Croc

I did the bonnet scoop into the intake. I added one to my CSR and it lowered the intake temperatures substantially. I was running before and after data off the CAN J1962 connection under the dash and an AIM solo (which works just great with the Caterham ECU) to prove my theory. However, solving one problem created another. Now I get venting hot air out the bonnet louvres right into my face if I am running the aeroscreen and relatively low speeds (i.e. road usage). Higher speeds on track and it is not noticeable. Don't notice it with a windscreen. I need to drop the alloy plate under the prop shaft like you (Neil) did to allow the air to flow through better which will minimize the new louvre effect. I did not wrap or coat the primaries on my CSR - will do it next time engine comes out.

Hi Simon, Interesting you are having no issues. I have had the same experience on multiple cars and with/without the smartycam (sometimes using a GoPro to manually sync) so I am confident the problem is the Solo DL/connection. How are you setting the sample rates? Within Race Studio or is there some other MXS unit-specific set up that you do? A last question for now is what sample rate have you set everything at? It could be we are dealing with customisation advantages than come from using pro grade (MXS) versus amateur grade (Solo DL)? Cheers mike

Here is another alternative to using Easimap. As noted early, while the ECU is not OBDII it is CAN. You can get logging data for track work out via the J1962 plug but it is slooow and gets out of sequence with say GPS or video. The video below is from hooking a AIM Solo DL up to my CSR 260. The track map is GPS driven by the AIM and the data on the dials is all ECU. Labels are what the ECU tells me it is recording but it is partly mislabeled on some fields - I never followed up on this. The major items are accurate. If you use this approach you need to tell the Solo DL that you are using a Noble (the car). It is truly plug and play - no wiring needed. I was disappointed in the level of data refresh delay. If you closely follow the GPS track map (refreshing at 10hz so reasonably accurate) you will see that my ECU data on throttle, brakes, revs, etc is delayed relative to what I know (and what you will expect) is my logical movements on that part of a track. No surprises as CAN is 1980s era technology and the refresh rate on the data is just too slow for the track speeds our cars can experience. While video/GPS will sync up, the CAN data never will properly. CAN is better than OBDII for refresh but still not fast enough to make it work fo me as a track data logger. What you can do with this is use the Solo DL and customize the screen display so you can track the engine variable (in my case intake temps and oil temps) you wish to monitor at say 100mph in direct line of sight of the driver and get a feel for what is going on within the engine for a particular problem you are trying to diagnose. The data is slightly delayed but I mentally allow for that when using this approach. Its better than using a laptop on the passenger seat. If you want to go down this Solo DL for a track day/race video with logging data then my recommendation is dont bother - stick to video/GPS (which should be sufficient for 90% of people) or install customized sensors that would give far quicker data refresh rates for the logging data you need. The Solo DL is a great bit of kit that I use its GPS with video to record my track days. ​

You left off that your K series S3 runs 10 inch slicks all round - its always going to be planted in corners. You could also get stuck into the pies and pile on...oh...another 35 odd pounds to take you to 300 pounds and then the car would handle perfectly as it did for Karl? All wisecracks and trolling aside my vote would be for a corner weight first with your weight in the drivers seat and nothing in the passenger seat. Then give it a try on track to see where it is at and think next steps. What tyre pressures are you running in the SV slicks?

I do exactly the same as Hanns Per with my CSR and run it 18PSI all round on both its 15 inch road wheels and its 13 inch track wheels

Nice job - they look so much better! I used the same lights on my CSR and was very happy how they turned out. Nicely bright compared with the former block units. I did not use the wedge and just affixed to the panel as I felt the resulting upwards angle better suited the high seating position in the average MummyMobile 4WD/Chelsea tractor/etc that is invariably following me these days.

No spot meter needed on a Caterham as there is no interior/exterior exposure contrast for the camera to deal with. Not all saloon cars need it on either - only those with a small dark cabin space, with limited side and rear windows. Older cars with bigger glass house styling allow a GoPro to operate in regular metering setting.

Jim....oh no! Dont bring up politics on a public forum to Tom! We will never stop Tom beating his chest now on his soap box Then again I think you probably saw my handwork in political stickers all over his Caterham that day at NJMP!

Somebody called? The BAT trip to Eastern Europe was sensational. It was wonderful to meet the L7C members on the trip and enjoy some great track time. Hi Stephen As Tom said we would love to have you join us at our local track if you can make the schedule work. Its not the wall street crowd - just regular normal people who work hard for a living (except Tom... ) and enjoy quality track time. Even if not, I am based in the NYC area, within sight of NYU, so dinner is always a possibility if you are in town visiting your daughter. Cheers mike

Its a little old now and some of the example videos are no longer listed but this thread will help http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?8791-Getting-decent-video-audio-on-your-Seven This will help you narrow down a solution that sounds the way you like.

