velocityblade

Thanks again 2CV. I'm sold on this approach. Right, where did I put that soldering iron?

Point of clarity please 2CV. Do you leave the wire from the loom through the scuttle all the time, even when the full screen is re-fitted? Or only with the Aeroscreen? Thanks.

OK Fred I could see that working too. Not sure I feel comfortable with all those wires from the cut off switch being exposed but I guess that's just just me.

Excellent and quick advice. Pete, Thanks for the reminder on the grommet. I was wondering if that would stay put in the scuttle when I pulled the wire through. I have a cut out switch fitted on the driver's side so it would be tricky fishing around for an odd wire in that bird's nest when re-connecting 2CV, I like your style - keep it simple and make it easy to re-connect. I am tempted to go that way. The idea of taping it down was just to prevent scratching form wires flapping around in the breeze. Thanks again both.... Edited by - velocityblade on 8 May 2011 20:24:49

Hi again. After a little more experienced advice now I have fitted the captive nut brackets ready to swap to Aeroscreen. While fitting the brackets I noted the wiring from each end of the screen has soldered joints going to a spade connector, which in turn connect to the main wiring loom. I guess that I need to unsolder these connections, put in bullet connectors and re-connect. The advice I am after is the best way to deal with these wires/connectors when swapping the full screen for the Aeroscreen. For the screen swap to take 10 minutes, there has to be a simple way of dealing with disconnecting or re-connecting the screen wires so the knee panels don't need removing each time. Do I pull the wires and connectors through the scuttle, unplug the connectors, remove the screen and tape the remaining (loom) wire to the scuttle ready for re-connecting when the full screen goes back on? Or is it best to pull these wires out from behind the knee panel, and do all the disconnecting/re-connecting by the knee panel? Or have I missed the blindingly obvious? ☹️ Thanks in advance.

Possible useful link here to earlier threads on this subject. Bought Acoustafil after contacting manufacturer only to find previous owner had welded the re-packable exhaust underneath once it was off the car. Edited by - velocityblade on 4 May 2011 16:21:34

OK I couldn't wait for the weekend, given the info and photos To my pleasant surprise I found the knee panels held in by screws. Yippee! Except when I took the driver's side cover off, I found no captive nuts, just usual stand-alone nuts. ☹️ So, I'm off to the CC site to order some captive nut channels and will plough on from there.

Danny thanks a lot. The photos are very helpful and I haven't seen anything like them in my trawl on Tech Talk. I feel much assured and will give it a go at the weekend.

Thanks Roadsport and Ray. I'll give that a crack. If the bolt spins, I am sure I can find a way to do it back up again till the captive nut channels arrive . Thanks for the offer of help too - I'm out in East Essex but do have drill and rivets so if it comes to taking panels off, I am confident it will be fine. Right - seems I'm off out to the garage tomorrow morning then.......

Help please to a new-ish owner looking to fit an Aeroscreen to my SV. I have the screen mirrors etc and am looking to fit soon. Can anyone advise if there is a quick way for me to find out if my car is already fitted with the captive nuts that make swapping the screens a 10 min job? Or do I need to start remove interior panels and then deal with what I find? Thanks. Looking forward to the POBC.....

Had you considered using CC at Dartford? They aren't that much further than some others being suggested. Or am I being naive? I've not had a service done yet (due in 2 months) I am in Southend and they would be my first thought - unless someone wants to put me right

Glad you found the 2 Steves as awesome as I did. Here's a link to an earlier thread that addressed similar questions. As mentioned, I am getting around 35mpg on a day out at cruising speeds (70+10%+2) which dropped to 22 on track. Will be checking this again next month. The thread also has a link to a pic of my ECU that was re-programmed by Track and Road and you can see it's pretty bog standard. Completely endorse the huge improvement in driveability. It's a real joy to drive at any speeds - though more fun when faster Hope you continue to love the improvements,,,,,,,,,,,

If it is any help, here's the ECU on my R400 that T 'n R worked their magic on. Nothing special before they remapped it. http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5510719542_c9529c9e5c_m.jpg

A call to T 'n R is well worth it. I know they say they can remap all sorts of systems. They have an extensive "library" of maps and keep everyone's "personal" map for future reference. That way if you need an instant re-map to your previous settings, they are able to do that. They aren't cheap and they do take a long time to get it right. So be prepared for a late night and >£400 if you do decide to pay them a visit. To be fair, they aren't the only game in town and a scan through Tech Talk will produce other equally rated tuning companies around the UK. T 'n R are a 30 min ride away for me so it was a no-brainer.

