moosetestbestanden

Ditto. I decided that it would be prudent to add washer(s) to distribute the load over a wider area because of this. Beware: When I did mine and *finally* had the driver's seat (your left) installed I found I couldn't slide the seat back in the runners because the "wing" upper (by the driver's left shoulder - your right) interfered w/ the body at the wheel arch. So, it all came out again and I had to cant the seat inboards w/ extra washers (hardware store sourced) so that it would clear the body. On the plus side, the more times you take them in and out the lesser the pain becomes. Oh, and they are a superb fit and really hold well, particularly when on-track. Worth the bother imo. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

Here's some generic information here The page is from a vendor of survival products in Utah. Take some of what is said w/ a grain of salt however the preservatives do seem to work. That is, I've never had a problem w/ gasoline stored using the stuff. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

My wife and I are the same as you two stature-wise and our car's seating configuration is the same too. W/ the (pathetic) std. runners all the way forward she can reach the pedals by placing a foam pad between her back and the seat back. Not optimum by any means but at least she can drive the car. On the other side, I wouldn't mind if the seat could move further back for me so it isn't optimum for either of us. I swear by the gods that one day soon I'm going to build some runners for the Tillets that actually work smoothly, w/ more travel and don't weigh a ton. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

I have an inquiry of this nature for Freestyle but the info@freestylemotorsport.com email address bounces back as undeliverable. Does anyone know of a valid email address for them? ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

Thanks again Neil. I'm gonna give it a run this afternoon after work because I've nothing to lose really. The car is dead in the garage and I'm trailer challenged and I have had to work waaay too much, which has gotten heavily in the way of being able to work on this. The thing is scheduled to come out later this fall for a visit to Cosworth in Torrance anyway so what the hell. There is literally no adjustability in any part of the belt system so I'll have to run off to the neighborhood DriveBelt SuperStore and pick up a few of varying size. Btw, I hope you saw the video of that emergency landing at LAX on Wed. (our time). A really nice piece of flying (well, landing) imo. Good - no, great - on him. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

Thanks Neil. I found a pulley but not a bolt (to arrive Monday. Track opens at 9:00, Sat.). So, some questions please: How hard is removing the pulley. That is, is a lot of force commonly required to pull it or will it slide off w/out much effort? As the bolt is a one-time use item only item, and lacking a new one, I'm soliciting opinions on the chances of the used one surviving about 200 miles of action, about 1/3 of which will be high reving WOT track work (the remainder a sedate cruise to and fro). How much friction & inertia exists in the engine w/ no bolt in place? Does everything commonly move around or not? Leading up to... Will it work (if the pulley comes off easily) if I mark the location of the key on the timing ring somehow and then place the new pulley on the engine such that the key is in the same location? As you can tell, I'm pretty desperate to make the event. There's rumors that there may be a relatively large herd of Englishmen in funny little cars in the area and I'd really like to be there to meet them, 7 & all. Btw, the service dept. at the Ford dealer where I found the pulley wouldn't touch the job. Liability and all that. A big Pbbbbbt at the Murican system of torts. {edited to add that I downloaded your manual Neil, thanks.} ------- Chris Duct tape. It's the NASCAR mechanic's carbon fiber Edited by - moosetestbestanden on 23 Sep 2005 02:42:22

I took another car to the house across the street (she has a level drive I do not), put the car about 15 - 20 ft. from her garage door, marked where the front of the car was, turned on the lights and then marked where the hit the door w/ some tape. Then I pulled the 7 to the same location and wiggled the lamp pods about until they were about right. It lasted all of about 3 drives, then both shook loose. Bleah. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

The pulley & gear are aftermarket, US designed & made P.O.S. parts for an underdriven pulley arrangement. See it here. The timing gear is attached via screws (!), 3 of which have backed off. My call to the builder revealed that mine is the last one to let go of every one of them he installed. Nice. So that's a goner. I'm going to try to find someone w/ the tools & experience (I'm no engine builder obviously) to install a stock arrangement. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

As I thought about it more I realized it must be timing related. When everything cooled to the point where I could reach down safely I found that there is a kind of key that locates the ring and that's where it's come loose and I believe it is, or rather was, pressed on. So as it's not a moving part I'll just NASCAR it on 'ere (duct tape) n git back out 'ere so'n me 'n the team kin git some more of 'em valuable Nextel Cup points 😬 Seriously, thanks for the pointers and I will most certainly proceed w/ care. I believe a call to the engine builder (and Caterham dealer, well, er, former dealer - long story, no punchline & certainly not funny) is in order as well. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

The toothed ring behind the bottom belt pulley seen here has become loose. It has about 1/2 mm or so travel along the axis of the crank and just a very little travel side to side. It's making a hellish noise. What is the ring's function? After the pulley is removed how is it tightened or otherwise made fast? If the bottom pulley has to come off (the bolt is not loose) as it surely must what is the torque value for the bolt? Is this a stock Ford part or an adaptation for the non-standard belt drive? As per Murphy's Law, there's a track day on Saturday. Any help gratefully accepted. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is Edited by - moosetestbestanden on 20 Sep 2005 03:49:58

That's the number of the filter I've been using. My update: it seems that, umm, ahem, adding the correct amount of oil as per the manufacturer's reccomendation (not the dealer's, ahem again) has cured my ills, w/ the PH966B in place. There's this certain sequence of corners hereabouts where any oil pickup issues are quickly revealed. Several runs through showed no problems. Several more runs through were made just to be sure. 😬 The back is better too ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

Can anyone out there supply the specs of the lug nut studs please? I couldn't find anything in the faqs. I've just popped for the new 8 spoke wheels and the face for the lug nuts is tapered, rather than the flat face type that is on my other wheels. Thus, I believe I need new nuts Edited to say that new, tapered lug nuts are required, in a 12 X 1.5 size. Length is unchanged. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is Edited by - moosetestbestanden on 11 Sep 2005 01:48:23

