Bare

Shox and springs work V much better when Vertical rather than lying down.. the greater the Angle off of Vertical the worse the problem.. (horizontal is a different animal as it's usually also rocker activated. and purpose designed) . Study the earlier 7 designs.. and note how over the years the shock/spring units have gotten to be lower and lower.. exactly the wrong direction IF performance was the intent. Makes one wonder about the claimed advantages of 'wide track' at least without a rocker arm setup.

Try a Fuego r17 or even 18i more or less the same Mech bits, those are newer so hopefully a bit easier to source Spring rates : Front..100lbs/inch Rear.. 72 lbs/inch From the Lotus Workshop Manual, and as you may have noticed the ride is not exactly 'plush'. Now that really makes one wonder why some are using Silly stiff rates.. in their 7's

Have heard tell repeatedly,, Here and elswhere that rear exiting Exhausts end up re circulating into the driver's area /nose.. Always seemed reasonable.. much like drivng back from the Lumberyard with a load not allowing the Hatch to close.. Cockpit unpleasantly fills with the Car's own exhaust. After many years of Exhaust exiting by my Left ear I'm motivated enough to finally do something about it. A colleague recently bought a one owner series 3, it has a rear exhaust fitted as OEM . It does NOT fill the cockpit with it's own exhaust.. contrary to what I have been led to believe..there is no exhaust smell whatsoever.. just like any other 'convertible' in actuall fact. Now my question is: why is his car exhibiting a 'Different Reality' than the many stories of ugly exhauist recirculation from a rear exiting exhaust ..Has someone been fibbing ?? :-) Or is there some unknown to me reason why his 7 contradicticts popular Story? His car's is approx 1" behind the left rear corner of the Body.. before the curve leading to the fender rear., he also does not bother to fit his Tonneau cover.. if that offers some explanation. Sole reason for this is I really do want to reroute my exhaust.. but 'doing it right' is a fairly involved effort, and I'd hate to discover in the end that my Friends' 7 is the Sole Anomally :-)

Dunno about Solid Rotors but I've managed to Warp more than a Couple of Vented Rotors..on my 'regular' cars tho.. Serious Measurable Run-out..No Fiction here ..this is Real and unfortunately all too easily repeatable :-) Skimming seemingly only Patches it.. It soon returns I've found.. fresh Rotors are the only Sure remedy. although possibly a Heat treatment might do the trick, just conjecture tho.. however new Rotors are 'usually' relatively inexpensive. After Many theories from Factory Mechs.. including the "Gotta use a torque wrench on the Wheel Nuts".. good advise but not the root cause I suspect. Finally Deduced that (in My case) it' was due to heavy brake Usage.. as in a rapid stop from Hi Way Speeds.. where some clever Civil Servant had opportunely placed a Traffic light, then keeping my foot on the brake while waiting.. this caused differential cooling on the Rotor(s).. and a slight warpage..evident as soon as the v next brake.. NOT keeping the pads firmly pressed against the Heated Rotor seemingly avoids this in my experiences. This technique.. or lack of it :-), has worked for some time now.. same Family car(s) same conditions.. worth a try if this is a genuine problem for others.

Drive the Car :-) warped Rotors are Not subtle.. gives a 'square wheel' pulsation.. unmistakeable.

Geeez.. that's quite impressive.. Hondas' K20 engine as fitted to a RSX only promises 230hp.. but then it passes planetary wide Emissions testing , can and does Idle smoothly ALL day long on a dead silent Muffler and has a 5 year! no questions asked.. Warrantee. But quite not as much power Might even actually be cheaper :-)

There were about 12 Xrti 's sold in North America and mercifully most if not all have long gone to the Crusher :-) Mazda RX7 IS a good available choice: Light , Strong and with LSD.. Disc brakes are Huge but essentiaslly Useless Being far too heavy (vented) and as we all know Handbrakes are rarely 'done well' onna disc brake car.. UNLESS they have a built in Drum Brake as well. Suggest Drum braked units as lighter. Also Torsen Diffs from a Miata 'R' type from the wreckers.. simply Bolt In.. Wheel track is approx 55".. using significant offset on the Rims, as the measured (Myself !) distance from wheel mounting face to face is approx 58" ! This can be an issue if unexpected. Not an adaptation Job for the feint of Heart.. but definitely a Robust well made unit, for almost no $$.

Years ago I had a Spitfire that 'lost' it's Voltage Regulator on a Holiday.. Damned thing caused the Battery to boil and the subsequently spilling acid to eat it's way through to my Shoe.. before it got sorted. Be carefull,Battery Acid ..really ..eats up Alloy bits like Panels.. I'd Start looking V Closely for Damages..

Bad enough you were Silly enough to drive inna Rain. Cable Wiper system comes from BMC days ..and mebe even earlier.. Crude but simple, these Gizmos have survivied in a LOT of cars for several (5!!) Decades now. Suspect an intrinsic flaw, likely a Lack of Grease in the Tube, Wheel boxes Moter etc... or even a V badly kinked outer tube. Only realistic recourse is to replace the offending bits and carefully reinstall paying attention to lube and fits... OR never again be so silly as to drive in the Rain.

You need 2 things: a Decent quality Wrench, purpose designed for Bleeder Nipples. AND Real penetrating oil.. Not.. WD40.

Well.. the 'castor adjustment' crude as it is is actually very small., and I suspect added to allow for chassis 'build errors' rather than adjustibility. 5 dgrees was the Designed Castor, the washers give Maybe a Half degree.. at best... Most production cars run significantly more. Don't sweat it.. all yer after is both sides the Same... more or less.

