Bare

Rather than inserting yr Primary digit where it could get Hurt :-) Find a bit of Wooden Dowel (A stick if you will) Use Masking tape to increase it's diameter(S) to the correct /matching ones and you have a single use centering tool... Yes it works.

Using an Air compressor and a suitable fitting, pressurising the cylinder allows springs and seals to be replaced. Some have managed similar using a length of flexible (poly?) rope inserted thru the plug hole. Obviously the Valves cannot come out without removing the head :-)

Yes.. That's exactly what I'm suggesting.. This holds true on virtually any car engine.. Most OEM Iron manifolds are surprisingly well thought out.. and Iron when well done is a far better material than a Single wall Tube header.. on anything other than a Dedicated 'race' machine.. for heat retention, vibration, noise and resonance reasons :-) Factory Engineers would be considered Incompetent to produce an power reducing OEM manifold on a modern production machine.. although in years past this wasn't always true. Resonance creation encounters a problem when it meets an essentially solid obstruction: the Cat's Ceramic Matrix Perhaps IF the Rover Manifold is truly excreable (likely).. Then a Decent Header saddled with the OEM Cat. ''Might".. show a palpable improvement.. but I wouldn't count on it :-) Want power?? (and who doesn't) ..do the entire exhaust system or leave it alone.

IF... you run the OEM catalytic.. then it really dosen't matter much if you have a well designed header or an OEM Iron one.. the Cat is THE bottleneck powerwise. Possible to fit a larger hi flowing Cat to lessen the bottleneck.. Some :-)

One does not actually clean Plexi windows.. one 'Polishes' them.. Use some of yr ordinary Car Wax.. no need for 'specialised' (repackaged) wax.. and be amazed at the results.. Often it takes a couple or 3 application/buff procedures to restore an aged window. Persevere.. the result will be 'as new'

IF one's clever enough to retime the onset of Vtec.. then they are also clever enough to get their Gettodyne to squirt the appropriate fuel quantty.. seemingly even Teenagers know how to do this here. Remember Honda sold 850,000 cars in North America in '04 alone. To say these are 'plentifull' would be an understatement :-)

As humans we 'Adapt' rather easily. So it's possible that you may have adapted to a slight looseness in the steering gear, and your absence caused some forgetfulness. Suspect either someting fell off during the layover, or there is indeed some wear, either in the centre tooth of the rack , typical of a hi ratio rack (often eliminated by a V carefull tensioner adjustment) or perhaps your removable Wheel has loose fittings, or a column bush is loose/worn., your ties rod ends (all 4!) need inspection/attention Lotsa Possibilities.. good for at least a Day's entertainment.

Hows about KEEPING yr present transport and Buy a Kart?? 125cc Shifter Karts .. brand New and Frightengly Fast by the way. are approx $6000 in my part of the world. Really exciting/serious racing for the price of a competitive engine alone. Lotsa F1 drivers graduated from Karts, virtually none from 7's (at least in the last few decades;-) Just a thought.

It's also possible/easy to significantly lower the onset of Vtec.. .. does 4000 rpm sound better ?..It's also possible to attach a Vtec head to a previously non vtec engine :-) But these are a rather large cyl. head, at least inna DOHC variants.. making adaptation to a 7 'problematic'.. not to mention the reverse rotation of the earlier engines There are a few failsafes built... in like temperature .. just to keep cretins from bursting an otherwise reliable setup.

Most wet cell batteries I've seen either have a 'ring' in the Filler/cell Vent tube ( those things visible after the Pesky cap has been pried off :-).. OR.. the bottom of the tube itself is the Max fill line. Often specific instructions are part of the labelling.

Kitchen oven works Fine.. assuming yr bits fit in.. Temp in my experiences run about 150 to 200d F! Beauty of Plexiglass is: if you muck it up.. just reheat it and it regains it's original flat sheet shape.. so you can try again and again.

HONDA brand Coolant has emerged as one of the Best currently available.. something about no silcates /deposits and water pump life.. lots research avialable if one has little else to do :-).. Also carries some credibility, coming from the most prolific maker of alloy vehicle engines onna Planet... 3 million in '04 alone !

