rkeywood

Hi Neal, No worries, try Chris first - he's the goto one stop shop for everything on older cars. To add to the above, if there's any problems with the bushes then it's only the shortened 636 and 2030 that are Caterham specific, the others are parts bin that can be sourced elsewhere if needed. Just looking at the Caterham lists from the Guide (without my head on it's side, thanks JK) I think they have the centre A frame bushes wrong - they're a pair of Y16. Also, if you have the additional top link and alternative roll bar fitted then you'll need an extra bush for the link that doesn't appear on the list - IIRC its a 2030 unmodified but Chris will put you right. Spalding Fasterners and Kayfast are good fallbacks for bolts etc. Robert

Hopefully Chris will be able to help with the bushes and brake bits you'll need. Presumably you'll need the nuts, bolt and washers as well. The front calipers are Girling type 14 as used on the Spitfire - I've used Rimmer Bros in the past https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005768 Rears, assuming it's Ital, are BL parts bin - Again Rimmers, or Ang, can help https://www.angclassiccarparts.co.uk/products/austin-morris-bmc/morris-marina-ital-allegro-maxi/brakes?qfs=1&p=1 The wheel cylinders are the same as the Spit and originally would probably have been 5/8" but common to change to the 3/4" (GWC1208). I'd normally get the shoes relined rather than buy new Here's the Caterham suspension lists if it helps F

Spalding Fasteners have sealed black rivets in 3.2 and 4mm (and all the other rivets and fixings under the sun!) https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/3-2mm-metric-aluminium-steel-black-sealed-dome-head-pop-rivets/

If Tunbridge Wells is not too far then give Radiator Repairers Bryan and Son a ring. He's an old school genius who can usually bring any old or modern radiator back to life. Also fixes car and bike petrol tanks.... Robert

If it is Triumph then Rimmer Bros might be able to help but I'm not sure it was Herald. IIRC the original Triumph Herald / Spit / GT6 levers were all U section levers with a short tubular section for the grip. The Caterham supply has a longer tubular section down to the business end. The ratchet plate mounting also looks different from that detail. Here's the Caterham one fitted (with rust to identify where you bend it!)

I think the shortened 636 and 2030 are bespoke to Caterham but all the others are parts bin bushes used on numerous cars (AH, MG, Ford, London Taxi...) easily available as pattern parts from elsewhere BUT quality varies and, after spending the time to trace the OEM part no, the saving is usually pennies. The Y9 and Y16 are QH parts and the last time I looked you could save about 10p a bush buying elsewhere. Far better to buy from and support Redline or Caterham. In 30+ years I've never had a 'fall apart rubber' bush from Caterham but I have from elsewhere.

Mine's primarily a track car so could use them but they are probably just too old. My thinking was that if I'm questioning whether I should use them when at least I have some control over how they are used I wouldn't want to pass them on when they could be used in any way, and potentially be party to someone's accident. Maybe find a skid pan and burn the life out of them...

Slightly off topic but the thought of taking my set of 021Rs that have been stored (abandoned?) on rims in an insulated garage for 15 years with less than 100 miles on them to the tip is rather upsetting. And they'll charge me £12 to dump them......

Hi, Use them on the bushes to take up the difference between the inner sleeve and the outer. They're 1mm thick and just fit what you can either side. The shortened 636 has been somewhat 'variable' in it's length in the past. Use them on the A frame chassis bushes as well and can be used on all the 636 bushes on the front suspension. R

Hi Have the A frame bushes been replaced recently? If not I'd certainly be looking to do those at the same time and to ensure the axle is aligned and shimmed correctly. In that case I'd simply drop the axle onto the protected chassis rails and do the lot in one go. The existing doesn't look like it has the plastic washer/shims packing out the bushes which you might want to add (Caterham list as 'Nylon Racing Washer Shims') . The bushes and shims are still stock items at Caterham as well as Redline. As an aside, I personally wouldn't use Powerflex and in any case I don't think the 636 bush in the radius arm is available (I've machined the std PF99 in the past). Robert

Hi Alan, I'm with the earlier posters - mine has the connections 1 1/4" from the pipe and not found the need to shield. The starter solenoid is even closer to no 3 but again no issues. I've got oil pipes to the dry sump tank running along the chassis above and below which are wrapped. I've about the same power as you and the exhaust temp' looks worryingly hot on the rolling road but never caused an problem on track or road. R

