rkeywood

From what I've seen the cutaways that come up on Ebay, and elsewhere, are usually prints from the Lotus manual (as #6) or the early Caterham manual. The latter illustration is by Peter Baker who worked for Autocar and did other cutaways, such as the FW08, and I don't think was ever produced as a print. The original cutaway version that does come up for sale occasionally is Shin Yoshikawa's beautiful Lotus S2. There was a run of 100 numbered and signed copies and one of these came up for sale in a set of 6 Lotus drawings, all numbered 35/100, last year. There's an unsigned S2 copy on Ebay from the States at present but I'd want to be certain it's an original. The 16"x20" S2 is noted as in stock at Kai Art in the States who I think still published them (these versions are noted 'Published by Kai' in the bottom right). Hope this helps R

Ed, It yours.

Anyone interested in this before I stick it on Fleabay? Good condition, very few miles. Cost of postage plus donation to charity pot. Robert

I've still got the original bits from the Supersprint kit that Caterham supplied in '89 and yep, the cam is a 234. I just put a steel rule on the valves so could be 33.8, but inlet no bigger than 40.

Supersprint valves were 34/40mm R

Hi Tazio, here's the period Caterham spec sheets Hope this helps, Robert

If that's the case then I've full set of 160 wheels sitting on my drive on a '58 plate Citroen C1! For the price that Caterham charge I'd throw the car in with a set of second hand wheels. I've bought new original Toyota wheels from Toyota Official Store on Ebay for £34 delivered. Crazily the identical C1 wheels are £65!. The wheels are stamped on the humps between the studs 4/2J x 14 H2 ET39. They are 4 x 100 PCD with 54mm centres. Only available in black For the OP there's plenty of 5J alloy options for the Aygo/107/C1. Revolution seems a good shout (as suggested above) as the size / offset needed looks like it fall into their 4 spoke machine to fit sizes Hope that helps

You could try Bryan and Son in Camdon Road, Tunbridge Wells 01892 544635. His main business is radiator repairs but he does tanks as well. He's well known for repairing classic and vintage stuff. I've used him a couple of times for radiator jobs and he's been very good. When I was in there a couple of years back he was talking of retiring so may have gone by now Robert

5/16 UNF philips pan head screws originally on my '89 car but recently swapped to M8 x 20 socket button head which fitted fine (M8 only a few thou bigger than 5/16)

7/16" UNF is 20 tpi. If you're wanting to replace the existing like for like then check the markings on the head for tensile strength. Regular High Tensile (as Kays list) will be marked 8.8 or three radial lines (US Grade 5) or maybe an 'S' on older bolts. Higher Tensile will be 10.9 or 6 radial lines (US Grade 8) or 'V'. Socket caps are usually higher tensile 12.9.

I use both the above for a lot of workshop supplies and found them very good - their regular websites can be easier to use and more comprehensive than their ebay shops (Kays is Kayfast.co.uk). Westfield fastenings (absolutely no association with you know what!!) are also very good for imperial stuff and tech' info. You may well need to ring round suppliers as the Caterham image looks odd to me - 7/16 x 1 1/2" socket caps are usually supplied as fully threaded set screws at that size whereas hex head are available part threaded (1 1/8" thread). Also plated cap socket are less common. I've not seen the uprated calipers fitted but does it need to be a socket cap head? Hope this helps

Do they feel slightly oily to touch or is it just dry powder? In the past I've had trumpet socks disintegrate like that when stored. The similar FF filters also suffered with drying out and needed cleaning and oiling although the website now describes them as 'disposable'. The website and instructions in the packet seem to differ. The maintenance slip that comes with the trumpet socks and the FF PX400, that look like a similar media, seems to be generic instructions and lists 'race filter' (1000 miles, maintain and oil), 'oiled filter' (20000 miles, maintain and oil) and 'dry filter' (20000 miles clean and wash). It also says that "Race filters are not suitable for road use!". Nowhere does it say which of the 3 types you've actually got. Send the pic' to PX and ask them what's happened and how they should be looked after?

Is the PX600 an oiled filter? Their website notes it as 'competition foam'. If that's the same as their 'race' filters then I've found they deteriorate very quickly if not cleaned and oiled regularly. The instructions for the race filters are to clean and oil every 1000 miles but possibly needs to be more regular if not used.

Thanks for update. Unfortunately I'm old school Ital.

Hi, what PCD are they? Thanks

Hi. Just to add, the 'standard' offset I mentioned is not a Weller standard as such, it was just a common way of distinguishing the different offset used on FF1600's. Back in the heyday of FF1600 Weller must have made thousands of FF wheels but they also made a lot of other variants for other cars. It'll be interesting to see what they say. It looks like their range is much more limited now. The pair on ebay (#6) are the ones I saw and look like 34mm offset which won't work. It also looks like the Weller discount may have been weel received as they're sold out of 3.75 PCD wheels!

Weller still do the classic Triumph rims with the 4 narrow slots around the edge of the centre (if that makes sense!). The guy with a garage next door to mine restoring a GT6 bought some recently, I think he said £120+ a rim! Offset on the Triumph rims was, I think, about 3/4".

Hi. The size and 14 hole pattern look the same as the Weller Formula Ford wheels but the ET13 is odd - the 3.75 PCD FF wheels were a 9mm offset ('standard') or 34mm ('Van Demien'). It may be worth a call to Weller to see whether they were a standard product or if they only made a small batch as specials. If you can use 9mm offset (87mm backdepth) then new from Weller they were close to £400 a set when I last looked - great for FF where they take a beating but expensive for a steel road rim. Sets come up on ebay occasionally or from secondhand race part suppliers. There's a pair listed on ebay at the moment with no reserve but the offset needs checking. IIRC the number stamped on the old FF wheels was the number of holes, PCD and offset so the 4 375 9 or 4 375 34. The number on that pair looks like it ends in 34. Hope this helps a bit

Off topic but just quick thanks to rj for the assembly guide link - It's great to have a digitised copy of my 88 guide and a fully legible wiring diagram R

Hi Alan, The semi-rigid black nylon original in mine is 8mm OD x 6mm ID so a regular 5/16" copper line should be a direct replacement with the same OD and slightly larger ID (6.17mm) Robert

I've a pair of old backplates and covers in the garage you can have if they are of any use. The chrome on the covers come with some fine stippling but re-chroming would be cheaper than new. Filters on fleabay at £35.

If you can't get a cable then it might be worth looking at motorcycle throttle cable repair kits. I got one for £6 from a local dealer that came in a tin with 1.2m each of 1mm and 2mm cable. One end of the cable had a 5mm fixed bead and there were about a dozen different loose ends

I've also found the Wurth Rost Off range better than most. Tends to be stocked by decent motor factors but readily available online. I'm guessing the above is maybe beyond sprays now but the 'Ice' and 'Blue Ice' from the range are freeze and crack products which worked well for me recently when stripping a Stuart marine engine that had been underwater and then in a barn for a long time.

Thanks, I've been offered a secondhand heated screen by another member so should be sorted

I'm guessing the Land Rover screen is thicker than the original screen so presumably a bonding job rather than the rubber seal? Pretty much convinced myself to put a heated screen back by whatever is the cheapest way.