Series 2's Had a lot of issues.. errr.. built in. I owned one of those in the Late 60's :-) A colleague just recently bought a 'Pristine' (looks/drives like it's about 1 year old) 1 owner series 3 , .. for about half the price of a Cat kit :-) Rear axles DO crack as result of the Idiotic A frame Axle locator, and don't even have the Benefit of the Massive piece of Boiler Plate reinforcement the geniuses at Cat came up with as a "Fix". Series 2 and 3 Frames do Flex.. a lot actually. But to yr question: rear Tailights were from a Morris Minor. yup :-)

All vehilces with a propshaft have a designed in offset.. something to do with harmonics .. regardless, it's a universal setup, apparently with time proven reason. Lotsa info available..IF.. one wants to adequately research.

Drilling is 'Not Recomended' on Vented discs.. Real Rotors have Cast in holes... Solids could be OK drilled, don't forget the required chamfer.. But the question is WHY?? To save weight ?? some one actually believes that? In the very least Drilled rotors Do eat pads at a prodigious rate.. in case you didn't know :-)

Plain old Triumph Spitfire Bits..readily available from lotsa places.. but Buy them from the Cheapest Source... wherever that might be in your neighbourhood.

Hehhh.. I dunno If i would trust to anything 'Rover' if it came to that :-) Most engines, certainly any that I've ever worked on have no requirement to replace Flywheel Bolts as a matter of course. IF I was doing that..and I was suspicious of longevity, I'd Buy a set of ARP fasteners.. which would without doubt then be be the strongest part of that engine

Frankly it's rather hard to tell V much at all from those Photos.. They illustrate the damage but liitle of the offending/accused Bits. The Front Bush Tube lhowever ooks like it was Pre-split.. for some time actually..judging by the Rust along what looks like a Piece of ERW tubings' separeated Seam... Bad piece of tube perhaps? It seems the Braking loads initiated the destruction.. and would be consistent with the front bush tube damage/separation causing all the rest. Likely the thing coulda given way at any time.. but I suspect the Braking was a perhaps a bit more 'ernergetic' than alluded to :-). But that in no way excuses the failure, as one would assume the the metal bits could withstand any forces generated by the machine as a basic structural requirement. .. A bit of dubious Quality Control and Bad Luck ..combined?.

Awww.. Too Bad.. If my memory still serves.. Owlsley 'Sunshine' was V nice indeed.. prolly even a bit more fun than a Limited Slip Diff :-)

Hmmm... Wear on tire edges are Very often from A "toe alignment" problem..wear onna inner edges is typicallyl from Toe -in problems (It's counter intutitive:-) These can show significant wear after only hundreds of miles.. Camber problems also cause edge wear patterns.. BUT these are usually visible after 10's of thousands of miles. Decide which fits yr situation before you chasing the wrong problem.

Errrr.. you might think of 'replacing it ? Recent pricing has reduced these things to almost free pricing in my part of the world.. $50 is average cost of a new Toshiba DVD player. Which incidentally makes for a V good CD Audio player.. as in audibly superior to me Arcam 9.. which cost a wee bit more :-

Toyota 20v IS a V good engine.. likely Lots better than even a tweaked Mazda 3 type (duratec) also goes V nicely with it's Matched Toyota g'box.. why even think of dicking around with the Ford uint?

There are Chemical Tank reliner products available Pour the Goo in swirl it around the innards thouroughly and let cure.. 'Restorers' usethis extensively. Personally I'd think about springing for the $170(in my part of the world) for a genuine 'Race' Bladder type Fuel Cell.

Most OEM workshop Manuals give both Hot and Cold clearances.. and specifies what temp the engine must be below to be considered 'Cold'. Either method gives the correct lash at running temp.. If you've only got Cold clearance #'s then do it after a night's cool down.

New Car.. from Our Dutch friends.. kinda makes the New Cat seem a bit Lame. take a Peek http://www.donkervoort.info/gallery/Donkervoort-AutoRAI-2005