Benton

#5 True Though judging by the price difference the S3 box must be better

Maybe Caterham having fitted the engine went to connect up the air box and found it didn't align properly. Rather than trying to alter the angle of the inlet pipe, which in probability would have been a bugger to alter in situ, went for the easier option instead and "propped up the airbox", or the packing was used to help "set" the angle of the pipe in the first place and as you say they forgot to remove it , not that I'm casting nasturtiums for either scenario Of course it could be a new secret go faster mod

When you say poking out the bottom, do you mean it was sitting under the air filter box or in the box itself? If it was in the box then it could have been put there to catch any surplus oil from when the air filter was "oiled up", I certainly don't have a piece of foam in mine. If the piece was under the air filter box then I'm afraid I've never removed the whole box so anything could be lurking under there As an aside, it might be the angle of the photo but your rubber connection hose to the airbox to me doesn't seem to be as "nicely seated" as mine. Probably nothing but maybe worth taking a look.

Just to confuse the picture REiS (the broker) is part of the wider Markerstudy Group (see last line)

ACF-50 can act as a lubricant and effectively is non-drying. Not the thing to try to paint over I'm afraid.

Firstly I'm slightly bemused as to why agreed value cover cannot be provided for "newish" cars in both your cases via APlan. I bought my 420R in 2018 and replaced it with a 620R(2018) and have had no problem in getting agreed value cover via Footman James (broker) with Ageas acting as underwriter/insurer, for either car over the subsequent years of ownership. Secondly I don't understand the not paying agreed value in the case of a total loss (e.g the car is stolen, never recovered or beyond economic repair) If the agree value is stated in the Policy Schedule then my simple understanding is that the underwriter/insurer has accepted that value, hence the requirement of having to have an independent evaluation (Guy Munday etc.) to ratify the value of the car at commencement of the insurance period being covered. The only way I could see that the underwriter/insurer could get out of paying the agreed value for total loss is if the insurer could prove misrepresentation or withholding of "Material Facts" at the time the policy was taken out. Hopefully Carlie will be along to explain/correct any misunderstanding on my part (it's been a while since I was involved in the insurance world ) UPDATE:- Having just had a quick look at some of the Motor Policy Documentation on the MarkerStudy website I could only find references to market value, none for agreed value, which obviously could explain why that option is not apparently available

Just for further clarification of my earlier post, it's the clear plastic connection block is the one you are looking for/need to hook up to if it's present, which it certainly was with both my 2018 cars. If in doubt check with a multimeter and an assistant to press the brake pedal to confirm.

Look for a spare connector block, probably cabled tied with other parts of the loom to the frame between side of fuel tank and side skin, towards the RHS bottom rear of the chassis. Having fitted a 3rd light for 2 cars so far fortunately I haven't had to take the boot floor out!

I'll let you off then

Out of curiosity (I may overlooked something blindingly obvious in which case apologies in advance!) but if you already have the crutch strap what's not to stop you taking out both seats and trying a dummy fit using the passenger seat with its fixed rails before committing to buying some more?

Guess you need an infrared thermometer to test which value being displayed is closer to the truth to start with.

I stand to be corrected, wouldn't be the first time! , but I thought there were separate temp sensors, one for the ecu and one for the coolant gauge? My gauge incidentally corresponds well at the top end of the range but reads slightly under at the lower.

looks like a "jazzed up version " of the air box. My earlier Galaxy only has one single air box.

Another check would be to take a look at the state of the spark plugs for anything obvious.

I'd put money on the lambda sensor failing. Sorry I only know how to check lambda/TPS using Easimap plus cable What part of the world are you in? How about contacting your local area rep for finding someone local with the software?

Unfortunately as just starting to rain

Not scientific but..... on the basis I always find "road crud" on the back of my seats even when not using a half hood to me it seems the only explanation is there must always be some degree of air flow coming back into the cabin from the rear of the car. Also as others have mentioned you can get enough "wraparound" air flow in the cabin to coat the inside of the windscreen and mirror with crud as well. The only time I've noticed exhaust fumes was when the lambda sensor went bad and you could detect the "rich" smell, and that was with a rear exit exhaust. I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't some level of exhaust emissions always spilling back into the cabin given the Caterham "aerodynamics", it's just one doesn't notice/detect it #13 You definitely need earplugs/ear defenders with the half/full hood up as they accentuate the typical Caterham mechanical noises (though personally I use ear protection all the time)

Always good to check the car over before you go out! Beats the bobbin breaking. Ever happened to anybody else?

Screens off the car atm .... driving switched to winter/not getting wet mode! couple of bits of rubber between the mirror base and screen reasoning:- a. after trying a pair of convex mirrors, I decided I preferred the view perspective of a "normal" mirror for the drivers/overtaking side.and in doing so I found the drivers mirror needed repositioning slightly and by using the rubber saved me from having to drill any more holes! b. to fill the gap - curved screen/flat base of mirror Central mirror is held on by double sided Gorilla tape. It hasn't made a bid for freedom yet!

Use one, prefer it to the carbon version because you can see through it!

I beg to differ based on very recent experience. A lot will depend of whether the insurers motor engineer (assessor) believes any repair estimate is reasonable given the information they have to hand at the time.

First thing I did with my current car was bin all the clear lens and replaced with "normal" red/orange ones together with LED bulbs. They show your "intentions" far clearer IMO

According to the configurator just now 360 & 420 R pack still has limited slip diff ???

And here

It was fixed by a reputable tyre place, that I've used on a number of occasions for different cars over the years. I'd even taken a new tyre along as I'd assumed it wasn't repairable. I didn't question how it was repaired as I assume they know what they were doing. That was my old car, over three years ago, which by now has had at least two more owners, and one assumes some new tyres!