Hi Brent, My update is no update at all. I screwed up my lower back yesterday and couldn't even sit down in car. Getting old is a bitch. A trip to the pharmacy today should loosen things up to the point where I am mobile so I'll conduct a test this afternoon (Left Coast Daylight Time), come hell or, ahem, high water. Btw, the engine was built w/ the Raceline oil filter housing. Do you have the same? ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

I had to switch filters from the Bosch that came w/ the engine to a Fram because at the time I could not source the Bosch. At the switch is when the problem 1st showed up. I used the same type (for the same reason) on the next oil change and the problem went away. Bleah. For this most recent oil change I used the Fram again, one that I had purchased previously. I have had the same thought as you - just chenge the filter and see what happens. More empirical that way. Unfortunately now I can't find the Fram but have found the Bosch. I will change just the filter just the same, but 1st I'm going to add more oil. I've always put 4 quarts in as that was how much I was told to use by the dealer. I agree w/ you in as much as I can't see any reason why one type of oil would be any different than any other. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

This is the 2nd time. My dipstick cannot be anywhere near correct for the engine's configuration as it shows at max. level after just 3 quarts. I'm pretty sure the local dealer sourced it from the Who Knows Where parts catalogue (my car is one of the earliest Duratecs over here). I'm going to change the oil again today to see if the problem goes away. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

Brent, I changed the oil in my 2.0L yesterday. I put Castrol semi-syn in a 5W20 in the engine. I have the Raceline sump as well. I took the car out for a short drive. I experienced exactly the same phenomenon as you. This has happened before. Changing the oil again seemed to cure the problem as the oil pressure becomes Rock Steady again, as in your case. How much oil are you putting in the engine? Edited by - moosetestbestanden on 5 Sep 2005 15:19:09

Did they have much to say about the 2.0L engines? Their catalog over here is largely focused on the 2.3, w/ some 2.0 parts shown. ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

The Avon web site shows that their competition tires should be mounted w/ the 'specification number' on the right side of the vehicle on the rears (iow inside left tire, outside right tire) and the spec. number mounted on the left side (inside right tire, outside left tire) on the fronts for a rear wheel drive car. The tires have the numbers 10036 (rears) and 10035 (fronts) imprinted on one side only so I presume that those are the spec. numbers. Could someone please confirm that this also applies to the ACB10s and that this is the correct mounting & fitment for ACB10s on a Caterham 7? ------- Chris Vitural distance is only as far as you think it is

Seconded. Be Careful w/ it. ------- Chris Veni Vedi Blati

It'll be interesting to be following / leading this fella on the track on a sunny day w/ all that shiny, highly polished metal bouncing rays around. Yikes? ------- Chris Veni Vedi Blati

Yes. See here

I have a 2.0L which is supposed to be right around 200 hp, a 5 speed (I believe my 5th is at .82), and a 3.62 differential. It launches real well and there's always plenty of torque coming off of curves / corners. It's very very driveable. ------- Chris Veni Vedi Blati

Nobody ever claimed that the end products were similar, or "in the same league", only that the process for making the block came from Cosworth. More info here. Scroll down to the Cosworth Casting Process. It's quite clear from the media release that the process was developed largely to prevent porosity in the solid material, for the purpose of maintaining consistency from one unit to the next. I reckon you're right that the end products are in fact light years apart, but not necessarily because of the process that actually forms the block from molten metal. As for how modern day F1 engine blocks are cast, I simply don't know. But I know someone who does know and I'll ask him, out of newfound curosity. Hopefully he'll be willing to tell me something, even if only a little. I've never opened my engine up so I can't say how cheaply made the components are or are not. I'm going to let Cosworth do that (possibly, maybe, eventually) and maybe they'll be kind enough to show me the difference that I'll be paying for. The engine's making plenty of beans though, and that's w/ SBD's outside-only stuff attached. And their mapping (or MBEs or whoever does it), which I have found to be excellent right out of the box. Btw, the Fast Ford article from SBD's website makes the point that, yes it is cheap but that it has a really easy and inexpensive path to about 200 HP, simply by bolting parts on, mostly due to the head design. I really can't see too much wrong w/ the notion of 200 inexpensive HP from a relatively lightweight engine. If it doesn't look the greatest, well, I guess I'll just have to keep the bonnet on the car. I really didn't build the car as a fashion piece anyway, I built it to drive it on the track. The Cossy price list I mentioned earlier says a "long engine assembly", which implys a built engine only (w/ Cosworth rods, pistons, cams, springs & headwork). Which means it comes sans lots of other important things, like roller throttles, headers, flywheel, clutch, dry sump etc. etc. etc. And the list says 250 spec, not the 260 I mentioned previously. ------- Chris Veni Vedi Blati Edited by - moosetestbestanden on 28 Apr 2005 03:15:37

I'm at work - I'll have a look at the pricelist when I get home and reply. ------- Chris I Blat, therefore I Am

On the track several weekends ago I had the pleasure(?) of following a Cossy built 2.3 around (fat chance I had of passing him to be sure). Cosworth in Torrance had a rep on-site for part of the 1st day's running because this was the 1st customer car they'd delivered. He had a number of nice things to say about the Duratec (as you might expect), but particularly about the cost / hp. A 260 HP spec engine is shown on their price list at $8500 (that's about 3 pound 70 now, and sinnking fast) as I remember it. Now that the fabs are up to speed building the Duratec the aftermarket is starting to explode. I've got a 2.0L and will be following your progress w/ the crank AMMO. Please do let us know how it comes along. ------- Chris I Blat, therefore I Am