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rkeywood

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Everything posted by rkeywood

  1. rkeywood
    Googling Procomp Motorsport will bring up current contact details and on Facebook
  2. rkeywood
    I wouldn't have thought you'd have an issue with a static test. I've used various 1700 and 1600 race engines with 234 and 244s and std exhaust over the years without a problem. 3/4 'max' revs is not that high.
  3. rkeywood
    Locost presumably (Photo credit D.Wallens)
  4. rkeywood
    Plain nut and spring washer as Weber details here
  5. rkeywood
    'Race washers' generally fitted on all the 636 and 2030 bushes front and rear to pack the bush so the outer length is closer to the inner, in the same way as you'd fit the nylon thrust washers on a Powerflex bush. A standard 636 has a bore length of 35mm and outer length of 32mm.
  6. rkeywood
    And further to #7 800mm long
  7. rkeywood
    Here's the dim's for the ends - I can copy onto card and send to you if you want. I'll check the length in the car tomorrow. I've fitted in both an '86 live axle crossflow and my '89 car.
  8. rkeywood
    I have a card template for the section of the tank Caterham supplied a while back and can post the measurements if that helps. The tank was a few centimetres different from than the '86 steel tank it replaced but fitted OK with a bit of adjustment to the securing straps. The fuel gauge sender holes may be different - I think the current tanks are 6 holes and the earlier gauge senders 5 holes.
  9. rkeywood
    It's a standard 3/8" x 24 UNF parallel (same as brake fittings), 5 bar, NO switch as used on loads of old British Cars. The Caterham supply is/was an Intermotor 51610. The Lucas equivalent is SPB401. Both are widely available. The Kelvedon switch is their equivalent. I'd go for the Lucas. Not sure how you'd convert an '88 pedal arrangement to a mechanical switch
  10. rkeywood
    Possibly a hydraulic switch? '88 sounds a too early for a mechanical switch (my '89 is hydraulic)
  11. rkeywood
    Hi Nigel, If you've not done so already then search out 'The Great Axle Debate' by Graham Sykes in the Low Flying archive. Should tell you all you need to know about the differences in the axles. This doesn't mention any difference between the 1300 & 1700 Ital shafts either and I'd have thought it would if there was one Rob
  12. rkeywood
    Can't be 100% from the front on photo but looks like triangulated with ARB only. This is the arrangement 1/8" overall - conversion here. Start at 30' and see how it goes. 24 turns on the ends should get you about there. The ride height and steering rack height give you a bit to play with on the front end characteristics. From the photo it looks like the steering rises quite a bit to the arm and the front may be running fairly low. The additional link is a decent upgrade (simple bolt on but does need a new ARB) - this is the arrangement: The negative camber wishbones are stamped 'N'. 22 turns on the ends gets you about right for these but I'd look for about 10' with the additional link fitted. Hope this helps Rob
  13. rkeywood
    The front suspension differs on the early cars - what does yours have? IIRC the '89 De Dion had the top link triangulated by the rubber bushed ARB and no adjustment for camber or caster. The factory recommendation for this was 1/8" toe in and, in my experience, about right for the road. If the additional link to triangulate the top suspension and optional negative camber lower wishbone are fitted then the general take was to run closer to parallel, or parallel.
  14. rkeywood
    Not sure I understand that fully but the OE 'inertia' ring gear is 110T and the pre-engaged 135T (132T pre '70). The Lucas OE inertia pinions were usually 9T but also supplied as 10T and are 29mm pinion gears. The pre-engaged pinion gear is smaller (25.5mm). I wouldn't worry too much about the OE starter variations as the gear reduction replacements are made to suit either of the ring gears. Both Edge and Powerlite will supply with 9T 29mm pinions for 110T ring gears so looks like you're good to go. Is it an RAC109?
  15. rkeywood
    Counting in a PITA! You should be able to see from the tooth shape - square for the pre-engaged whilst inertia have a taper
  16. rkeywood
    Are you sure the current starter and ring gear aren't mismatched ie a 9T inertia starter gear into a 135T pre-engaged ring gear? Sounds like it could be binding under load with the gears not meshing properly - are there any witness marks on the starter gear?
  17. rkeywood
    Part no for Girling Type 12 caliper bleed nipple is 601959 - it's a 3/8" x24TPI 'long pattern'
  18. rkeywood
    I've not seen the Caterham supplied one but it looks like the old Austin Rover type. Try this exhaust spring but do check it's the same
  19. rkeywood
    '5LC' would normally indicates a factory built car - kit built / component cars normally have a K as the first character. Maybe the original purchaser took it as CKD to avoid Caterhams build queue! Without additional evidence of amateur build (eg notes on registration doc) then testing as a 1990 car would seem right. Hopefully the paperwork will resolve things but might be worth seeing if DVLC will add a note re amateur build on the V5 for the future.
  20. rkeywood
    Assuming standard wet sump then as a starting point a normal crossflow fill is 3.3 litres. The oil cooler will add to this. As would a remote filter and non-standard sump. If the cooler is in it's normal location (rear of rad' pre 87 and front of rad' post 87) then the pipes are routed upwards from the cooler and it won't self drain. Both filter and cooler should be pre-filled. After initial fill I'd turn the engine over without plugs to ensure its circulating and the pressure is up, then run it hot and check it on the dipstick. The best crossflow I've driven was one of Roger's 1800s, hopefully he'll be along to add as needed Rob
  21. rkeywood
    Yep, not much difference but any improvement is worthwhile. I've not seen any 1" cylinder fitted. The friction material makes a big difference and worth talking to one of the companies that re-line shoes (such as Safetek or Questmead for Mintex Classic) about the options Rob
  22. rkeywood
    To see where the timing is now put a test lamp between the distributor LT connection and earth. Rotate the engine with a spanner on the crank bolt (plugs removed, ignition on) until No 1 piston is rising on compression stroke (rotor arm opposite No1 pin). When the light just comes on see where the notch on the crank pulley is against the timing marks on the front cover. If it's close to 10 deg then I'm guessing the problem is elsewhere. If it's well over 10 then continue to rotate the crank to 10, slacken off the distributor clamp, back the distributor off anti-clockwise, then rotate it clockwise until the light just comes on and reclamp. Rob
  23. rkeywood
    I've used Curd Bros in Tunbridge Wells for all sorts of refurbs which doesn't look too far from you. Proper old school guys who rebuilt in the workshop with some great old machines.
  24. rkeywood
    I'd look at the starter - a standard starter will be around 10Nm and should turn a motor with higher compression. I've still got an original 30 year old Lucas M35J type on mine which worked happily with 10.8 CR. The main advantage of a gear reduction high torque starter is about 3kg weight saving. Inertia starters were 9 tooth pinion and 110 tooth ring gear. Pre-engaged were 10 tooth 135 ring gear. If you do want to swap then Edge (Burton stock these) and Powerlite both do 9 tooth direct replacements. Edge do 10T direct replacememts as well. Rob
  25. rkeywood
    Marinas/Itals used 5/8", 11/16" and 3/4" over time for the various engines and bodies so guess it depends on who built the axle and what they chose. Caterham supply in the early 90's was 11/16" which was the standard fit for almost all Itals (diesels and 575 vans were 5/8" I think).
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