graearea

5215041 is the ford part number for the dipstick. 15 quid from ford or 27 from Caterham :(

funnily enough, I was thinking of making a clip on cover for my oil cooler. not sure if it'll work yet if it's made out of PETG which _should_ be able to cope with 110degC

just found this! /guides/technical-guides/removing-and-reinstalling-duratec-engine-and-gearbox

so my car is about to fit 60k miles (thanks John Aston! :D) and my last oil change there was fine shavings on the magnetic plug I'm thinking maybe I should get the bottom end checked out and so I was thinking of removing the engine and taking it up to Rob at RatRace. or should I just drop the sump and have a look? I'm about to drop the oil out so I was going to have a look at the oil before making a decision anyone seen any guides to remove/replace a duratec from a metric R400? is it easy? I assume I need a engine crane, some ratchet straps and a torque wrench. I was going to buy a 2nd hand one and then sell it again, or just check the club list to see if anyone local has one. thanks! J

yeah it's pretty obvious. 3 bolts as you can see in the pictures. here's one from Pierre in France

I've got a drivers side one. not thought about selling it. I'm in North London. not sure what money they fetch. it seems to be in good nick and I replaced the side bolsters on it fairly recently before biting the Tillet bullet. PM me

I've sold a couple of dozen of these things now. they work pretty well with the hinge replacements. If I've sold you some adapters before I came up with the hinge, drop me a line and I'll do the hinges at half price.

just realised I'd missed these responses. it's a cable with a solid tip-style. I'll contact Raceline. and redline as well. thanks!

second TIG. if you're doing it for fun and not profit you can take a lot of pride in some nice TIG welding. I find it amazingly therapeutic. although welding Ali is a PITA :D

Anyone know if the duratec wet sump dipstick is a Ford or standard part? They're out of stock with caterham and mine has a wobbly tip. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/oil-system/3782-dipstick-for-duratec-engine.html

not sure if they're any different with the car being a wide track S3 also if anyone has any rear CXR 13s I might be interested

yes! although for it to be worth it we need to go to another track on the way/local or head down to the alps :D or both

I plugged in the old light. it didn't work. I plugged the light into the fog lamp and it DID work. so it's the car's fault, not the LED kit. I'll see if I can find the cause of no reverse lamp, but then it isn't an MOT requirement so....

Just to point out these were caterham not JAL. And the instructions were an out of date video on their site.

OK. solved. removing the incandescent telltale resulted in the indicators working perfectly, just without the telltale. with the telltale every led blinked. I replaced the telltale with classic car LEDs with one of their LED telltales. I was told this wouldn't work and he was 95% correct. the rear wrong LED indicator had 1 led light up dimly, with the correct LED indicator blinking as normal. I did buy a little 8 quid diode loom that I was told (and I do believe) would fix this problem perfectly, but the other LED is so dim that you won't see it in the day and at night it'll be drowned out by the brakes. only problem now is the reverse light not working! (but I have no proof this was working before... multimeter time ahead. thanks all! J

I did try and look for stuff on here. thanks Jonathan. am I right in thinking that pulling the bulb and replacing it with an LED would fix this? otherwise people are saying the JAL relay will fix it ( I bought the same relay, just not from JAL) or that adding diodes would fix this. or maybe just replacing the whole thing with a LED..... :shrug: thanks loads J

It is a single lamp I'll take a look

I've just added the Caterham LEDs, and as the title suggest, turning on an indicator causes that side's lights to blink and also the opposite side's. the correct side seems to be brighter on the front, so switching left and right you get a brighter ring on my leds. I have an LED blinker relay. someone suggested adding diodes????? I don't really know what that means. I reconnected the old lights and everything worked again. if I remove one set of lights, it seems to have the same effect with all lights blinking. any ideas? J

yeah. mine too. it's annoying. so I fixed it. if you're still running the original caterham mirrors, or my adapters for spa mirrors, this will stop them from being bumped every time you open the door. I'll be including them in the future in with my adapters. if you have eccles-style or my custom mounts, you won't have this problem. £10+£3postage order on the site in my sig

just use Waze all the time. it'll warn you about speed cameras that you're approaching and the odd mobile speed camera that people have crowdsourced. it can be set to warn you if you're speeding and it'll show what the speed limit is, not what you think it is.

I had a bit of a brainwave and came up with this: they fit into the holes left by the rubbish Caterham mirrors and accepts a Spa or Motamec mirror (Spa mirror is better, more convex). these provide you with MUCH better visibility around you than the big crappy Caterham mirrors. they're sturdy and can be clamped down very hard. they have a hole in them for access to the dreaded Spa grub-screw and I supply them with a set of my friction cups to increase the clamping force on the Spa grub-screw and all the needed bolts. They come in Motamec or Spa fitting, 33 quid delivered and as usual, don't pay me until you're happy that they're worth it. more info at https://uberniche.co.uk/caterham-spa-adapters there's already some people using them that seem very happy: these were fitted by Caterham Gatwick.

posting is here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295754456440 I'll do them for 600 outside of ebay for a club member. collection from North London preferable but courier can be arranged.

cheers! I turned the limit screw half a gnat widge and got the site from 1.8 to 0.9 much below and it just conked out. J

Hey James, oh so the oscillation is good? I read /comment/2139800 and wasn't sure. I'll back it out and see where I get to. how do I balance ITBs? do I need an airflow meter of some sort? cheers. John

right. I've swapped out the plugs to the BR7EFS and I've managed to get a cable of one of our kind members. the throttle site is showing 1.8 when ignition turned on and 2.1 when running. I've recorded a log set of the car turning on and running up to 90degC do I just screw out the idle stop to reduce the idle? to me that seems to be the problem. the throttle cable has a very small bit of slack meaning it's the idle stop on the roller barrel. max throttle is 15.1 which I think is correct. TIA J