Jig
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Everything posted by Jig
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Williams are nearby - you could try them. https://www.williamsautomobiles.com/
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They drill them out at the factory apparently. I spent an hour on that one, opening it up a little by little until it fitted, not wanting to go too mad, but ended up drilling it completely to fit.
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I have exactly the same problem as the OP on my 310. Had a fiddle around and everything seems connected ok, but the DRE shift lights are not working. Keen to see if anyone finds an answer.
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I knocked my white inner off when assembling the first time. Drifted it out with a socket and then reassembled it no problem (well, it is fiddly).
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I think the IVA manual says that the wing needs to be level with the front edge of the wheel rim: http://www.itbear.co.uk:8080/images/Caterham/IMGP2070.JPG
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The good news is that this is one of the hardest bits of the whole build - it get's easier after this! I wrestled for days with the damn headlight wiring, destroying a number of grommets in the process.
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Check out polevolt: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Standard_Relay_Holder.html
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https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-products-metric-o-ring-selection-box-225-pcs/4312j
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I didn't want to drill my screen frame in case I changed my mind about the Racetech mirrors so I looked for another answer and found it: You want Racetech RTMPM (available from Demo Tweeks and Rally Design. These are pillar mounts that replace the end fitting that comes with the mirror, and appear to be designed for Caterhams. They come with an M5 set screw, just needs a few mm cutting off the length (I simply measured the original screw that I removed) and you are away. Look neat, as well, so for 15 quid, it's an easy choice.
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Great spot - so 'collar spacer' is the magic phrase. All seems to be one eBay vendor who has cleared a seatbelt factory! I'll contact him with my dimensions and see what he has available. Cheers.
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Thanks Jonathan I do have access to a lathe so I may end up making some spacers if I cannot buy anything off the shelf. Cheers, Jig.
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Thanks for the comments chaps. Anyone have a good supplier for the spacers?
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This must have been discussed before but I cannot find any threads. Is there a safe way to fit a harness whilst retaining the inertia reel seat belts? obviously the shoulder straps are ok, but the lap belts are a challenge. The inboard side appears to have a 2nd threaded hole (current metric SV chassis) - can I use this? The outer side only has a single threaded boss? Is it safe to use an eye bolt to secure the seatbelt and then clip the harness to it? i prefer to use standard seatbelts for road use which will be most of my driving but want the option. Only other way I can think of doing this is to physically bolt the harness in whenever I want to use it. A bit of a pain but I suppose I could do that.
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Thanks guys, perfect answer. Well, not the one I wanted, but it gets me sorted. I'm more than happy to make up wiring, but the simpler I can make it the better. @Jonathan - I have the diagram from the build manual but if you have something more detailed then I would be very interested!
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There is a spare red/white wire with a spade termination cable tied to the cigarette lighter feed under the LH dash of my 2016/2017 Sigma (marked RW89 in fig 211 of the Feb 2015c build manual). I was hoping it was a switched live but does not appear to have any voltage on it - anyone know what it is for? I want to wire a switched accessory socket under there. Obviously I can run my own feed, but was hoping to use what is there already. Cheers Jerry
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Mine has a cigarette lighter socket on the side of the fusebox cover in the passenger footwell. I have just ordered this which I will connect to a switched live feed, facing towards the passenger. There is plenty of room to install it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077XY276Y/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B077XY276Y&pd_rd_r=f0304718-5786-11e8-befb-bde8ffa61ecb&pd_rd_w=Fe0bS&pd_rd_wg=w3FZO&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=JPMYJBAHQ33WCXEAREH0&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=187bec3b-0822-4044-bbe9-441718232b3f&pf_rd_i=desktop I quite like the fact that it has a vokltage readout on it, too (if it works properly!)
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Thanks guys, I'll check into that.
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Yes, that sounds familiar.
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Apologies, I did search and could not find an answer to these questions. Which throttle cable is used on this engine? Is it the K series one? I would like a spare ready for Le Mans. Secondly, which model of Ford uses this base engine? I'm assuming something like a 2015 Focus? It's a lot easier on Euro's (33% off right now..) with a sample car to source fan belts etc.
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Interested in how you get on with your original problem. There is a 3 way connector behind the rev counter which is for a shift light apparently. Derek sent me the matching half and I connected my DRE, which powers up correctly but receives no signal. I haven't got around to troubleshooting it, whether the signal pin has just got a bad connection/crimp or whether the Caterham wiring is faulty in some way. (My 2017 310S has the old style rev counter by the way).
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I believe that it is a standard Ford part, for the Sigma engine, so the proper tool would be available from a Ford dealer.
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Decide how many rpm you want to use in your power band and use peak power as the centre. So if you want 3000rpm as a power band, and peak is 7500 then you would want first light at 6000 and last at 9000. This obviously assumes that your limit is above 9000 so move band downwards accordingly so that you stay in your limit. That then means that when racing, you always want at least the first light on and you change when last/flashing is hit in order to always stay near your peak power. I used to set my last light a few hundred below the rev limiter because otherwise I kept hitting the limit in the time it took me to react to the lights and change up.
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Sorry if I have missed this, but wondered if you would be at Silverstone, Doug? I'd love to see these for real.
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The engine will not run properly until the TPS is set up.This is a job done during the post build check and is not something that is easy to do yourself (I am told) and needs to be set very accurately. The official answer is therefore don't worry about it, they'll sort it out when it is in for PBC. Poor idling is absolutely a symptom of TPS maladjustment. I resorted to a small block of wood under the throttle pedal during the build.
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Hi mate - check my blog, I had the same problem. It fixed itself oddly, when I tried to ground the gauge manually and blew the fuse, once replaced it sprung into life. Fault was exactly as you describe. Caterham had no answer for me though, and suggested that they'd simply fix it at post build, so not sure there is an understood fault. As for the immobiliser point, mine does that all the time and I am in the habit of simply turning the key several times. I'll investigate the wiggling option when I start driving it. I'm sure I read somewhere that the fuel gauge doesn't work until you have put 20l or more into the tank initially to reset the sender (or something). I might have dreamed that though...