Relatively easy job.. Remove (slide off the Housing) the Gaiter from the Pinion end of the Rack exposing the toothed rack itself ..smear some decent quailty grease on the round back side and a bit on the gear teeth. A Tablespoon in total is more than enough. IF this dosen't alleviate the problem perhaps yer Bushing is 'messing up' (abnormal wear?)..try adjusting the preload on it via the Big Nut. But this is a V fiddly adjustment , it takes me at least 3 or 4 tries to get it right.. with a decent test drive between each try.. takes all afternoon usually... so don't attempt it unless yer prepared :-)

Mazda RX7 twin turbo.. approx 110 Kilos with both turbos :-).. as a ready to run assembly.

It will be a Lovely car.. and Lotsa Fun. I bought my first 7 in 1970.. a series 2 :-) Have noticed over the years that the Majority of purchasers Historically keep their cars aprox 2 years,and put on about 15k Kilometres. It IS fun but it's a pricey Toy and of not much (any?) practical value:-) Not trying to disuade in any way.. just be aware of what most others have done.

Be Wary.. "Split Boot" efforts are Notorious Bodges . They have proven to split open inopportunely.. with disasterous/expensive result if undectected... Just ask any experienced Mechanic for an Opinion on these things :-). I'm as Lazy as the Next Guy.. but some things are just 'too good to be true' Regular one piece Boots are inexpensive and relatively easy to fit.. once you know how. Simply not worth the risk to even think about using such susbstandard Bodges.

Awww ..C'mon.. an SV is hardly Huge.. it's a Whopping :-) 110mm (4 1/3") wider .. the main difference I noticed is the steering wheel is less against one's chest, giving Slightly less 'Chicken Arm' steering style... remember Chapman was just a Little man at 5' 7". (average 14 yr old?). so the Seven fit him well . The venerable Lotus Series 4 was of similar track /wheelbase as the SV.. and it was the best selling Lotus 7 of them all, despite the Dune Buggy styling.

I've been seriously studying them too.. seeing as my pesky Integra R type motor reverse rotates. Neighbour just bought a nice Turbo 2 RX7.. twin sequential turbos.. however that works.. for Beer money. Mazda (ford :-) are good because almost all parts interchange ie: Miata (MX3) Torsen Equipped Limited slip Differentials "fit ", RX7 rear ends.. Turbo RX7 trans boxes have earned a serious reuptation for durability, and the quicker/easier gearchange of a Miata can be easily bolted in. Duratecs also (reputedly) bolt onto both Mazda Boxes (RX & Miata). Axles are in the 4:1 range, Discs are Massive. Rotary units are Light, approx 250 lbs ready to run, these are smooth and reasonably powerfull.. when balanced 15k RPMS are possible (if Silly) while 8500 can be used for hours on end on an OEM unit. Internals are Billet!. Should note that the Rotary's exhaust exits on the Right side of the engine.. and it can be surprisingly /excessively (2 stroke thru a Megaphone is a fair Analogy) loud..so Exhaust design/fitment is Critical... Little esle is tho :-) Suggest doing 'Searches' on RX7's.. lotsa "go Faster" info out there.

Pushrod Suspension Mod.. so your suspension works properly cuz the shock angle is less than ideal/problematic with the Longer wishbones. Low angle springs produce odd rates with no linearity.. not even great for Boulevard Cruising... a pushrod setup eliminates the problem entirely and makes a V large handling improvement.. over 'narrow' track as well.

Just have to look see if the 'Business' end of the motor (flywheel) is on the right (usable for a 7 Rotation) or on the left. (reverse to your needs rotation) as with every other Honda engine prior to 2002. Be aware that the Honda's errant subsidiary: Rover somehow managed to degrade one of the more reliable power units of the 80's simply by opening the shipping crate and installing the Japanese made units into those excreable Stirling things :-).

My colleague just ( about 3 weeks ago) bought a one owner Series three (with the 84 hp engine no less :-).. It lived in the previous owners Carport since 1969! this provided a Roof only, no sides. It has NO rust whatsoever.. anywhere. You may be worrying about absolutely nothing at all.

Well.. I read the 'Forum' indicated.. but it contains nothing but Drivel from presumably a bunch of Kids who are likely not yet in possesion of a Driver's license , Or I could have missread and they are just 'Simple'. No info and no relevance, unfortunately

Sigh... Super7cars.com. Caterham 'Authorised' Hayabusa Caterham builders... they have a 'Bespoke' Mechanical reverser.. Beautifully made.. works as advertised. Ask em.. probably have more answers than you have questions :-).

Good Idea.. But No Cigar. IC's have to flow rather large amounts of air, the internal passageways are large and carefully designed, A radiator is simply tooTiny (internally) by comparison... the airflow would be low and unsatisfactory at best. Yer gonna have to get a Spearco,(or reasonable Facsimile) if you want actuall performance :-)

Mssr. Carmichael.. was correct.. Foolish to disregard the considered suggestions. Oil pressure switches operate instantly.. V few arguement possibilities on the worth of that function. What makes yer "Dash" so Sacrosanct... a light fitting install does not necessarily entail a Football size hole chewed into the thing by starving rodents... or do we have our eye Myopically fixated on Resale? :-) In the Very least install a ' T' fitting onna Block's oil sender Hole..retaining a Switch in there..as well as whatever gauge you choose to install. But dosen't even that mean an additional Dash hole :-)

What's the advantage of Sillycone Hoses? Basically None :-). But Hey! they come in pretty Colours.. and the Girrls Like 'em. In fairness tho they are a bit more duable.. how much more is an open question as in the last 2 decades i've not had a Single OEM 'Hose Failure.. whereas before they were a bi annual occurence. IF you must huy some.. at least try not to pay thru the Nose for 'em suggest : hosetechniques.com Fair prices and Huge supply.