Bare

the Mini Needs it :-) colleague has one of those things.. Bone Stock tho .. the performance is errrr.. "underwhelming" to say the least... and I used to race an 'S' back in '71,'72. . so I nurse an affection for anything Mini. I certainly don't envy anyone who has bought a 'New' mini... likely more reliable (what wouldn't be :-).. But thrilling?.. Not a hope. Lotsa babble, little substancen IMHO.

Dunno about where you've taken your car.. but mine gets it's mixture 'errr.. 'adjusted' for emmisions compliuance immediately prior to testing then readjusted back moments later :-) as an expected part of my Mech's service.. No big deal.. always took this service it for granted. Apparently all Mechs are not created equal.

Each and every Bearing has a # etched onto it 's side.. this will instantly identify it to a Bearing supplier.. Often Sourcing bearings from and industrial supply house will yield a significantly higher quality bearing.. they Ain't all the same.. for similar or often less Coin ..than an Auto parts source.

Lucas Coil?? if so..yr lfortunate it lived this long :-)

Putting IRS into a 7 chassis IS old territory.. Many.. have done this over the years. including Lotus back in Series 2 days. The Chassis has been PROVEN to be adaptible. Look around a bit...there is an entire (and surprisingly Large) subculture of 7 activity: Clones, Builders. Kit makers and DIY'ers.. Many . not unexpectedly, are Crap.. but some are V good indeed...an open mind could be educational :-) Amusing but Myopic arguements re IRS only being slightly better than Dedion... there are those who still carry on the same belief re Live axle vs Dedion Do agree that the 'New ' CRS car/suspension is rather a poor effort. and not worth emulating.. at least not when one is expending personal funds.. note that even a westfield has a decent IRS... in an even simpler chassis... wonder what they learned years ago?

NO.. the track inna Tr7 is significantly wider than that in a 7..Ergo it ain't the same ..Take a closer look at the MGB/Marina axle :-)

Used to do this all the time.. when I was younger and Penniless.. kept buying /driving 'Beaters' Worked perfectly everything came out spotless. No chemicals to strip paint or dissolve wiring insulation :-) But I used the Jet Spray wands at the local Car wash Emporiums. Not so sure about using one of the currently popular 1500Psi Pressure washers on or near electronic bits. Lower the pressure significantly and understand just what a mess Sloth could make.. Should be Fine :-)

Interesting techinque.. but unlike A chain onna Jag.. not of any significant advatage.. the Factory method of replacing a Cam belt is V straightforward.. and it's often 'Clever' to replace the Waterpump at the same time. .. rendering the Shadetree method simply inapprpriate. Besides Cam belts on any reasonable motor are at a minimum 60,000 Mile intervals... rather a long time on yr average 7 :-)

Sorry don't know the details of the Various Triumph variants.. there were a few :-) My interest was in the Axle ratios... there are several useable ones. Ital axle setup was an mixture of MGB, Marina and Triumph parts.. Last ditch rumage inna parts bin by BL.

Yes :-) ...Both are Triumph Parts and both use the Same PCD. .. TR7 is a source of ALL axle bits including different Ratios.

Interesting question.. dead O2 sensor will likely dump less Fuel into the cat than a new one It's purpose is to ensure there is enough unburned fuel and oxygen available for the Catalytic to Catalysise (burn, for us unwashed :-) the exhaust clean of the legally sanctioned substances. Cats are Tough! Even several consequetive tanksfull of Leaded can be run thru the things with small long term effects. Clogging is THE killer (along with Silicone but that's not a normal occurence) Suggest trying to look thru the thing before paying a large sum for a replacement. should see light thru it.. it looks like a miniature Honeycomb.. the degree of clogging is a good indicator of life left. O2 sensors ARE universal ..only differences in almost all variants is the # of wires for their built in preheaters and the connectors specific to each car's harness.. often the skill/ability to splice the wire connectors can save significant coin. G' Luck

Yup... the 'Digital' ones are inaccurate to 3 decimal places.V usefull if yr eysight has failed though. Tough to improve on a simple stupid, decently built mech gauge..

Catalytics are Surprisingly Tough.. One can even run Leaded fuel (a few tankfulls even) through one with no long term ill effects. A bit of Raw fuel.. 'dumped in' sporadically will not hurt it in the least. There are more than a few "old wives tales" re Catalytics still lurking about apparently

Hey! I just bought one yesterday.. Got tired of the Ratchet Cable type lift hanging from the Rafter setup.. The lift with a hydraulic ram and Wheels will make life much easier... I hope. Looked at renting but noticed that the rental fee x 2 equaled the purchase price of $120 at my local tool emporium. It folds up but is still bloody Huge.. will have to dismantle it between serious uses.

It' is possible that the Stub is damaged or Yikes! wiggling.. But not very likely. It's insertred into the Casting V tightly.. usually requiring a hydraulic press to remove it. .. not likely to just 'pop it off' in yr driveway :-) Possibly yr Hub is worn.. the Ali ones have been known to do that. Have you tried new Bearings (both inners and outers? these are Spitfire MkIV bits and actually quite inexpensive from the apprpriate sources.