SamC

I've not heard a dickybird...

What an absolute beaut. Bargain too…… An awful lot of car for the cash.

I would. Mine constantly leaked until I put a non sensor cap on. The bellows prevent leakage by sealing the reservoir whilst still allowing the fluid volume to expand and contract with piston travel, temp etc.

Grease between the stud and the wheel hub is fine. That will help removal if it is ever needed. The threads that protrude out of the wheel hub that the nuts are fastened onto should be dry and not have grease on them The reason is both due to reducing thread friction, meaning the load in the stud goes up, and the stirring motion created by a rotating, loaded, wheel has an increased chance of loosening the nuts.

You know you’ve made it when you’ve had damper settings named after you James!

I’ve stuck one of these to my windscreen. Works a treat (unless you have an aero screen of course! 😂) You can position it so that the phone just obscures the bonnet so you don’t lose any visibility and it’s pretty unobtrusive when there isn’t a phone on it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nillkin-SnapHold-Compatible-Magnetic-Bathroom/dp/B0B7JBF8BG?pd_rd_w=XtBzw&content-id=amzn1.sym.38f90169-67d8-49b7-8ef1-61bdff262c06&pf_rd_p=38f90169-67d8-49b7-8ef1-61bdff262c06&pf_rd_r=85H40SRDS2X22E3JEDKG&pd_rd_wg=8kkEr&pd_rd_r=f6893ef2-2a7c-498a-af28-a57e8ed5fc45&pd_rd_i=B0B7JBF8BG&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_1_sc

Example from a Facebook post (not mine). Mine has a small horizontal crack but no vertical.

Yep, I agree, just warning that it appears a crack can form both vertically and horizontally in that location, so worth heading the next failure point off at the pass.

I’ve noticed the same this winter although my crack runs perpendicular to yours along the fold line to the chassis panel. I bonded a 90 degree doubler along the back, but seeing yours I suspect it’ll just run vertically now. A doubler behind the hook that runs round the return looks to be the best plan then!

If the cones are the same, your new nuts are 100% fine.

The cone angle looks different to me? If the angle is different, that’s a big problem.

There's no downsides in terms of strength/untightening/etc. for an over length nut, so if they look tidier, then I'd stay with them.

Pete, are your new wheels the same thickness through the stud mounts as the old ones? The CSR studs on the front are shorter than the ones on new Caterhams and the nuts on mine (with standard wheels) are longer than the stud length. Im going to replace the studs on mine for longer versions at some point, but it isnt a 100% necessity. It may be in your case though if your new wheels have reduced the thread engagement. As a minimum you will want 10mm of engagement of an M12x1.5 at 85Nm, but ideally you’d have 18mm (1.5x diameter)

UNF (24TPI)

(Cover the shank in copper slip or equivalent when installing to help prevent corrosion)