Benton

CtrMint - Thanks for the info Luckily haven’t got any extra suspension parts, but have got the extra diff bracing plus the plumbed in fire extinguisher, which it seems you can’t remove without taking off at least one of the diff braces…Also just remembered since last trying I’ve added some extra “carpeting” to the bare metal boot areas which no doubt will try to get in the way. Maybe I’ll just forget it for another year 😀

I liked the idea of routing the loom neatly under the boot floor. Having read how it can be a bit of a faff getting the boot floor out, a while ago I thought I’d have a trial go before committing myself to purchasing the lights. What defeated me was the black box (fuel pump control module I assume) firmly fixed to the bottom of the boot floor, with certainly in my case its associated cable tied wiring with apparently zero slack, I couldn’t see any way of getting anywhere near the control module plug/socket in order to unplug it, so I gave up! Has anyone come across this problem or am I going about it the wrong way? Thanks.

This is what I’d call spraying …..

This is the sub loom Though the Caterham labelling is slightly confusing as Duratecs use both types square and round Bosch lambdas.

The fact that the Bosch 0258003229 type was originally a Rover lambda sensor and Bosch 0258006599 type was/is a generically used sensor across the Ford range, plus certainly in the case of Caterham Duratec applications I've come across both being used for 620 and 420 models, I wouldn't be surprised if Caterham use whatever they have in stock at build time! Whether the characteristics of the sensors are the same (part from their connector type/sub loom etc.) or they require different mapping/wiring who knows, I've never tried swapping the two.

The original sensor fitted should have the original Ford part number stamped on it together with hopefully the Bosch equivalent number (provided you can still read the values ). There seem to be two types fitted to the 620's , one with a square connector and one with a round connector, though my 620R has a square to round connector subloom! The round connector is part no. Ford 3M51-9F472-BC. My "spare" (though I've never needed it) I bought "preowned" off EBay for £20!. Are you having problems hence your query? Update:- Forgot the Bosch part no! - 0258006599

Don't know if you've come across this article

Looked at options a few years ago, though the world may have moved on ..... As far as I'm aware there is no Caterham equivalent side pipe. "Lego Cat" used to use a R500 silencer with a bespoke collector. Having had a passenger ride all I can say was it was bl@&dy loud! Raceco do a couple of "off the shelf" pipes but at the time both needed modified collector pipes. The alternative is to get Raceco to make a custom pipe which allows you to retain your original collector. For all the above (certainly in the past) I believe you lose having a catalytic convertor, therefore you would need to reinstate the original system at mot time. (The catalyst being internal in the original 620 side pipe)

As suggested I have replied to you via your email address. Cheers

revilla - Could you please respond to the messages I've sent via Blatchat and eBay regarding my order. Thank you.

Certainly on my car the rubber mounts are slightly chamfered on the appropriate side so to avoid interference with the chassis tube. That's how it came from Caterham so I assume it's correct. Not sure what you mean by curved hanger mount? The link pipe hanger (the part that goes through the rubber mount) is straight and parallel/aligned to the longest pipe run. If you're using the mounts in tension rather than compression then effectively you're relying on a very small cross section of rubber, at the ends of the embedded metal plate, to support the weight of the rear exhaust and the link pipe!

Every Caterham I've driven with a BMW diff has had a whine to some extent, typically starting around 55mph. My Sierra diff certainly appears less whiny, however that could be because it's masked by the gear noise from the sequential gearbox! Knocking from the drive train can be caused by a number of components, any slight take up stack between the components will be amplified due to the chassis design. It's certainly worth jacking the car up and checking the various components but don't be surprised if you don't find anything obviously wrong!

Looks like Caterham could have some competition

Red FX15.@@@ just before the NT car park at top of the hill,

Thanks for the update, take all the time you need to get it sorted and above all enjoy your break!

Typically the doors drop over time due to their weight on the hinges, causing misalignment. If currently you can lift the door slightly and then the "popper" engages properly then that's the problem. You could try loosing the bolts on the door side of the hinge, clip the door into position and then re-tighten the door hinge bolts. Normally works for a while.

Ordered Module and LED this morning, just read incompatibility problem, great shame. BM'd and EBay messaged (user:- blackwelot) to cancel, sorry. Hope you find a solution going forwards.

#7 If you now put some Woodsilk on top it'll protect it for a while, otherwise when it happens again just repeat the same exercise

WD40 first, spray on and leave overnight. Works on "recent" water marks, not sure it works on those that have been there some time however, no harm in trying though.

As I mentioned in one of the earlier referred to threads, Ive never had this problem despite being soaked from storms above, and below from having to drive through floodwater. The rest of car (footwells, underseats etc.) has certainly had to be been bailed out in the past. When washing the car I'm careful not to use excessive amounts of water, no pressure washing or spraying the bonnet with a hose etc. Isn't the top of the engine coils/plugs area, under the top cover the same set up as the rest of the Duratec range so not sure why it would be 620 specific? The only possible factor could be the 620 nose cone design with its extra cutouts, but since it now seems more people like to replace the standard non-620 nose cones for 620 ones, (is this the equivalent putting an M Sport badge on your standard BMW? ), in these scenarios there must be more water entering the engine bay when driving in the rain, as there isn't any supercharger cooler in the way, and therefore even more chance of water accumulating for these cases as opposed to the 620. If I were a betting man I'd go for the over enthusiastic washing combined with putting the car away without running it sufficiently to dry it out. Be interested to know what if anything Caterham come back with.

Have had previous experience with failed lambdas....... #8 With my 420R the first lambda sensor failed before the first 600 mile service! Replacement was fine and still working 17,000 miles later when I sold the car. #9 When the lambda sensor failed in my 620R the "default" map running meant the car smelt like an oil refinery and sooted the plugs etc., confirmed the failure by using Easimap, Original sensor failed around the 1,200 mile mark. Photo below showing left non working lamdba, right working! Replacement is still working fine 7000+ miles later.

The symptoms you describe to me appear to be localised electrical gremlins (e.g. maybe a poor earth to the instruments etc.) if it's affecting more than one instrument assuming the car is running perfectly fine atm. Access to the ODBC/ECU will confirm the rest of the car is OK but not what's causing the gauge problem. Unfortunately there's no single diagnostic plug-in tool I'm aware of to identify the sort of problem your describing. If I was faced with the problem with my own car it would probably be a process of elimination using a combination of multimeter testing/tracing wires, checking earth mounting points and if necessary swapping out components as a last resort to eliminate them from causing the issue i.e. it could be something dead simple or turn into a bit of a mare In your case since the car is newish, back to the dealer to be sorted under warranty would be my route. To help them, try to video any "evidence" of the problem/record under what circumstances when it happens etc. to aid the investigation.

Just for awareness.....

No longer wanted

For info a picture I came across of another 620 SV airbox connection/positioning