smutly

Ltd Edition No 7 of 30 RoadSport Price just revised to £13,650 Ltd Edition RoadSport Pics: I have just revised the asking price. Factory built in 1996 as a Limited edition 1.4 Supersport. It has the original 7 of 30 plaque on the dashboard. As standard it had a 6 speed gearbox, SuperSport Engine, carbon fibre front cycle wings, carbon fibre rear wing protectors and leather seats. In 2003 in was completely rebuilt as a new car. The chassis was stripped back to bare metal by Arch, modified to include Watts linkage rear suspension and then re-bodied as a Superlight. Most parts were replaced as new including a complete engine from Rover, complete suspension front and rear, roof, doors, boot cover, bearings, lights and on and on. Since then the car has covered 8000 miles with no track days and no use in the rain save 2 occasions when I was caught in showers! The car is in fantastic condition from underside to inside. The specification is now extremely high: 140 Bhp Engine including lightened flywheel 6 Speed Gearbox Suretrack LSD Up rated Caterham 4 pot calliper front brakes with vented front discs Up rated master cylinder AP Racing Clutch Airfoil R500 upper and lower wishbones Adjustable suspension platforms all round Watts Linkage rear suspension Quick release Momo steering wheel Aluminium race type radiator Silicon hoses R500 Superlight split rim 13" wheels with Magnesium centres Avon CR500 tyres Caterham 4 Point Harnesses FIA Roll Bar Front ARB Rear Adjustable ARB High Amp Banner Caterham Battery with Custom Mount I have all receipts which total many thousands, all MOT certificates and all relevant documents. Many Spares are also available including the original Minilite style 14" wheels fitted with Avon Tyres This car will not disappoint I have owned and for 8 years of brilliant motoring. £14250

No 7 of 30 Price just revised to £13,650 Pics at: Ltd Edition SuperSport Pics Factory built in 1996 as a limited edition 1.4 Supersport. As standard it had a 6 speed gearbox, carbon fibre front cycle wings, carbon fibre rear wing protectors and leather seats. In 2003 in was completely rebuilt as a new car. The chassis was stripped back to bare metal by Arch, modified to include Watts linkage rear suspension and then re-bodied as a Superlight. Most parts were replaced as new including a complete engine from Rover, complete suspension front and rear, roof, doors, boot cover, bearings, lights and on and on. Since then the car has covered 8000 miles with no track days and no use in the rain save 2 occasions when I was caught in showers! The car is in fantastic condition from underside to inside. The specification is now extremely high: 140 Bhp Engine including lightened flywheel 6 Speed Gearbox Suretrack LSD Up rated Caterham 4 pot calliper front brakes with vented front discs Up rated master cylinder AP Racing Clutch Airfoil R500 upper and lower wishbones Adjustable suspension platforms all round Watts Linkage rear suspension Quick release Momo steering wheel Aluminium race type radiator Silicon hoses R500 Superlight split rim 13" wheels with Magnesium centres Avon CR500 tyres Caterham 4 Point Harnesses FIA Roll Bar Front ARB Rear Adjustable ARB High Amp Banner Caterham Battery with Custom Mount I have all receipts MOT certificates and all relevant documents. Many Spares are also available including the original Minilite style 14" wheels fitted with Avon Tyres This car will not disappoint I have owned and for 8 years of brilliant motoring. £14250 Edited by - Smutly on 7 May 2011 17:41:14

Just ordering the bits as my sender unit looks to be faulty! My car is a 96 but had a complete new EU3 engine (1400 SS) fitted 4 years ago. I'm ordering both M10 and M12 just to be sure, but is it definitely M10 x 1.0mm as there are 1.0mm, 1.25mm and 1.5mm available. Posting says M10 x 1.0mm but don't want my back up plan to fail!

