Bare

the Mini Needs it :-) colleague has one of those things.. Bone Stock tho .. the performance is errrr.. "underwhelming" to say the least... and I used to race an 'S' back in '71,'72. . so I nurse an affection for anything Mini. I certainly don't envy anyone who has bought a 'New' mini... likely more reliable (what wouldn't be :-).. But thrilling?.. Not a hope. Lotsa babble, little substancen IMHO.

Dunno about where you've taken your car.. but mine gets it's mixture 'errr.. 'adjusted' for emmisions compliuance immediately prior to testing then readjusted back moments later :-) as an expected part of my Mech's service.. No big deal.. always took this service it for granted. Apparently all Mechs are not created equal.

Each and every Bearing has a # etched onto it 's side.. this will instantly identify it to a Bearing supplier.. Often Sourcing bearings from and industrial supply house will yield a significantly higher quality bearing.. they Ain't all the same.. for similar or often less Coin ..than an Auto parts source.

Lucas Coil?? if so..yr lfortunate it lived this long :-)

Putting IRS into a 7 chassis IS old territory.. Many.. have done this over the years. including Lotus back in Series 2 days. The Chassis has been PROVEN to be adaptible. Look around a bit...there is an entire (and surprisingly Large) subculture of 7 activity: Clones, Builders. Kit makers and DIY'ers.. Many . not unexpectedly, are Crap.. but some are V good indeed...an open mind could be educational :-) Amusing but Myopic arguements re IRS only being slightly better than Dedion... there are those who still carry on the same belief re Live axle vs Dedion Do agree that the 'New ' CRS car/suspension is rather a poor effort. and not worth emulating.. at least not when one is expending personal funds.. note that even a westfield has a decent IRS... in an even simpler chassis... wonder what they learned years ago?

NO.. the track inna Tr7 is significantly wider than that in a 7..Ergo it ain't the same ..Take a closer look at the MGB/Marina axle :-)

Used to do this all the time.. when I was younger and Penniless.. kept buying /driving 'Beaters' Worked perfectly everything came out spotless. No chemicals to strip paint or dissolve wiring insulation :-) But I used the Jet Spray wands at the local Car wash Emporiums. Not so sure about using one of the currently popular 1500Psi Pressure washers on or near electronic bits. Lower the pressure significantly and understand just what a mess Sloth could make.. Should be Fine :-)

Interesting techinque.. but unlike A chain onna Jag.. not of any significant advatage.. the Factory method of replacing a Cam belt is V straightforward.. and it's often 'Clever' to replace the Waterpump at the same time. .. rendering the Shadetree method simply inapprpriate. Besides Cam belts on any reasonable motor are at a minimum 60,000 Mile intervals... rather a long time on yr average 7 :-)

Sorry don't know the details of the Various Triumph variants.. there were a few :-) My interest was in the Axle ratios... there are several useable ones. Ital axle setup was an mixture of MGB, Marina and Triumph parts.. Last ditch rumage inna parts bin by BL.

Yes :-) ...Both are Triumph Parts and both use the Same PCD. .. TR7 is a source of ALL axle bits including different Ratios.

Interesting question.. dead O2 sensor will likely dump less Fuel into the cat than a new one It's purpose is to ensure there is enough unburned fuel and oxygen available for the Catalytic to Catalysise (burn, for us unwashed :-) the exhaust clean of the legally sanctioned substances. Cats are Tough! Even several consequetive tanksfull of Leaded can be run thru the things with small long term effects. Clogging is THE killer (along with Silicone but that's not a normal occurence) Suggest trying to look thru the thing before paying a large sum for a replacement. should see light thru it.. it looks like a miniature Honeycomb.. the degree of clogging is a good indicator of life left. O2 sensors ARE universal ..only differences in almost all variants is the # of wires for their built in preheaters and the connectors specific to each car's harness.. often the skill/ability to splice the wire connectors can save significant coin. G' Luck

Yup... the 'Digital' ones are inaccurate to 3 decimal places.V usefull if yr eysight has failed though. Tough to improve on a simple stupid, decently built mech gauge..

Catalytics are Surprisingly Tough.. One can even run Leaded fuel (a few tankfulls even) through one with no long term ill effects. A bit of Raw fuel.. 'dumped in' sporadically will not hurt it in the least. There are more than a few "old wives tales" re Catalytics still lurking about apparently

Hey! I just bought one yesterday.. Got tired of the Ratchet Cable type lift hanging from the Rafter setup.. The lift with a hydraulic ram and Wheels will make life much easier... I hope. Looked at renting but noticed that the rental fee x 2 equaled the purchase price of $120 at my local tool emporium. It folds up but is still bloody Huge.. will have to dismantle it between serious uses.

