OldAndrewE
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Everything posted by OldAndrewE
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I think in the standard wiring colours Green is a fused switched live. If using the green you need to check the rating of the fuse guarding it.
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inconspicuous white smoke from heating/heat exchanger
OldAndrewE replied to tuvok4711's topic in TechTalk
Was it smoke or was it steam? Was there any smell of burning? Steam would imply a water leak from the heater pipes or matrix, smoke could possibly be a wiring fault of fan motor overheating. The heater would not get hot enough for anything external (bugs or leaves) to burn -
First guess is a new relay is required.
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Info on the Demon Tweeks website for the Stack gauge: Bar scale gauges are supplied with metric M10x1 male fittings, PSI scale gauges are supplied with imperial 1/8NPT male fitting Which gauge do you have, one in psi or one in bars?
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Reply to #1 "This booking link is for Caterham and Lotus 7 Club members only so please do not share this booking link publically." Please note that I can see the link when not signed in, i.e. as a non-member (and the link works)
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Try Redline Components for any Caterham parts
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When Arch did mine they picked it up from my house in Hertfordshire (near Essex border). They were on the way back from CC in Dartford. The transport was a Luton van so only suitable for a chassis, not complete car. If you are reasonably close to the M11 it may be worth seeing if Arch can do anything for you
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If you look on the competitors tab at the top of the page there is a drawing there that will help you make one
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7/16" UNF
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The first thing I would do is jack the front up so the wheels are off the ground. There should now be virtually no resistance to turning the steering from lock to lock. If this is the case then your issue must surely be steering geometry, if not then something mechanical in the steering system
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372228875618?chn=ps&var=641079227297&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=641079227297_372228875618&targetid=1278608950976&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=1006734&poi=&campaignid=14727339348&mkgroupid=127909237815&rlsatarget=pla-1278608950976&abcId=9300672&merchantid=7262424&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgP6PBhDmARIsAPWMq6lpC6tqHTCR9cTOCQCTzFQvu5AmrHPhIkrg5f_9tzOTSVBFA3M3bbsaAhW_EALw_wcB Detail further down the page says they are steel
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I have used jacknuts, but not on a Seven. Used them on PVC window frames to attach security items and for that they worked well. Ideally they still need a setting tool and I actually used my rivnut tool. All the rivnuts I have seen were steel so I would think aluminium rivnuts would be a better option to minimise the threat of corrosion to the scuttle
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Correct so just adjust until the pedal is in the correct place. I presume you will need to adjust the brake light switch as well (mine is hydraulic)
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What is the set-up on your car (photo?). On mine adjusting the pushrods just sets the pedal positions fore and aft
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No need to apologise! It is a reference to these areas of the chassis
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OK Ian, interesting. Very useful to have that jig to allow you to drill in exactly the correct place.
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What do you mean by a small oil heater - an oil filled radiator or something burning fuel?
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OK Ian, sometimes they work and other not. Not that expensive so possibly having a set just in case.
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Going back to the original problem of removing rusted nuts and bolts have you ever tried this sort of thing? Irwin 7pce Screw & Bolt Extractor Set - Machine Mart - Machine Mart
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Disconnecting the A-frame at the diff will make no difference. I would leave that in place until you want to work in that area. I would disconnect the top damper mount and then remove the lower bolt to remove the damper completely. Do one side at a time and support that end of the axle on your floor jack
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So you can remove the radius arms to do the bushes by removing the front nut and bolt and the rear nut. You should then be able to remove the radius arm from the bolt on the axle. I would do one side at a time.
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Do you want to remove the axle to do the work or will you do it in situ?
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They are taper roller bearings. There is no torque setting - do them up just enough to get rid of play. If split pin does not line up undo slightly to line up. Beware of doing up too tight
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You also need to know what end fittings you need (male or female) and what flares are on the pipe ends
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Can't help with the length but brake pipes are usually 3/16" dia.