Socket cap head bolt is possibly a replacement as original supply was hex head, or at least it was when I got mine, and commonly change to make fitting easier. It's a 1/2 x 4" UNF and will be a 3/8" Allen as you say. C spanners are either 1.9 or 2.25" - it's the latter for coil over dampers. Robert

As above. I do single handed so usually lift the car on a chassis stand to get a good bit of space under. Move the axle one until the backplate clears the chassis and drop that end, then back the other way to clear the other side and drop that. Doing without the tank makes life easier R

Re the wishbone removal. It's a pair of bushes in the front mount - prise the front one out and that'll give you enough movement to swing the back out, then pull the front forward. R

Does the bolt feel like its turning on the rubber and then springs back when you take the spanner off? If the bearing inner is seized to the bolt along it's length then it'll be tough to move. Rost Off Ice might work, otherwise I guess you're cutting in front of the chassis upright. Robert

I was looking at those - I found the 3335 version (on Amazon and elsewhere under several brand names) which seems a very similar scale with the same functionality and £20 cheaper. I was going to buy one to see what they are like but haven't got round to it and at the end of the day may just stick with an old school cornerweight guage.

You're right, the iron bellhousing doesn't need the washer with the OE pin but, if I recall correctly, the last pin I bought from Burton needed the washer when fitted in the iron housing as well. They list the washer so worth calling them or just buying in case. R

That's good. Worth getting a new pin as well. Also, there may well be (or should be) a washer between the sleeve and bell housing; I can't remember if the iron and aluminium bell housings are the same. Check the sleeve length against that of the pin from the shoulder to the top. R

I'd fit a new anti-rattle sleeve - the pin shouldn't be take much effort to remove and Ford OE sleeves cost about £1. Both pin and sleeve are readily available from the likes of Burton Power R

Graham Sykes article tells you pretty much everything you need to know and a decent, properly refurb'd axle shouldn't give you any problems on the road or track. Mine's had a lot of track use and only needed bearings and seals. I upgraded to a Quaife ATB as well not long after getting the car and that's proven to be bulletproof. The silly little plastic breather, particularly the OE one Caterham supplied at times, has a tendency to fail so treat as a consumable when changing oil (it's an MGB 21H6060). Most important thing is fitting the axle and making sure it's shimmed to align and remove any side to side movement. You might want to look at the brakes and change to 3/4" wheel cylinders, if not fitted already. Decent linings also help get the most out of the drum brakes. Relining is the easiest way to get something that suits what you want to do with the car. I've used Questmead in the past. Hope this helps Robert

Hi, I never got on with Powerflex (which can still be bought singly in the sizes needed) and would stick with standard from Redline or caterham direct. At the end of the day a little compliance is not a bad thing, just change them regularly. I'd do all bushes annually and A frame more often if used heavily. Also get the thin plastic washers to shim them and reduce flexing in the wrong direction. If they've deteriorated to the point the rubber is going you'll most likely need bolts as well as new nylocs. You can get these with the suspension bush kit or from any bolt supplier (Kay's Fastenings and Spalding Fasteners are good). Rose jointing is whole different and costly ballgame that wouldn't be high on my list even for a track car. I'm also not sure on the extent of the bending - on mine the dampers are splayed by 1/8" which limits what is in any case a very small movement and the tops 'float' in the top runner bobbins. I've driven several car with rose jointed rear ends in the past and chose not to do it on mine, which, whilst largely a race car, still had plenty of road use. Decent dampers do however make a big difference. R

I've emailed Shaun with a couple of bits to add. I've just moved to the Norfolk / Suffolk borders (near Scole) and have pretty much everything needed to maintain / rebuild an old school live axle car including engine build. Also general engineering tools like taps and dies, brake flare, multi-meter, a handy rocker grinding jig and machining. Robert

Hi If it's the long bolt that goes through the centre of the wheel into the socket in the back of the car then it's 3/8 UNF on my '89 live axle R

I've a VDO sender from an '89 X Flow that was working fine when removed. You're welcome have it - BM your address and I'll post it if you want to try it. Robert

The SVC ones are polished stainless rather than chrome R