It' is possible that the Stub is damaged or Yikes! wiggling.. But not very likely. It's insertred into the Casting V tightly.. usually requiring a hydraulic press to remove it. .. not likely to just 'pop it off' in yr driveway :-) Possibly yr Hub is worn.. the Ali ones have been known to do that. Have you tried new Bearings (both inners and outers? these are Spitfire MkIV bits and actually quite inexpensive from the apprpriate sources.

The errrr.. 'adjustability' in the setup is basically for manufacturing tolerance ratherethan anything else. Castor angle is nominally at 5 deg in a 7 of any description.. using ALL the washers on one side will change this V little... and even IF it changed more than 1/2 a degree the effect might be more than difficult to notice in actual use. This is one of the minor variables in a suspension setup Castor basically affects straight line tracking.. (Pompous words for the ability to keep going inna straight line.. think shopping cart ).. Modern production cars run 7 to 9 degrees... if that's of any relevance

As a Digression ...remember reading that the early Jaguar C types had an A Arm axle locator.. Didn't actualy believe that Chapman invented this did You? Turns out their Arm was breaking with regularity.. Seems the Salisbury axle employed was strong enough to resist the forces imposed on it, so the A Arm suffered and ied. Seemingly not quite the case with the Triumph/Ford units inna 7. Jaguars quickly developed/deployed their IRS system in response to the problem. More useless info to clutter yr memory with :-)

Errrrr.. since when is it the actual steel tube that fails?? Whithout a blown Alcohol Fueler engine as fitted to a Drag car? Traditionally it's the poor overworked, unlubed and loose bolted UJ's that let go. High spec materials can do little against Sloth. Seems a lot of Time and $$ to re-invent the driveshaft .. when a few less beers inna Belly would acomplish similar weight savings :-)

Toyota Corrolla GTS Mid 80's to 90? type comes to mind.. disc brakes, LSD, Legendary Toyota durability. Problems are: 100mm Wheel bolt circle and 1 1/4" Propshaft offset to the right. Will still need the horrid piece of Boiler plate welded to it's backside to counteract the silly A Arm thing tho.. but that also applies to any axle tho.

perhaps try: Hytechexhaust.com... Arguably amoungst the V best systems available.. Prolly serious overkill on a K series Rover .. But it's always good to have a Reference Standard when shopping.

Errrr. 1975 Dastun 2000 Fairlady (datsun's MGB 'copy').. 2 litres 150 hp.. But I guess that dosen't count cuz it's 30 yrs old... Most any Porsche of similar vintage. Suspect the Crux of the problem is the linked to the Strombergs.. those things Made SU's seem wondefull.

Reasonably easy to find : Moly Grease is the usual stuff for prelubing cams.. Have some care with Silliycone Goo on or near an engine.. It's the signature of amateur work.. for reason ..it seals fine.. but it has happened (surprisingly often) where some of the stuff squeezes out of a joint into the engine innards.. invariably ending up clogging the oil system... so if you must .. use it sparingly :-)

And you paid How much for yr Car?? Change the OIL.. remember it's far more about the change intervals than the type of oil used ...10k intervals are errrr...a silly risk.. given the price of a few litres of oil.

What's this 7.5 K service nonsense?? Sister has a Subaru dealership... a rather large/prosperous one actually... and she adamantly claims trhere are NO reliability issues withe things. They are surpridingly Tough.. when not intentionally damaged by cretins. Frankly though I won't be buying one, even with 'Family' pricing.. they are just too Damned ugly and the Interiors can only be described as Horrid. However I'm also never going to Buy a VW product Again.. seemingly a common viewpoint given VW's current financial woes :-) Perhaps a nice Mazda 3 with the 160 hp 2.3 Duratec Engine might be tempting?

Aftermarket springs are (invariably) in my direct experiences often little more than oversold Junk... certainly on a Production car fitment. Manufacturers' engineers gop to a LOT of effort to make the suspension work ..as a Unit. Aftermarket setups, albeit with some notable but Pricey exceptions, get Far less skilled input. Either you replace ALL the springs AND fit appropriately/competently valved shocks (assuming such even exists).. or start looking in the bin for the OEM springs for replacement. The 'Free' bit will prove a surprisingly pricey adventure before it's over.