BruceW

Building work at home forces sale of my much loved Caterham Titanium Silver Standard 1.6 k series 16,400 miles 5sp Standard diff 14" Minilites with black spokes/centres Heater Leather seats Momo wheel Tonneau/hood bag Home built but Caterham serviced at 12,000 miles Mechanically faultless (and always has been) Paintwork not perfect with usual array of Caterham stone chips! No track use MOT and tax to Feb 2010 I'm in N Yorks, can send you pics and any more details you need. £13000 ono brucewoodhouse@btinternet.com

I'll do a search about the new chassis too. I'm not really looking for the Duratec sort of level of peformance. Bruce

Thanks for the views so far. My K is not tuned, I'm used to that level of performance (asuming the cars weigh more or less the same). Tuning the K for more power is not really where my interest lies. Have Caterham altered anything else with the engine change? Suspensio set up/gearbox etc are all the same?

Considering changing my Seven. I have not spent much time on Blatchat for ages so have some basic questions, some of which I'll address at a test drive for sure but just want the forum opinion. Have a 7 year old home-built 1.6K Series Roadsport SV. No engine upgrades. Now approaching 16,000 miles and singing sweetly but I really fancy another build project as much as anything. Would probably go for a similar build with the new Sigma 1.6 125bhp. Questions. If I drove the new Sigma car back-to-back with my own what would I notice? Low end torque better with Ford? Noisier/quieter? Chalk and cheese or Pepsi vs Coca-Cola? Has much else changed since 2002-would the drive be different other than the engine? Is the Ford Sigma build as straightforward (I really enjoyed building the K despite being my first ever such project). Any other thoughts? ....and finally, what about the Sigma 150. Tuned 1.6-does this mean it is all top-end power or would I feel the benefits mid-range too? Bruce

Very helpful! I did search for 'wheel bearing change' but this did not get me much. Bruce

...I should add that I doscovered the old style cone is not available anymore after ordering a replacement. The new one is really too wobbly without any lower fixing. I actually just fitted one bracket/fastener to mine and it works just fine. Bruce

Ask Caterham to supply the two small brackets that you then rivet onto the bottom chassis rail. the new style cone then fits to this via Dzus fasteners.

I need to change a front wheel bearing on my 2002 Roadsport. Any tips before I start? I buiklt the car so I'm not all thumbs but first time I've done this job. bruce

Ivaan My car has no fixings on the lower chassis rail, the old cone just hooked over and rested on it. I hope all will be clear when the brackets arrive-or I'll follow the advice of leaving it unattached on the bottom edge

Thanks. Interesting! I wish the Caterham parts dept had been more helpful. Bruce

My 2002 SV has sufferred a cracked nose cone and the new one has arrived from Caterham. Unfortunately the method of fitting has changed (2004 on I think). My original one has two upper dzus fasteners but the lower lip just hooked over the transverse chassis member. This version is no longer made by Caterham and they have supplied the new style one which has fasteners top and bottom. They are also posting me two brackets to rivet to the chassis rail in order to adapt it and attach the lower fastners. It would be really helpful if anyone else has had to do this little conversion if they could let me know any tips or better still post some pics. A pic of the new style fitments themselves on a post 2004 car would be some help too. Cheers Bruce

That is what I thought but an Autotrader ad resulted in just one, half-hearted, interest! Hence the punt on here. Needles to say we bought another Honda.

Silver Met 3dr 4WD HRV, W reg 2000, 43k, one owner, FSH, MOT/Tax to July. VGC, utterly reliable. Offers around £5k N Yorks Bruce

Effectively it is as though the temp settings have been transposed, Fan cutting in at 80, engine at 90! Wierd.

Sorry, to explain. The top half of the rad gets hot as it warms up and then the fan cuts in. At this point the bottom of the rad, and bottom hose, is still cold. I understood this was the way the system worked during warm up, short-cutting the rad for a quick warm up until the engine thermostat 'opens' directing hot water around the entire radiator. What actually happens is that the fan temp sensor trips too early and the engine thermostat never gets a chance to open. If I disconnect the fan the engine thermostat is open within a short time and the whole radiator is circulating in no time. Sure I can connect a manual fan switch but it all worked automatically before so I'd like to get back to that. Bruce