For clarity on my K series 1800, I am still getting 35 mpg or so when out and about everyday. Low 20's was track day use, rather than anything T 'n R did. I also heard a rumour that CC have been known to use T 'n R for tuning, as it's a couple of miles across the bridge from Dartford. Can't substantiate this though.

Tony Following the Tech Talk threads on rough low speed running, I opted to take the Track 'n Road path. My motivation was for better running rather than greater power. Part of the Track 'n Road prep before starting their mapping of my 7 was to run a compression test. This found cylinders 1 and 3 with 215. Their pressure test showed significant inlet valve leakage. Nevertheless with my OK they carried on and the car measured 216 BHP and 152lbft torque once they had finished. The car has since been back to Caterham who changed rings, reworked the head etc. It is noticeably quicker now than when I picked it up from T 'n R. I don't have new figures though but it'll be > 216for sure. The main thing for me that T 'n R did was the way they improved the power delivery. More responsiveness, smoother delivery and none of the over-fuelling issues common on the standard set up. The power and torque curves are much more user-friendly. Sitting with them as they recorded the initial standard settings then remapped the ECU to the new settings, you get to see just how "out" the generic settings are and how much they can be moved into a more efficient curve. Hope this is helpful Chris

The track day was through MSV and it was a Novice day, so was just right for me. It turned out I was the only Caterham on the circuit. I booked a session with an instructor and it was well worth the money. I am booked through Geoff for the Brands Hatch GP Circuit, which should be brilliant. A thought re your new RB's. I don't know what ECU or mapping you have on your 7: I took mine (following recommendations on Tech Threads again)to Track 'n Road to have my standard ECU mapped for optimum performance by the "2 Steve's". It made a fantastic difference to the tracktability and power of the car and low speed running in traffic became enjoyable - no popping and bangs and overruns and surges. Driving home it was like a different - and much more fun - car. They are just across the Tunnel from you, in Essex, so if you have some time to spare, I would highly recommend a visit to Track 'n Road, to get the most from your new RB's. And a word on their customer service: when my 7 came off the rolling road, they said, " take it for a test drive. If you don't think we've made a difference, don't pay us". I paid

Great news Paul. Glad you have found it more than a good investment. IMHO it's the responsiveness that is the big gain, the extra BHP, whatever it is, is a bonus. Re noise and MPG, I took my R400 on my first car track day last month. With the standard CC exhaust with engine at 4000rpm it measured 103dB. That's a bit marginal as I doubt that is truly 2/3 used revs. I am in the process of ordering repacking material (Acoustafil - see Tech Threads) to bring it below 100dB for future events. Thanks Mark for the repacking instructions. The MPG was down from a cruising 35 to 24. The conditions were slippery so careful right foot was in order. In the dry I can see that this will be sub 20, as per others' experience. Hope you continue to have the added fun.

Geoff YHM :-)

Thanks for the reply it sounds just right. I'll mail separately.

If you are interested in splitting, I could be keen on the screen. What fittings would come with it and would you have a price in mind? Last point - apologies for all the questions - do you know it's origin/maker? Thanks

Thanks Geoff My diary is looking good so can you put me down for the day please I'll do my best to keep out of the way

Hi Geoff This will be my first time on a track in a 7. Only done 2 wheels before. I really fancy the Brands GP trip. When will you need to know by and do these events run in 3 categories of experience, as they do for bikes?

St Eve You are not alone with the SBFS site. I spoke to Nick there a week or so back and while we were on the phone I talked him through some of the issues I had found. He then found them too He is in touch with the hosting company to get them resolved and in the meantime, give them a call as they are always very helpful. Shame about the Half Hood. I bought a new one a couple of months ago and as brilliant as they are - really - one is enough!

Hi Nifty this may be a dumb question. Are you looking for orders for the mirrors, or the mirrors complete with the fitting brackets as per your photos? I've got the Racetech mirrors on pillar mounts at the moment which are great but your set-up looks better and would give a wider choice of mirrors too.