probably will not fit. SV drivers need longer belts so that they still connect in the middle Running away now.....

1. & 3. - Its not free but I use Cyberlink Power Director and find it easier and better to use than Windoze MM. 2. I have generally used WMV in HD format, users can downgrade to lower resolution easily in YouTube for their viewing limitations. I have just fallen into using WMV. Hopefully someone can educate me on why a specific format may be better than another. 4. I use the skeleton housing (with open back) so I can use the external mic. The external mic can then be placed in a spot to maximise sound quality. I also use the sound editor in PowerDirector to clean up some of the noise embedded on the recorded soundtrack.

If you are thinking Go Pro then make sure it is the new GoPro2 HD version which will take an external mic for decent sound. Sample footage here from my first time using mine in November I use the eyeofmine motorsport mount as it is more stable and easier to set up than the GoPro motorsport mount. Edited by - Croc on 10 Dec 2011 22:10:49

Fluke Motorsport? Link

Cheers Guys! (Hopefully no chicks on here will be offended?) iI appreciate the many suggestions and will pass them on. Thanks mike

After educating a member by phone last night on the wonders of the internet and in particular, Blatchat....I offerred to post his technical question here as for me to go through the process of explaining how to register here would be slower. I can then print out the answers and show him.... I have already demonstrated the search function for all history, just trying to add to the existing Blatchat knowledge already posted. Anyway, here is his question: I am looking to turbocharge the Hayabusa engine in my car and would like to hear from anyone who has lived with a turbocharged seven. I have lowered the compression, installed heavy duty head bolts and adjustable cam sprockets. Other than that it is basicaly stock. I have a Garrett GT28 turbo and a big intercooler. I am hoping to run 7 or 8 psi and would be happy if I could get 250 RELIABLE horsepower. I am comfortable my formula will work well in a bike but a car application is different. The loads on the engine are greater and more constant than in a bike and I have concerns with heat buildup. Can someone with experience with boosted cars tell me where the "bodies are burried". I have a bike engined car already but I have never seen a turbo bike engined car so it is difficult for me think my way through this. I would prefer not to reinvent the wheel and would like to learn from the experience of others, rather than beat my own path and leave a trail of blown engines in my wake. I read a number of roadtests in the car magazines of a turbocharged D*x and they rave about it, but I am sure there is a downside. Surely by now enough of these fantastic engines have been boosted that the weak links are known and fixed. Thanks in advance

Hi Steve! Page is now bookmarked!

Another option that worked well for me at the last track day is the Qstarz BT-Q818XT 10Hz which does exactly the same stuff. I bluetooth my Qstarz to a RaceChrono touchscreen GPS unit but you could bluetooth it to your iPhone loaded with the regular RaceChrono app and the iPhone then stores the data. You then upload from Racechrono iPhone in CSV spreadsheet format to RaceRender or some other software for data overlay onto video separately recorded. The software that comes with the Qstarz is awful which is why I use the RaceChrono to make sense of it and help me format it into some order for export into RaceRender. The end result (if you exclude the intro and ending slides) is the GoPro video and RaceChrono/QStarz data overlay result you see here. USA7s Nov 2011 Track Weekend Cheers mike Edited by - Croc on 27 Nov 2011 11:25:34

Quoting Paul Jacobs: You are right in that they work far better when angled out, but that bracket idea is a lot of hard work, why not just heat up the lower curved section in boiling water and gently put more of a bend in it? It's worked a treat on mine. +1 Works really well for me.

I have used the (then) girlfriend's panty hose as a fanbelt on a Ford Falcon when it decided to split apart on a country drive. She was less than impressed Duct tape to hold up the exhaust on the seven and several other cars. And when I was attending university at nights in Sydney many years ago, I used a tampon from the glovebox (it was my GF's...honest!) to stop a persistent nosebleed while driving home late at night. Just my luck I was pulled over by the cops for a random breath alcohol test...

Quoting Paul Seymour: might be to extend around a roll bar ,sv may be? No it is not that. I have the same velcro "extender" straps which came fitted to the hood bag stitched straps to effectively make the loop around the roll bar uprights them bigger (if that makes sense). I ended up removing them as they were not needed for the width of a CSR. I put them away figuring I would work out a use for them one day.

I have used this on 2 sevens so far and prefer it because of the wide angle view it gives. Its also high enough to clear most of the roll bar obstruction. Not the cheapest solution out there but works very well. Mirrors for Sevens A pic of it on my car to help you visualise: here There is a bulk buy going on USA7s now if you are interested: here Edited by - Croc on 22 Aug 2011 12:56:55