Your question may be better answered on USA7s where the Zetecs and ST170 (known as a SVT Zetec int the US) engines were standard fitment for many years. On my old 2004 SV I had a ST170 installation and I loved it. I had the standard intake and exhaust manifolds and even the Ford ECU (I actually had OBDII!). Because it was an SV it fitted neatly. I am not aware of anyone else copying my exact installation on an S3. All seemed to go for slightly different intake arrangements although they all seems to use the same exhaust manifold arrangement. You obviously will need to worry about the steering column on the intake side since you have RHD. This is the only photo I can find but it may help you visualise? http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a354/mjohnson555/seats/P1010498.jpg

Tom was running on track yesterday and given who he was at dinner with last night he will be badly hungover today. But I can confirm that he has tried a new cap (multiple from memory) before going to Evans. I agree totally with 6speed's observation - it should just work. Having witnessed Tom's experiences firsthand at the track I can see that the system is always pressurising with air. Jonathan's observation on water pump is matching my suspicions as once you eliminate the possible causes of head gasket, hose plumbing, cap, thermostat, proper bleeding, catch tank location then there is not much left it could be. It was an R400 originally but I dont know if the waterpump was transferred across when the Cosworth was installed or whether it was a new Cosworth waterpump - should be an easy check though when he sobers up.

My cat accidentally fell off on purpose on the first day of ownership. It now decorates the floor of my hallway closet. I cannot feel any extra power. I have never noticed the footwells to get hot - before or after. My heat issue has always been the exposed chassis tubes of the curvy dash which burns my elbow. I think it looks better without the cat.

This is clearly the situation. Tom and I run together on track. I dont have any problems with my CSR and he does, albeit with an extra 35hp over me, we have the same engine. Tom's car started life as an R400 with a 2L Duratec which the previous owner upgraded by changing engines to this spec. I dont recall the radiator being changed in that conversion and have no idea on the water pump. I did not think that the R400 used a different water pump/radiator to the CSR? I know Tom has replaced the cap already so we can rule that out.

On my R300 zetec SV (13 inch wheels) I run them at 18psi For my CSR (13 inch wheels) I run them 22psi front and 23 rear.

Not sure why the ZZRs cracked but they were stored in a warm garage by me - no cold storage. Retailer was on west coast US so not cold. I had them for 3 months before cracking was noticed. No cracking noticed since them with track usage.

I cannot speak for the ZZS but I can say the ZZR get the same cracking issue as the CR500. Out of 9 tires ordered for the 2 Caterhams I needed a warranty replacement on 3, even before they turned a wheel on the road. 😔 Edited by - Croc on 2 Sep 2014 17:48:47

I use both RaceRender and Dashware - both will overlay data over video. Dashware is maybe a fraction easier to use and to my eye produces a slightly higher quality video overlay but only supports one video source (multiple video is a major pain). RaceRender easily supports multiple video cameras (e.g. front view, rear view, pedals, etc). Cost is roughly the same for both.

Quoting TomGaval: I'm sure I never pressed the throttle passed half way. *eek* You big girly! Also check the throttle cable is not binding and is operating smoothly - I had this problem in my car, fixed it, only to have it come back after its recent service. Edited by - Croc on 8 Jul 2014 09:17:14

Its definitely coolant - it was covering my visor and my video camera lenses when I was following behind Steve at Angelsey.

I think Molecular Bob is on the right track. My old SVT Zetec used to misbehave from fuel and it was always from over fueling when I over cranked it.

Quoting FramerateUK: While we're on the subject, I could not get mine to bend at all after leaving them in boiling water. How did you go about doing it? I have done it a few times now with boiling water. A big (lobster) pot of water on the stove brought to a rapid boil. Stick the bottom of the deflectors in and try to suspend them or hold them so the deflector is not resting on the bottom of the pot. Leave for 10-15 mins to soften in the rapidly boiling water. Then by hand gently push down on the deflector while in the boiling water against the base of the pot and it will slowly bend. Take your time and be patient while applying force - too firm and it will snap. Do a little bit at a time until you reach the curve you need. Once you have one done then do the other and match it to the first one. Ideally you would also take off the little silicone bumpers at the end - I forgot and they disappeared..lol.

+1 on bending them to make them stick out more.

Well, there was a part number on the old one - just could not see it until I got it out. It was a Mahle KL158 which cross references to a Mann WK612/2 Just in case anyone is looking in the future.

I am wanting to replace my fuel filter on a CSR 260 (2.3L Duratec) - the one outside the fuel tank. Does anyone have a part number/brand name so I can try to source one locally? Many thanks in advance!