Benton

Had a rear ZZS "plugged" from self tapper screw damage about two inches in from the edge. Lasted 9 months/5000+ miles no problems.

I agree Surrey is far too "trafficked" these days. South of Petworth, around Goodwood, South Harting, North of Chichester etc. are your best bets Try downloading an app called CaliMoto if you don't already have it. Whilst it doesn't come up with instant blatting roads It occasionally comes up with some interesting suggestions I otherwise wouldn't have bothered to try.

Taken from Simon's website ..... Basically fitting some sort of revised rear basket, not exactly a home DIY job! How does this new basket tie up with the existing rear skin, hopefully Simon will be along later to explain.

#10 Since fitting mine I haven't had to "wave" Why Caterham don't fit them as standard I don't know.

There's a description in the Owners Manual on how to "couple" a new tag, the question is does your car display the same characteristics if you use the other "spare" tag? In my case the actual immobiliser "black box" on one occasion packed up completely. It had as it turns out given some early warning signs insofar as I noticed the red indicator would flash occasionally for about a minute whilst driving the car!, even though it didn't affect the cars running. Then one day when I went to start the car, the led status never changed from its slow flashing (armed) to the quick flashing (ready to disarm) state and the car had to be recovered to Caterham and a whole new unit fitted.

Rather than before having to frantically wave the immobiliser fob around near the ignition switch, I've found that having fitted this highly expensive piece of Caterham plastic (that holds the aerial wire in a loop away from the ignition barrel), the immobiliser always nearly immediately disarms just by turning the key with the fob naturally swinging from the key ring This does assume however that the immobiliser itself isn't on the way out ...... I've had one pack up that had to be replaced.

So anybody done 10,000 miles on the SPC unit yet?

#535 May have changed but Caterham Warranty used to be 24 months or upto12,000 miles for new cars

You have PM re Momo 290mm

Over a year ago had a set of ZZSs fitted by Caterham. Found out a couple of days later one of the rears had slightly dropped pressure and through using some soapy water I found it hadn't obviously seated/sealed properly in a couple of areas. Caterham tried refitting but the problem persisted and so they ended up having to replace it with a new tyre. I assume the original tyre had some kind of manufacturing defect, must happen sometimes.

Clay Lane Guildford this morning

Two things :- 1. don't pull too much on the rubber mounts when your fitting otherwise the rubber part can separate from the imbedded metal plate that's supporting the bolt. 2. be aware the link pipe by the nature of its design hangs close to the ground .... watch out for sleeping policemen etc.

The 620 exhaust has a cat built in to the main silencer part, so you don't need your old cat but you'd need instead a non cat collector pipe. The rear of the silencer hangs off two exhaust rubber mounts which bolt onto the chassis either side, hopefully the appropriate mounting points will be there. Be aware that I think the linking pipe for the 620 exhaust front and rear parts comes in two sizes/lengths to cater for the S3 and SV models. Hopefully you've got the right one.

No experience of Jenveys but had Caterham 420R RBTB done. Positives:- sound, better mapping/pickup/cold starts, more mid range torque (through seat of pants measurement), pops and bangs! Negatives:- slightly heavier throttle action (soon got used to it), needed to buy a decat pipe to avoid destroying catalytic converter, cost! Would probably do it again if I had a 420

Mine certainly wasn't extended like that when fitted by Caterham

As a starting point either go back to the dealer, or find a local friendly Caterham owner, who has a copy of the Easimap diagnostic software, who can check whether the various sensor inputs to the ECU are working and correctly calibrated, e.g. things like a duff lambda sensor (which have been known to fail very early on) can screw up the fueling big time.

Just search for Caterham 620 Owners Group. It's a private group.

Also spotted at Newlands Corner this morning!

Had it on my 1 year old 420R! Hairline crack developed where internal baffle had been welded. Luckily under warranty so new tank fitted.

If you haven't already I suggest you post your question / visit the Facebook Caterham 620 Owners Group definitely a number of members have explored and deployed different options

Glad you got it sorted

On the basis that you've been back to Caterham twice with lambda problems I would have thought by now Caterham would have double-checked the TPS calibration alongside the lambda function by connecting it up to Easimap, Because my car was originally under warranty I didn't go down the PGM cooling mod route and instead utilised some plastic correx board cable-tied to the nose grill, which I still do today. Through experimentation I've found I can quite happily keep the engine in the 80-90 degrees range (road usage) using this method, though I'm assuming my car does have a thermostat fitted. Hardly ideal but seems to do the job. The consensus seems to be to properly sort out all of the 620 "opportunities" you need to:- get the cooling mod done, get a new ECU/remap, and whilst you're at it, sort out the suspension, replace the LSD and possibly the exhaust ....... maybe I'll set up a GoFundMe page

After the initial problems I had with the TPS setup and duff lambda were sorted the current lambda has been working fine for over 12 months / 5000 miles with no problems.

On the 620R it's a Ford part 3M51-9F472-BC, Bosch 258006599 equivalent, however this may not be the same for the 620S. Best take it out and read the serial number off the side. When mine went kaput whilst under warranty and was awaiting Caterham to replace it (they didn't have any in stock at the time!) I bought a used one off eBay for £20 which worked perfectly well. New ones from Caterham were over £170 at the time . There were however other cheaper supposedly equivalent new lambdas available on eBay. If you can find a friendly local Caterham owner with a copy of Easimap software they can soon check whether it's the lambda and look at the TPS setting.

Prime suspects are lambda sensor not working and/or TPS not adjusted correctly, been there! What mpg are you getting? Has it just started happening or has it been like this all the time? Be aware the overall standard factory mapping is sub optimal which certainly doesn't help matters, If you want to splash the cash then a new ECU and remap from the likes of PGM should certainly resolve the problem.