Ray Stewart

Hi Ian, SM25T & Wrightpayne Many thanks for all your help and although I have now found a replacement for the bleed screw it would probably be prudent to get an original. Mine is a steel radiator and I'll get in touch with Chris on Tuesday. Thanks again. Ray

Hi Wrightpayne Yes, it was made by Covrad in 1996. Although I couldn't get through to them I did find a company called J&J Radiators from another thread on BC but unfortunately they don't have any spares for radiators that old! Terry7 Thanks for the idea, I'll give it a try. You've also prompted me to check my local area guys who may have some spares. Thanks Ray

Hi The Bleed screw on my 1996 Crossflow radiator has broken off & I'm trying to source a replacement. I've had no luck contacting Redline and Caterham don't have any in stock. Does anyone know where else I could try or who produced the original radiators for 7's in 1996? I haven't yet tried to remove what's left of the screw still in the radiator! Many thanks Ray

Jerry I used some very high density foam that I got from a friend to wedge the tank at the back to stop it moving towards the back of the car. Unfortunately I don't know where he got it from. It was a bit like oasis, that stuff that's used for flower decoration but much denser and stronger. I'll ask him if he knows where he got it. Ray

Hi Jerry Just had another look at your posting and the link to my original post in 2005. I do now remember the problem I had with getting the tank to sit correctly. In the end I did turn the clamp round and also used some very dense foam at the back of the tank to stop it moving back and that seemed to work OK. Same tank still in the car. Ray

Hi Jerry Thanks for your e-mail. Now you have set me a challenge. I'm at the age where I can't remember what I had for breakfast this morning and you're asking me about changing my tank in 2005!! 😳 Seriously, looking at your photo's I think the tank you have is a lot different to mine. I have a crossflow so there are no vents in my tank. The only openings on my tank are the filler neck and the hole for the fuel gauge on top and at the bottom front (left hand side) the exit for the fuel hose. The pump is on the engine. I believe the vents are only required for injected engines. I'm glad you've been advised about the foam strips as I only had to change my tank because the vibrations had caused chafing and a subsequent leak. Sorry I probably haven't been much help but depending on your model you may have got the wrong tank. Suggest you go back to CC. Good luck Ray

Although my car is a bit older (1996) my rear fog stopped working and it seemed to be the switch. As I was fiddling with the switch with the rear fog lights turned on the fuse blew. I believe there was a problem with the connectors on the switch itself. I ended up cleaning up the connectors on the old switch and all seems OK. Didn't need the replacement switch! If the switches aren't used very often they seem to seize up!

Thanks again, I'll try pushing rather than pulling!!

Right, I thought that was what you meant. Are you sure they come out of the connector as they seem pretty tight so far? I'm not sure I can push then from the element side as there are only pins there. I've just had a go again and they seem to be hard-wired into the connector. All I seem to be doing is pulling the covering off the wire. Think I may have to call Caterham on Monday and see how they should come apart. Thanks again for your help and speedy responses.

Hi FTH Many thanks for the info. I finally got the indicator cowl front undone, what a pain that was! Unfortunately the other wire going to the indicator has now come adrift so I'm now going to have to replace the indicator assembly, which means I've got to remove the headlap completely. ☹️ I'm now wondering whether it will be easier to remove the wires from the loom end or the connectors in the headlamp unit itself! One of them must be able to be disconnected otherwise there would be no way of fitting the headlamps. Any ideas which may be easier? I wan't sure if the comments in your last posting referred to the headlamp unit or the loom end! Thanks again Ray

Thanks for the warning. I wasn't looking forward to having to touch the loom but wondered whether I could disconnect the wires from the headlamp and sidelight connecters so that I could remove the headlight bowl to get at the indicator cowl.

Hi FTH Many thanks for the info. I assume the bolts fit through a slot rather than a hole. I'll give this a try. Ray

Hi Steve Many thanks for the info. Unfortunately these 3 screws have nuts attached at the back of the cowling and these are rusted which means the screws just turn round. I can't get to the top one, hence the need to remove the whole headlamp unit so that I can turn the cowl upside down and get a small spanner in there to hold the nut. Any further ideas would be appreciated. Hopefully I'll get it done in time for Goodwood, assuming we're not covered in snow, if not definitely The Gribble on Wednesday. Ray

My offside front indicator has stopped working intermittently for some time. I was looking at this last night and found that one of the wires has become detached from the rear of the indicator housing ( black plastic unit under the headlamp). I can't see how I can remove the indicator unit to re-fix the wire. I've undone the nut on the headlamp but the screws on the front of the indicator unit are rusted and I can't remove them. Anyone know how I can remove the whole headlamp/indicator assembly? Do i need to remove the wires at the loom end or the headlamp end? Would love to have this done by the weekend to attend the Goodwood Breakfast Club! Many thanks Ray

Hi all Thanks again for your comments. I'll check the carbs aren't too tight but the problem has only just started and I haven't tightened the nuts on the carbs. Also the fuel line is still in same place. I've removed the thermostat to see if that has any effect by keeping the engine cooler but I'll have to put it back in before the cold weather, so not a permanent fix. Fuel pump is mechanical so can't check the flow without running car. May have to try changing the coil but it seems a shame to buy one if it's not the cause. Ray