RogerB

Back to consult with my learned friends. Referring to the rattle recorded in post 16 I now have the head off and all valves removed. They are however single valve springs and all appear in perfect condition. Everything else looks in good order with the top end and cylinder bores in good condition. I guess the next stage is to remove the sump, although the sound did appear to be coming from the top end, specifically No 4 exhaust manifold. Other Qs are: 1. Recommendations as to refitting valve stem collets as these are fiddly to remove with the aid of a magnetised screw driver. 2. There appears to be a spacer shim stuck to the underside of the cylinder head. However I assume this is just the MLS head gasket coming apart when the head was lifted.

Thanks Revilla for your super prompt response That all makes sense and gives me the confidence to proceed.

I have eventually got round to start removing the cylinder head to investigate the rattle. Following the instructions when I have the crankshaft pulley mark lined up with the safe mark on the timing cover the cam pulleys are one tooth out from the alignment marks. If I get the alignment marks together the locking tool won't insert between the cam pulleys and the safe mark on the pulley is about 10mm out from the crankshaft pulley mark. Expert advise much appreciated.

Thanks for this post which is pertinent to me as I changed from an alloy radiator to a copper cored one. However I didn't change from the OAT antifreeze. I don't suppose you know where the harm would occur by using the wrong type of antifreeze. Also is it just a case of flushing out with water when changing over to IAT ?

PM sent if still for sale.

Yep I,m interested. Blatmail sent.

Hi Guys, The investigation has come to halt due to other priorities as the car is off the road for the winter. So using air pressure in the cylinder do I need to make up a connection to screw into the plug hole ? I will update once I make some progress.

Thanks guys, looks like head off then ! And loan of valve spring compressor would be great, thanks David.

I have had my Caterham pals round and its been good to get some more ears on the noise. Its all pointing towards a broken valve spring on one of the No 4 exhaust valves. I'm going to attempt removing the springs without lifting the head as discussed here. Issues I see here are : How to get the string between the piston crown and valve head. I guess once the string is fed through the plug hole the engine is barred over until it pushes against the valve head. Retaining the valve timing by marking the belt against the pulley teeth and getting the timing marks on the bottom pulley and two cam pulleys in the correct positions. Gary I don't suppose you could post a photo of your spring compressor jig.

Thanks again for the helpful suggestions. I was coming down on the likelyhood of a broken valve spring, however I couldn't feel a difference when pushing down on the valve buckets. Also tried barring over with a screw driver on the piston crown which also seemed OK. I have a couple of Caterham friends coming around for a listen tomorrow. However I feel it's looking like a strip down.

I wonder if there is a way of identifying the spring of perhaps best to change the full set.

Ok thanks guys and that was also my line of thought. I don't suppose its possible to change a valve spring without removing the cyl head. I once recall a Cummins Service Engineer changing a valve spring on a K19 generator engine without lifting the head. It could well be double valve springs as its a high speck Steve Parker racing engine kicking out 190 BHP at 7200 RPM.. Unfortunately Steve Parker had passed away before I bought the car and I don't have any build spec for it. I will have to start reading my new K Series Engine book in ernest. Also Toms suggestion of turning over by hand with cam cover off sounds good. So that's me off to Knockhill with my pal as a passenger. The newly formed Leven Sports car Club have been running these all summer as a marketing event. Hopefully I'll get some hot laps in an Aston Martin or Zenos.. Then back to work on mine.

Oh I also forgot to mention: Mechanical tappets. No loss of power or other abnormal running. However and this may be a red herring - During my Croft track day I tried to accelerate in 2nd out of the hair pin and the engine just temporarily died. I thought I was going to have to coast onto the grass until I restarted, checked for oil pressure and temp which where fine so continued with no re-occurrence. It was at the end of this day that we noticed the sound which can't be heard when on the road. I also drove the 250 miles home to Scotland with no other abnormalities.

I have now recorded and posted U tube clip however I can't seem to paste the link in here.I have titled it as 'Caterham engine unusual sound' The lower pitch and lower frequency sound is normal and clears when clutch depressed. So I have now checked:- Starter motor - Run Engine with motor off. Alternator - Run engine with drive belt slack. Exhaust manifold - For tightness, leaks, contact with chassis/Body. (I once had a metallic sound on my Griffith 500 which had a blown manifold gasket - different to this sound though) Cam belt cover off - All tight and belt in good order. Listened with long screwdriver - Can only hear the usual sound of tappets (By the way I like the photo of the Marine Engineer, especially as I'm a retired Marine Engineer, although we never wore Steaming Bonnets in my time) Spark plugs - Looked good apart from a little sootie with pale brown tips (Running a little rich I guess) Distributor - So far unable to loosen one of the distributor cap screws as the column on top of the bell housing dry sump tank restricts access with my screwdriver.

Thanks for such prompt responses. Some of the suggestions I have covered. I will investigate other suggestions and see if I can upload a U tube recording. The sound occurs hot or cold however does seem to reduce when revs increased offload. I'd love a quick and easy fix that would get me to tomorrows track day at Knockhill !

Further to the recent thread on 'K Series Let Go', which I have just read with increasing levels of anxiety, my 1.6 K series engine has developed an unusual noise from the exhaust side during the Croft Trackday. I thought I had cured this by the simple expedient of removing the heat shield which I'd wrapped round the starter motor. Flushed with success I took the car round to my pals who had also witnessed this noise at Croft. We both agreed it had gone. Sadly a couple of weeks later I started up to check her out for my last track day of the season at Knockhill to find the noise has returned. I then removed the starter motor and bump started down the drive - noise still present. I've had the cam cover off and spark plugs out - nothing untoward there. My best description is it sounds like marbles bouncing on a tin tray coming from the exhaust side of the cam box. I have just received a copy of Rover K Series, Maintenace, Repair and Modification by Iain Ayre and Rob Hawkins. However it would be good to get the opinion of our K Series experts before I go any deeper. Roger.

Has anyone managed to squeeze an SV onto a Brian James clubman. I see one advertised with a bed width of 5'7'' which is the distance to the outside of my rear tyres. I have 7" rear wheels with 13/205/60 tyres. Failing this what would be a suitable trailer my SV.

Hi Russ, Mail sent. Roger.

I'm looking for a reasonably priced trailer for my SV. Preferably in Scotland or North of England.

Will these fit my SV with De Dion axle ?. My current tyres are 185/60R 13 front & 205/60R 13 rear, so slightly reduced ride height.

Yes I ditched my old AO48's, they where only good for doing doughnuts.

My new insurance has asked me for the build spec (Including Modifications) to the car to include track days. My car has a race built 1.6 k Series built by Steve Parker Racing (Deceased) kicking out 190 BHP at 7200 RPM. So clearly modified. A fellow club member has suggested I say it’s built to R400 spec (Nearest equivalent) can anyone advise what this would be? I believe it’s so they can see what I replace it with incase of a claim.

Tom I have an unused pair for a K series if you still require them. However I'm not home until 27 March. Same price as the ones you sold. Roger.

Jonathon, I don't suppose you have a wiring diagram for a K series engined car. Roger.

That’s a good price. The best I could find for those size rears was mytyres at £103 last September, however I think they are more now. That’s not fitted! Roger.