RogerB
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Everything posted by RogerB
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Attempting to balance the T.B.s according to the Minister guide & there is an imbalance between No 1 & the other cylinders. 1 being at 7kg/hr and the rest at 6. As there is only a means to adjust between the two pairs any suggestions how this can be resolved.
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PM sent. -
That's a shame as its just what I'm looking for. I wish I had seen this a week ago as I was passing through Kent on my way back to Scotland.
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Yes that could well be the case however it could have been an earlier bearing that has spun in the casing as this one looks in good shape. Is there a method of removing the bearing without dismantling the gearbox and using a bearing puller. I have tried by removing the inner circlip and then prising the bearing along the shaft with screwdrivers under the outer circlip. Clearly the bearing is an interference fit on the shaft as it wont move this way and also could be problematic refitting. What I'm hoping to do is refit the bearing in the gearbox with loctite bearing fit to take up the clearance using feeler guages to centralise in the housing.
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Only 6k on the car however its a Q plate as not a new box or engine. On further investigation after removing the sleeve to uncover the input bearing most of the play is a clearance between the outer race and the housing in the casing. I'm considering refitting this with some loctite bearing fit to take up this clearance.
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Thanks guys and I guess it's worth doing all three seals whilst it's out.
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Is it normal to have a lot of play on the gearbox input shaft. I'm measuring about 1mm of vertical movement. I'm investigating a loss of gear oil which is coming out of the bell housing. One gearbox specialist has suggested it would be coming from the selector shaft which protrudes into the bell housing as there is no gasket fitted between the gearbox and bell housing, although it has a black sealant all over the joint face.
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Does anyone use a BJ for their SV. The A4 load bed is 1.7 m X 3.3m. My car is 1.7 X 3.35. So it looks tight!
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Cheers Richard. That's what I'm seeing.
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Would I be correct in saying the black and white wire is the speed signal to the tachometer on my K series?
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Gates belt ordered from EBay. Thanks.
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Thanks mine has the code 3KR763 DOE. And has has 3 Ribs and two grooves and measures 780 mm around the outside circumference.
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My K series scavenge pump has a narrow (10.8 mm wide) two grooved V belt. Can anyone recommend a supplier as my local auto shop has failed.l and I can't find online.
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Screwdiver in the flywheel and breaker bar worked for me undoing. However retorqing is turning in the opposite direction. Can this be achieved without the special locking tool and the engine in the car? Edit- OK I've done it with the car in gear and brakes on. As there is some wind up in the transmission as the bolt is torqued up I turned the engine back a little from the safe position so that the safe marks lined up when the full torque was applied.
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Any suggestions for a supplier of 1"/25mm nominal bore suction hose for my dry sump scavenge pump. The rubber hose I'm removing looks like it has suffered from the oil heat as it is cracked IWO the spiral reinforcing wire.
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Having reset my valve clearances by grinding the shims down on an oil stone would it be a good idea to re-case harden the shims again. I was taught how to case harden steel many years ago as an apprentice by heating until cherry red then submerging in carbon powder. I cant find any examples of this method on the internet. Would this method be appropriate for the valve shims.
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Ok thanks guys I've sent Dave an Email.
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Any suggestions who to source a head gasket set for my engine from. My local auto shop is having difficulty identifying as I don't see an engine serial number.Also Caterham Spares page says not in stock.
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I take your point Gary and I guess fitting verniers is a thought.
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Afraid so, much egg in face. Of course I won't know until the he engine is back together. But that has to be the source. It's just a case of finding the one person who had the same problem. Thanks again to you and Mankee Cheng.
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Spot on, the lamda bung hidden under the heat wrap. Thanks so much for all the help.
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Mechanical lifters I'm afraid chaps. As Malcolm said the noise was clearest on No 4 exhaust manifold. And all pointed to a broken valve spring. I was poking around the manifold to see if it was something silly with that last night, but nothing. I'm now considering taking the engine out to look in the bell housing. Is this feasable with the head off? And complete with gearbox or split at the bell housing which has the dry sump saddle tank.
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Cam lobes are unmarked, cam followers look good with just some concentric circles mostly towards the centre ( I guess these rotate in their guides) Liner bores look good still with visible crosshatching . There has always been a lower frequency rattle from the clutch which disappears with the clutch depressed. I can't see much down the clutch arm opening. However the arm does rattle about in all directions. The higher frequency sound remains with the arm held steady.
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Spring free lengths range from 40 mm to 40.7 and these two pushed together reduced to 30.7 and 40.3. Unfortunately the Haynes manual just says to compare this to a new spring. Also I'm not sure if mine will be standard as it pushes out 190 BHP On the rollers. However there doesn't seem to be much discrepancy there. I don't think it's pinking as I only hear it with the car stopped at tickover and with increasing the revs off load. I used to get pinking in my TR6 many years ago and that was quite different.
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Thanks again, all good stuff. However any thoughts on what I can investigate further whilst opened up. Grasping at straws. I'm going to measure the comparative length of the valve springs and under compression with two pushing together in a vice.
