Jig

Well done, mate. Great to see her on the road!

Thanks Jim, yes that is my dilema. Covering the mount could be an option. I've just looked at whether I would be able to reinstate the mount with a bracket riveted to the top and it looks feasible, so I could cut it off and then replace it as and when I come to sell. Once the boot cover is set over it, you would not be able to see the riveted plate. Just a thought!

I'm not using the CC hood or standard boot cover on my build, but have bought a half hood and matching low profile boot cover from SBFS. I have a couple of questions that I wanted to check with the combined wisdom of BC: There should be a popper base on the side of the car at the front of the boot cover below the hood stick mounting plate (between the rollover bar base and the rear wing). There are none fitted to mine, so I have to drill them in myself. Is this common and is there anything to be careful of? The vertical plates used to mount the hood sticks are surplus to requirements and are going to get in the way of the boot cover leading edge. On the SBFS website, the pictures show people slitting the cover to poke it through. I'm sorely tempted to grind the plate off and stick the front corner of the boot cover down (this will hide the area, so I can simply touch up with any paint I like). This is obviously irreversible - anyone else done this on a road car? Do the IVA guys ever moan about the edge of this plate sticking up? Keen to hear thoughts & opinions. Cheers Jig

Fantastic work,. well done. Mine has just had the thumbs up from Williams, so that is the PBC complete. Now to book the IVA - so if you get any hints from BaT then I'm listening!

That looks like a sweet curve - so linear. That will be superb to drive!

Good to hear, and I totally agree about the manual. It's a shame they are holding out so much for the new 'IKEA' style one which has been going on for well over a year now I think.

Yes, I have bent it in order to get the cable adjustment correct. This doesn't change the fact that the head is tiny and too far up the foot well.

The car isn't finished yet, so I haven't actually driven it so far, but I cannot see how I could heel and toe with the funny little throttle pedal which seems to sit too high (and too far up the footwell) relative to the brake pedal. I quite fancy a floor mounted pedal conversion, but wondered what you all thought and if there are any common mods?

The oil pressure sender is on the front LH side (I think that's what you meant?) and is a flat cable. It sits neatly along the engine mount arm once in place, and runs very tidily. I like your approach to the headlight wiring. I suspect I'd rewire mine if I ever upgrade the headlights which is a possibility, post IVA. Honestly, I'd like to get rid of the nasty little indicator pods. Shame no-one does a fully enclosed teardrop in carbon fibre! Keep up the good work!

Great work, mate. My fuel gauge isn't working (yet) either,so perhaps what you have heard is true.

Looking good, chap.

So, the oddest thing: I thought I'd give it one last look before taking Derek's advice and just starting her up. I decided to run a flying lead from the battery neg to the instruments to check for bad earthing. I clipped onto the mounting lug on the back of the gauge and got a spark, I also heard a fuse pop. Checked, and sure enough, the 7.5A instrument fuse had gone. I replaced it, and suddenly the pressure gauge sprung into life. The fuse definitely blew when I messed around with it, so unless this was some kind of brutal 'reset' then I am at a loss, but it is now working perfectly! Car started pretty easily and ran faultlessly, whilst I ran it up to temperature and checked the fan operation etc. No leaks, no odd noises. Happy day!!

... Green, Black and White/Green (rather than Green/White)? Yep. The filter was nice and full of oil too. Going to start it tomorrow as per Derek's instructions, which he has confirmed. He suggests they'll rectify the sender at the inspection - apparently it needs a special tool to remove.

I think that this sender generates a signal voltage. It is three wires, power, earth and signal. My test was to disconnect the sensor to let the signal float and then earth the signal wire and see if the gauge registered the difference. It did. That confirms to me that the wiring and gauge is functioning. It also rules out an earthing problem I think. I'll go and buzz the earths, though, to be sure. I haven't filled the oil filter, no. I'll see if it will come off easily. Advice from Derek is to ignore it and crack on!

Anybody got any experience of a kit build Sigma not registering oil pressure at first cranking? I'm waiting for some ideas from Derek, but thought I'd ask here. My pressure gauge does the usual little kick as it initialises, but there it stays whilst I crank the engine over for up to 40 seconds. Engine is full to the top of the dipstick (just over 4l from dry). I have had the connector off the sensor at the engine and verified that there is a good voltage across the pins for the green and black wires. The green/white pin floats to around 4.5v when disconnected and the gauge reads this towards the top of the range. I shorted the green/white and black (at the sensor connector) to ground the signal and the gauge dropped to zero. This gives me confidence that everything is working from engine to gauge so I should see something registering. I reconnected the connector to the sensor, ensuring that it mated well and tried again, but I get nothing. The needle does not move at all, as though the signal is grounded. Is it likely that the sensor is no good (or wrong type) from new or is there a reasonable possibility of something serious amiss in the engine?

You've nearly caught me up now Roy!

Good luck and let me know if you need any pictures etc as you go along - I'm halfway through my build now. Jerry

Englishmaninwales - Ruthin N Wales Offline Appropriate sized expanding metal wall fixing, with a slide hammer, apparently works for the needle roller type, but I've never tried it. The grease method works well on oilite bronze bearings in older Ford crankshafts. This is pretty much how I've done it in the past (on a BMW M40 engine). Loving the bread/newspaper option though!

Cool, thanks everyone. Now that I have the fixings and can attach stuff, I reckon I can start cutting the pipework for a good fit. Thanks again.

Thanks guys. @Julian: I have sent you a message with my email address. @Jim: I reckon I'll get you to talk me through the IVA process once I can see when I'll be finishing up, if that is ok? Jerry

Hi all I've given up trying to be independent - I'm building a 310 and the manual is gibberish where the pipework is concerned. I've looked over a number of blogs but I am still uncertain as to which pipe is which and where they run. Does anyone have a decent diagram and/or pictures they could share with me at all, please? Mine is obviously a recent Sigma with a heater. Cheers Jerry

My special nuts were also hiding in one of the random bags of assorted fastenings. I would never have found them if I hadn't found a picture of them: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/449-large_default/special-nut-12nyloc.jpg

Oh yes: https://jigthecat.tumblr.com/ Thanks Nigel, I will certainly be asking questions and hunting through the forum for answers. Camera is all charged up, kettle in the garage, what have I forgotten.....? Best I crack on with that decorating that Mrs B wants done first!

I have to share my excitement: my 310S kit is coming on Monday. Garage is ready, albeit extremely cold!

Phil, many thanks, mine arrived (just got back from hols, so didn't post earlier). They look great and I am sure when the car arrives they will look great on as well! Cheers, Jerry