My early 6 speed box leaks, but apparently this is normal, something do do with front oil seal? I was so paranoid that I had the top inspection plate modified to add a screw in plug. I made up a dipstick and now I can check the level easily and fill if I ever need to from a nice convenient position . Although over a couple of weeks I get a small (very small) puddle the level has not really gone down enough that I can measure. I've stopped being so paranoid now. Also it only really seems to happen when parked up after a run when its hot. Initial few drops all but stop if its left unused.

And my RC was 1617mm for CR500s. Averaged over 3 revolutions.

When I bought my Caterham I was handed over a load of spares. Amongst them are 4 springs and 2 Bilstein Dampers. They look like they have had little or no use. Can anyone identify them from the following: 2 Black springs with green painted ends (where the spring seats) 7.43” (189mm) lg 1.9” (48mm) ID 2.54” (64.5mm) OD 0.32” (8.1mm) Wire Dia 9 Coils 2 Black springs with red painted ends (where the spring seats) 9.5” (241mm) lg 1.93” (49mm) ID 2.64” (67mm) OD 0.36” (9.1mm) Wire Dia 8 Coils Damper Pt No: 6052169M000 My present Dampers are completely red and the rears are progressive type but seem quite soft so I thought I might experiment with these but I would like to know what I’m experimenting with! Any help would be much appreciated.

Anyone know if the front stub axle can be easily removed from the cast upright? I have a slight wheel bearing problem. After carefully adjusting the castellated nut I still get movement on the wheel when holding the top and bottom of the wheel and rocking. Not loads but enough for the MOT man to comment on last year. I even shaved material from the nut to enable it to get to the next split pin location without over tightening but to no avail. I replaced the bearing and still the same problem. I have taken it all apart and bought into work where I can get a better idea of what’s going on. So far I can’t see anything wrong so I thought I might bring the stub axel in and check that. I wondered if it was easier to remove just the shaft instead of having to remove the whole upright. Anyone know about removing the stub shaft or even better know what might be causing the bearing woes?

Downloaded - Many Thanks

I remember downloading a build manual from the Caterham site last year. I can't find the location on their site. Anyone know the address?

My top flange on the collector had sheared off so wasn't doing anything. The bottom flange has almost gone the same way. I thought I would try something different so I cut 4 slits in the collector tube that had the broken flange and put a large jubilee clip around this collector tube. Did the job brilliantly. I filled off the top flanges before doing this. I’m going to do this on the bottom flanged joint and perhaps on the others if necessary. I can arrange the screw on the jubilee clip so that it is all but hidden giving a reasonably neat finish. Of course this is the standard way of connecting exhausts!

Wings back on now. Left one missing fixing out and used 1 rivet close by the second missing. I'll bear in mind the alternative method for the rivnut fixings, cheers. All this came about because the previous owner had assembled the watts linkage completly wrong - yet it still worked! Gary from Freestyle pointed out the long link arm should be on the upper chassis fixing, mine was on the lower. When I went to correct this I discovered the whole thing was wrong on both sides. The bell crank had the offset on the wrong side and the short arm had the relief facing out! The drivers side long link arm had been fouling the caliper removing metal off the arm! So hopefully now all is as good as I can make it (A frame mount is lower type not upper mounting type) I should see some difference in the handling.

Anyone know where I can get old of a Clinch nut tool to put back the fasteners that I had to pull out of the body panel when removing the rear wing? 2 fixings just spun round leaving me no choice put to pull them out. As it's only 2 of the fixings I could replace them with rivets, plastic or metal but I thought I thought it would be better to do the job right.

Thanks guy's I'll borrow a tap from work and give it a go (carefully)

Can anyone advise what the thread size is in the chassis for the rear suspension front radius arm/watts linkage. I need to move my watts arm up from the lower to the upper mounting position and the thread looks like it has plently of paint in it. I thought I might tap it out but I'm unsure of the thread size. looks like the rear wings will have to come off to do this, so I want to make sure I'm all tooled up before I start!

Chris, Mine has a LSD but this was added more recently I believe. I didn't think these were standard when built. Mine has also had lots of other bits added!